When I back out of my parking spot I have to turn the wheel rather sharply. when I get about all the way out, I hear a clank. I straighten the wheel and pull forward and it clanks again, like it's resetting back. Is this a CV boot/joint problem?
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Re: 2006 escape clanks when backing up
Cv axles normally click repetedly when moving ,doesn't sound like an axle,more like a motor mount or brake calpier .If you put your foot on the brake with the hood open ,put the truck in reverse and put a load on it and then in drive and load it you will be able to see the engine rock excessivly if a mount is bad.
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Could be a front end velocity or universal joint. turn the wheel sharp and jack the vehicle then rotate it forward and back while looking at the front axle and drive shaft. It should turn freely and shouldnt hear any noise or see any movement other than it rotating. Let the vehicle down, turn it sharply the other way and do the same thing, let it down and turn the wheel straight and try it again. Do this with both sides. Physically try to move the drive shaft and axle by hand, up and down, side to side... There should VERY little movement if any at all and you shouldnt hear a noise at all.
Sounds like the strut spring may be turning within its mounting brackets when the wheel assembly is turning. If so it will make different kinds of noise when it turns. This usually occurs when the spring has weakened or the the rubber seats are worn out.
Get your differential fluid checked and make sure you get synthetic for the rear if indicated. The clanking on turns reduces the possibility of the U-joints being the culprit. The driveshaft would give you noise going from reverse to drive, but in turns it is likely the clutches in the rear axle.
A four wheel drive can cause noise in all directions if the front drive has bad joints.
there is an adjustment bolt just in front of the rear wheel well on the drivers side. Look for where one cable splits into two cables.
Underneath your vehicle, a steel threaded cable comes from the back of one hub and is joined by a short cable from the other hub--then the original cable runs to a threaded end with an adjuster nut in it--and one smaller nut on the end outside of that--(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it real close to your transmission.
You might have to jack-up the back of the vehicle???
Pull the parking brake lever up sharply and then release it. Pull the parking brake lever to the second click and leave it there. You're looking for a slight drag of the brake shoes when you spin the wheels. To increase the drag, get under at the equalizer bar and turn the adjusting nut to take up the slack in the cables. Get out and spin the rear wheels if you think it's to tight. I will say don't be afraid to crank on it for a while as in this case, a little adjustment really does not go a long way. When you think you have the drag right, go back in the car and pull the brake up the the fourth click. At this point the wheels should be locked and you should not be able to turn them even when trying hard. If you can, tighten them up a little more. Once you've done this, release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely. If they are still binding due to the parking brake, back off the adjustment a little. And that's basically the whole adjustment procedure.
Can you move the shifter ?? Try foot on brake too!!could be a bad key ! Or maybe shifter jammed or your switch for your key ?? Try holding the stering wheel too the left hard and try turning the key !!!
Turn the key while turning the wheel, either to left or right. "jiggleitalittleit'llopen" I had the same thing happen to our GMC safari, the steering wheel got locked. The wheel had turned sharply and it was jammed. I fiddled with it turning the wheel back and forth while trying to turn the key, eventually it popped loose. 'WHEW!' Good Luck!