I can get the wrench on the filter but I don't have room to turn the wrench. The handle is hitting the exhaust manifold, engine block, radiator hose or electric fan shroud. I'm trying from the top facing the filter. I don't see where there is room for my hand or wrench coming in from underneath. It almost looks like you have to loosen and move the exhaust manifold but that can't be right. I'm using a standard filter wrench purchased from auto zone. Any help would be very much appreciated....Barry
no there is not really a downside dealers are good it doesn't really matter who does it but lexus is more familiar with lexus vehicles than toyota because they specialize in it but something like that is simple .
according to the manual i have... it has three.... one in the exhaust manifold.... and two in the exhaust pipe..... slightly vauge on the exact location of the last two sensors... but looks like it is after the catylitic converter.
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Remove the four front skid-plate bolts holding the front skid plate, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the skid plate.
Pull the plastic splash shield away from the vehicle, loosening the retaining clips. Remove the splash shield.
Place an oil drain container under the oil pan. Loosen the drain fitting with a wrench until oil drains from the pan. When oil is done draining, tighten the drain fitting.
Disconnect the electrical connections running to the starter motor. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts with a ratchet and socket, then remove the starter motor.
Remove the oxygen sensor socket from the exhaust pipe, using a wrench.
Remove the exhaust manifold bolts where the exhaust meets the manifold on both sides, using a ratchet and socket
Place an jack under the transmission to support it. Remove the pressure on the transmission crossmember.
Remove the bolts that hold the transmission crossmember in place, using a ratchet and socket. Then remove the crossmember. Place a jack stand under the transmission to keep the transmission from falling off the jack if hit. Once removed, the exhaust will hang down, allowing enough room to remove the oil pan.
Disconnect the oil level sensor and the nut retaining the transmission cooling lines, using a wrench.
Remove the oil pan bolts with a ratchet and socket, then remove the oil pan and gasket.
Clean the mounting surfaces of the new oil pan and engine block. Make sure what ever you use to clean the surfaces dosn't gouge the metal.
Place a coat of RTV (gasket) sealer on the engine block where the pan will meet the rear main cap.
Place the new gasket on the pan and push the new oil pan into place. Finger tighten the oil pan mounting bolts to hold it in place. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench to 18 ft-lbs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS! Doing so will cause the gasket to deform and create leaks!
Connect the oil level sensor and the nut retaining the transmission cooling lines, using a wrench.
Place the exhaust back into position and replace the transmission crossmember bolts and crossmember with a ratchet and socket.
Remove the jack supporting the transmission.
Connect the exhaust back to both sides of the manifold, tightening the bolts with a torque wrench to 20 ft-lbs.
Attach the oxygen sensor socket to the exhaust pipe with a wrench.
Replace the starter motor by installing the starter motor mounting bolts with a ratchet and socket. Connect the electrical connections to the starter motor that were disconnected during removal.
Push the retaining clips on the plastic splash shield into the appropriate retaining clip holes.
Replace the front skid plate by replacing the four front skid plate bolts with a ratchet and socket.
Fill the engine with 5 quarts of oil. Make sure to check the level on the dipstick to find the exact level when filling.
Just the filter: You need a filter wrench that fits your size oil filter. There are 3 or 4 different sizes, so buy the wrench when you buy the new filter to get the right size. Unscrew the old filter. Use the wrench just to loosen it and then you can use your hand to run it off. Have a drain pan to catch the inevitable drips and spills, and to lay the old filter in.` Use a rag and clean the block where the filter's rubber gasket mates to the block. Make sure the old filter's gasket came off with the old filter and is not still on the engine. Where the filter goes on you should see only clean shiny metal. Before you start the new filter on, it is very important to put clean oil on the rubber gasket on the filter's base. Just dip your finger in oil and run it all around the rubber gasket-if you don't do this it will surely leak there. Now start the filter onto the threaded stud -the mounting stud for the filter-and turn it on down until the rubber gasket is touching the shiny metal base ring on the engine block. Now with only your hands, and not the fil;ter wrench, you need to turn the filter another 3/4 of a turn so it will seal tightly. If you get it half a turn and it gets tight, just squeeze a little harder=get as close to 3/4 of a turn as you can. You are done. Pat yourself (wipe your hands clean first.). When oil is put in and car is started, check for leaks at the filter. Good luck.
Not much room to work there, eh? On GM cars, there's a procedure called "rotating the engine forward". It tethers the engine in a forward-leaning position so you can work on the backside, gives you a few inches more to reach back there.
On the radiator support is one or two "dog-bone" braces that attach to top of engine. Remove the long bolt from both braces (15mm wrench or socket on the bolt and nut). On one of the dog-bones is a hole on the underside, see it? You have to lever or pry the engine forward, and fit the long bolt you removed back into that same slot, but with the hole in the dog-bone there where the bolt goes through the hole when it is re-inserted. This pulls the top of engine over towards the radiator by 2 or 3 inches. That's all you get to work on the backside, but it usually suffices. Remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifolds, and the bolts or nuts for the exhaust manifold, any other obstructions (the O2 sensor connector, for one), and pull the manifold off. Clean gasket surfaces, place new gasket, and re-install. Good luck.
