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A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement after about 20,000–30,000 miles (32,000–48,000 km), depending on your style of driving. In normal operation plug gap increases about 0.001 in. (0.025mm) for every 2500 miles (4000 km). As the gap increases, the plug's voltage requirement also increases. It requires a greater voltage to jump the wider gap and about two to three times as much voltage to fire the plug at high speeds than at idle. The improved air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injection, combined with the higher voltage output of modern ignition systems, will often allow an engine to run significantly longer on a set of standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that efficiency will drop as the gap widens (along with fuel economy and power).
When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires with tape.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
If the vehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.
Remove the spark plug cover(s), if equipped.
On the 2.5L engine remove the ignition coil assembly from the rear valve cover. See Section 2 for the procedure. Remove the water pump pulley cover.
Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot may become separated.
Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well to assure that no harmful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air is not available, use a vacuum to clean the area.
NOTE: Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of penetrating oil or silicone spray to the area around the base of the plug, and allow it a few minutes to work.
Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug, turn the spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and remove the spark plug from the bore.
WARNING Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a flexible extension may allow a shear force to be applied to the plug. A shear force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly and frustrating repairs.
Remove each plug and inspect the plug even if you are replacing them with new ones. An inspection can reveal a great deal of information on the overall condition of an engine. Use the condition charts in this section as a guide.
To install:
Inspect the spark plug boot for tears or damage. If a damaged boot is found, the spark plug wire must be replaced.
Using a wire feeler gauge, check and adjust the spark plug gap. When using a gauge, the proper size should pass between the electrodes with a slight drag. The next larger size should not be able to pass while the next smaller size should pass freely.
Carefully thread the plug into the bore by hand. A handy tool to use to install spark plugs are the flexible rubber installation tools that are available at most auto parts stores, in place of this tool an old plug wire boot or a piece of fuel line long enough to fit to the plug hole is a good alternative. If resistance is felt before the plug is almost completely threaded, back the plug out and begin threading again.
Carefully tighten the spark plug. If the plug you are installing is equipped with a crush washer, seat the plug, then tighten about 1⁄4 turn to crush the washer. If you are installing a tapered seat plug, tighten the plug to specifications provided by the vehicle or plug manufacturer.
Apply a small amount of silicone dielectric compound to the end of the spark plug lead or inside the spark plug boot to prevent sticking, then install the boot to the spark plug and push until it clicks into place. The click may be felt or heard, then gently pull back on the boot to assure proper contact.
On the 2.5L engine, install the coil pack and the water pump pulley.
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Plugged catalytic converter. No exhaust out, means no air in. Pull the O2 sensor in front of the cat, if power comes back, replace the cat. It will be a bit loud, but won't hurt anything.
No that will not really help what controls missing is bad fuel air mixture depending on what o2 sensor you change this may or may not affect this only the o2 sensor before the cat converter will affect this as it runs mixture.
That being said here is what i would check being a mechanic for 5 years with ford and 3 with bmw first check spark in all cylinders make sure it is blue not orange do this by pulling out plugs leave them connected to wire and have someone start the care and check the color of spark.
If blue in all your good if orange in any replace the coils and or coil if you have more that one.
Then replace the camshaft position sensor and if possible the crankshaft position sensor the crank controls starting spark and the cam running spark but they work together.
If this all fails and you have had a recent tune up plugs wires coils air filter fuel filter ect
If all this fails you need to see a shop as unless you have alt of tools and time its beyond most folks reach.
In reading what you've already done, I would suggest a Compression Test along with a vacuum gauge hooked up to the intake manifold. It may be that you're burning oil through your exhaust system in the catalytic converter. I've seen this with leaking or inoperative turbo-chargers. Pull all of your spark plugs, marking them as to what cylinder they went in with a Sharpie and if worn, replace them. Check the distributor cap & rotor button for wear or cross-firing. A Haynes Manual for your vehicle is available through most part stores which is truly effective for your DIYer. Bad plug wires can send unburned gases down through both O2 Sensors and the Catalyst. You may also want to check the plug wires and the coil(s). A fast way of checking plug wires is to grab all of them with your hand with the vehicle running and if you get "zapped"...you need spark plug wires. Remember, the codes you pull are just a general starting point as to where to start your diagnostics, not the exact problem itself. The computer doesn't monitor the mechanical aspect of your engine nor the fuel supply. The computer will take this as a given, so don't forget that when testing that it could be a compression problem or fuel problem, but as I first said...an oil leak fouling your exhaust system such as an inoperative EGR valve or oil leak on the exhaust side of the valve train.
it could be as simple as drilling holes in your catalytic converter or replacing them. Alot of these symptoms show up because of a plugged cat. converter or fried o2 sensors
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