SOURCE: 99 Mazda 626 thermostat replacement
Sure, but you have to be able to handle the contents of the coolant system (roughly 2 gallons) and be prepared to refill it with fresh coolant. To replace it, drain the cooling system first. Remove the top radiator hose from the thermostat housing at the top of the engine. Remove the bolts holding the housing to the engine and then pull the housing up. It may be stuck and you will need to pry it up gently. Do not use a screwdriver under the housing to pry it as you will gouge the metal and cause a leak later. Often a few soft taps from a rubber mallet will loosen it. Note how the thermostat spring is set in the housing as that is the way the new one will go. You will need to remove all of the old gasket material and avoid letting it get dropped into the engine opening. I stuff a shop towel in the opening before I start scraping with a plastic scraper -again this avoids damaging the soft aluminum. Once the old stuff is out, put in the new gasket, put the thermostat in (you will have already bought it and have it on hand) cinch down the bolts to be snug but not overly tight as they can strip easily. Replace the hose (maybe with a new one since you've done the hard part?) and then refill the cooling system and test run to look for leaks. You will need to get the engine up to normal temp to allow the thermostat to begin working. Might as well change all radiator hoses if they are more than 3 years old at this point. Otherwise you will be draining the coolant system again to do it later.
Have fun with it.
SOURCE: engine light on 2002 mazda protege is on even after changing o2
Try cleaning the Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor. My 2002 Protege check engine light came on and it started stalling at stoplights if I didn't keep the engine revved a little. Manager at AutoZone checked the computer code for the light (P0171?), and it said it was running lean. He suggested I try the MAF sensor cleaner they have ($6.99) rather than replacing the 02 sensor, etc.; it made a *significant* difference. (I think I need to do it again to get it totally cleaned out, but the can is for at least 4 cleanings.) The MAF sensor is the large component that air goes through right after the air filter. If you don't have the repair manual for the car (search online for PDF's), you search for the part online to see what it looks like. Mainly, it's a tube about 4" across with some small wire things inside. The cleaner can said it was a 10 minute job; mine took 20 minutes, but only because the tube leading from the MAF sensor to whatever is next (a kind of bent elbow tube, with a couple of accordian-style ripples) tore, and I had to duct-tape that up to seal it. (Still haven't gotten that replaced - found them online for ~$40. Maybe this weekend...)
SOURCE: 91 mazda 626 erractic idle surge when engine is cold
My '91 626 did the same thing. I tested the throttle position sensor, and it was good so that wasn't it. The other likely culprit is the Idle Speed Control valve, or Idle Air Control valve, which is a $500 part new (more than I paid for the whole car). I pulled one off a 626 at the salvage yard and got it for 3 bucks, put it on (it's an easy DIY, just 4 philips screws holding it to the intake manifold), however I can't be sure that solved the problem, since I haven't run the car much since then. It would seem the most likely cause, tho, and a cheap fix if you go used. Other possibilities: O2 sensor or Mass Air Flow sensor?
SOURCE: how can i fix my mazda 626 transmission range
That is right I was haveing the same problem with my 99 mazda 626 with 139,000 miles. It started shifting crazy. Come to find out that alot of the mechanics wanted me to think my tranny was on its way out! But I showed them different. It was the transmission range sensor switch. It cost like $40 at advance auto parts. I tried to clean the original one but the problem came back. So I replaced the swich and the problem is gone! Also they dont call it a transmission range sensor in the parts stores, Its called a Neutral saftey switch! Same thing, but different prices at the dealer and parts stores. The dealer wants $70 dollars for the part!
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