It is quite easy but you need a few basic tools first. You will need a plastic or rubber tray with a spout to set under the engine to catch the oil. Soft plastic or rubber is best. The cheap hard plastic ones break too easy. You will also need a filter wrench. There are an assortment of these but the best is one that is adjustable to fit different filters. I prefer one that has a steel band that tightens when you pull the handle but there is also a fabric one that twists that is also good. They both tighten as you turn so if the filter is stubborn the wrench won't slip. A basic combination wrench set should handle the oil drain plug. Check with the parts counter guy but I think your engine will use metric wrenchs. He could also be able to tell you size for the drain plug. If the wrench set doesn't come with that size in it then the wrench you need can be bought separately. You should also have a funnel to make adding oil a lot easier. You also should have some rags on hand and something to soak up spills.
Before you crawl under the truck, block the wheels just in case (a very good habit that could save your life someday). Bring your pan and wrenchs. The oil plug is on the bottom of the oil pan usually on the driver's side. Set the pan under it and loosen the plug. Turn it to the left so the handle is going clockwise. It will probably need a sharp snap to loosen. When loose it should turn out by hand. It will have a washer, usually plastic. Don't lose this, it has to go back on. Let the oil drail into the pan for a few minutes and then put the plug back in and tighten ( handle to the right). Slip the filter wrench up the filter from the bottom and loosen it (turn left). Have a rag handy because oil will drip as soon as it's loose. Spin it off by hand and put it in the drain pan.
Take the new filter and put a thin coat of oil on the rubber gasket BEFORE you spin it back on. This will make removal so much easier. Once it stops spinning on then give it about 3/4 or 1 turn by hand. NEVER use a filter wrench to tighten the oil filter. Double check your drain plug and then add your oil in the top of the engine. Add oil until the dipstick reads full. DO NOT overfill. Start the engine and let it run for a minute or so. The oil light will be flashing for some of this time but should go out fairly quickly. Let the truck sit for a few minutes and check the oil dipstick again. The level will be down because the filter has to fill so top it up. Restart the engine and while it's running get under under the truck and check for leaks. ALWAYS do this. If you see any drips then tighten the plug or filter some more, but just until they stop leaking. Take a rag with you to wipe off so you can tell when the leaking stops. Recheck the oil level and you are done except cleanup. Pour the old oil into a plastic container. Wipe out the drain pan with some rags and put them and the filter in a plastic bag. Clean up your spills and put that mes in the plastic bag too. If your area has regulations about oil disposal then do it that way. Otherwise you can prbably get your local service station to take it off your hands. Hope this helps.
New gaskets, do it yourself job, easiest way pick up a Haynes book on your vehicle. Slight power increase can be changing your oil to Amsoil synthetic, but make sure your vehicle can handle it first and also remember don't use normal oil filters use a synthetic one of course. Also do it yourself to get to know your vehicle more and on how it works, you may get more ideas.
Oil filter on the 3.1 liter engine on the 2004 Grand Am is located on the engine, just below the exhaust manifold on the radiator side. To remove it, your going to have to jack the front up off the ground to give you room to get to it. Once your under the car, you'll see the oil filter just under the exhaust manifold attached to the engine block.
Hi! Here are some guides on removing and replacing the exhaust gasket:
- You may need a 12mm and 14mm closed and opened wrench
- Make sure that the engine and exhaust is cooled down before performing the procedure to prevent injuries.
- The exhaust manifold may have a cover, please remove it using the wrench
- Once opened, remove the nuts of the exhaust manifold
- Support the exhaust before pulling it out for it may hit the ground
- Place the new exhaust gasket in place
- PUt the exhaust manifold and tighten the nuts evenly
Hope this helps and good luck!
shut down the engine for atleast 30 minutes to cool,the starter motor was located under beneath the engine,the pinion driver was coincide to flywheel,if you want replace starter motor,disconnect starter regulator cable, loosen two bolt on the engine starter motor holder,try to swicth starter motor on a free way that could go out on mounting space,the exhaust manifold mostly is behind the way of starter motor if hard to pull out,if necessary disconnect exhaust manifold replace exhaust manifold gasket,distortion on manifold gasket may happen after removing manifold
. pull out starter motor and replace a new one, put back also exhaust manifold if you disconnect it.
set fender covers on each fender to prevent paint damage
select the correct size open end box end wrench or ratchet, socket and extension. This procedure is much easier using the ratchet, socket and extension. Use your wrench to remove all of the manifold mount bolts. The manifold will now be free enough to access the gasket behind it
remove the old gasket using your putty knife. The gasket should come of mostly intact. Use your putty knife to remove any gasket material that remains on the engine block or the manifold. Any gasket material left on the mounting surfaces will cause leaks that inhibit engine performance
coat the new gasket on both sides with a light coat of anti-seize compound. Put the new gasket in place against the block mounting surface. The anti-seize compound will hold the new gasket in place and prevent the gasket from sticking to the mounting surface, making future repairs easier.
push the manifold in against the new gasket and the block. coat the threads of your manifold bolts with a light coat of anti-seize compound. This will protect the threads on the bolt and the mounting surface. Start all manifold bolts by hand to ensure that the manifold is positioned evenly against the block. Be sure that the gasket remains lined up with the mounting holes. If the gasket slips out of position it will leak.
use your wrench or a torque wrench if required by the service manual to tighten all manifold bolts. Start the engine and check for any leaks. no leaks means you are done.
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