Noise from front drivers side axle/hub, sounds like bad ball joint but have replaced brakes, rotor, and lower ball joint. upper was fine. cannot find what is causing this, is steadily getting worse an

You need to replace the upper control arm bushings and upper ball joint on both sides as well. You can buy them as a complete assembly. I had a similar problem and basically needed to replace everything in the front end of my 94 third. On mine the sound was the upper control arm shifting position on stops, starts, turns.

Hello there,
To replace the front ball joint on your jeep. You will be needing these instruments, Lug wrench Jack, Jack stands, Wheel chocks, Socket set, Wrench set, Needle-nosed pliers, Hub puller, Ball joint separator, Hammer, Ball joint press, Torque wrench, then, Please follow the steps below:
Loosen the lug nuts on your Cherokee's front tires, using the lug wrench. Jack up the front end of the vehicle and brace it with jack stands. Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires to prevent rolling. Back the lugs off the lug nuts, and remove both front tires from your Cherokee.
Remove the bolts behind the calipers. Lift the calipers off the hubs and set them on a support so they do not stretch the rubber lines.
Pull straight out on the brake rotor to remove it from the wheel studs.
Remove the cotter pin from the end of the axle shaft that extends through the hub. This is best done with a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Remove the drive nut from the axle shaft, and set it off to the side.
Remove the three bolts retaining the hub. These 12-point bolts are on the rear of the assembly.
Separate the hub assembly from the knuckle; a hub puller will make this easier.
Remove the cotter pins from the ball joints, using the needle-nosed pliers. You must detach the pins from both the upper and lower ball joints. Use a socket and ratchet to remove the nuts at the bottom of each ball joint.
Insert a ball joint separator between the knuckle and the ball joint. A hammer can be a big help to drive the separator into place and force the knuckle and ball joint apart.
Use a ball joint press to remove the joints. The ball joint press will force the upper and lower ball joints out. Follow the instructions included with your press.
Insert the new joints, using the ball joint press. You must reverse the motion of the press this time, pressing down on the upper joint and up on the lower joint. Be sure that the joints are completely in place within the knuckle.
Reinstall the steering knuckle onto the new ball joints, and thread the nuts onto the bottom of the joint. Check your manufacturer's specifications for the torque requirements for the nuts. Insert the cotter pins, and bend them down around the nut.
Reassemble the hub and axle around the knuckle. When replacing the three bolts, torque them to your manufacturer's specification.
Place the brake assembly back into position, both rotor and caliper. Replace the two bolts you removed on the caliper. Torque the bolts to your manufacturer's specification. Place the wheel back on the Cherokee, and tighten the lug nuts appropriately. With the wheel secured, lower the vehicle back to the ground.
Hope this was helpful to you. Goodluck Elect_Comp

Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350
Removal

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety stands.
   

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
   

1. Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) from the rotor and wire it out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 .
   

1. Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut retainer, nut, washer and front wheel bearing (1216).
   

1. Remove the rotor from the front wheel spindle (3105).
   
   
   
   
   
   Item Part Number Description 1 606085 Clamp Bolt 2 3B404 Camber Adjuster 3 800895 Nut 4 800937 Nut 5 3049 Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint 6 3050 Front Suspension Lower Arm Ball Joint 7 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 8 642569 Cotter Pin 9 3304 Steering Sector Shaft Arm Drag Link 10 383489 Nut 11 3001 Front Axle Assembly 12 388727 Bolt A - Tighten to 77-103 Nm
   (57-75 Lb-Ft) B - Tighten to 68-92 Nm
   (50-67 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 Lb-Ft) D - Tighten to 340-460 Nm (250-339 Lb-Ft)

1. Remove bearing cone and roller (1201) and wheel hub grease seal (1190). Discard the seal.
   

1. Remove front disc brake rotor shield (2K004). Refer to Section 06-03 .
   

1. Disconnect the steering linkage from the integral front wheel spindle and spindle arm by removing the cotter pin and nut and then removing the front wheel spindle tie rod from the spindle arm with Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
   

1. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the lower ball joint stud.
   

1. Remove the nut from the axle clamp bolt and remove the bolt from the axle.
   

1. Remove the camber adjuster from the upper ball joint stud and axle beam. If required, use Ball Joint Removing Tool D81T-3010-B or equivalent to remove adjuster.
   

1. CAUTION: Do not use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the axle as this will damage the seal and the ball joint socket.
   Strike the inside area of the axle as shown to pop lower ball joints loose from the axle beam.
   

1. Remove the front wheel spindle and ball joint from the axle.
   
   

Ball Joint, F-150, F-250, F-350 SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH
Removal

1. Remove the front wheel spindle (3105) and ball joint assembly from the axle. Refer to Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350 in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.
   

1. NOTE: Lower ball joint must be removed first.
   
   Install the front wheel spindle in a vise and remove the snap ring from the lower ball joint.
   

1. Remove the lower ball joint from the front wheel spindle using U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C and Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 or equivalent for F-150. Use Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH for F-250 and F-350.
   

1. Turn the forcing screw clockwise until the ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
   
2. CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or the front wheel spindle to aid in removal.
   Assemble U-joint tool and cup on the upper ball joint, and turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
   
   
   Installation
   
   1. CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or axle to aid in installation.
      NOTE: Upper ball joint must be installed into the front wheel spindle first.
      
      NOTE: Individual ball joint tools are included in Ball Joint Adapter Set D81T-3010-A or equivalent.
      
      To install the upper ball joint, assemble C-frame assembly, Ball Joint Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 and Installation Cup D81T-3010-A1 and D81T-3010-A3 or equivalents inside cup D81T-3010-A4 or equivalent in position on the front wheel spindle.
      
   1. Turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is seated.
      
      
      
      
   

Have not done this on your truck but book says just the upper ball joint needs separated. See procedure below from autozone.com. Please let me know if you have questions.

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Front wheels (left side should be sufficient in your case) Front hub cotter pin, retainer and nut (axle nut)
   
2. Using a floor hydraulic jack, support the lower suspension arm.
   
   Upper ball joint cotter pin and castle nut Knuckle from the front suspension upper arm
   
3. Lower the lower suspension arm and steering knuckle slightly to facilitate easier halfshaft removal.
4. Remove the 2 disc caliper mounting bolts, then lift the front disc caliper off of the front disc brake caliper anchor plate and position aside. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose; suspend it from the vehicle's frame with strong cord or wire.
5. Remove the 6 front halfshaft-to-differential bolts.
   WARNING Use care to avoid damaging the hub seal when removing the front halfshaft.
   

   

Fig. Halfshaft-to-differential mounting bolts (3 of the 6 bolts shown)-2001-03 F-150 and 2004 F-150 Heritage Edition

7. Remove the inboard end of the halfshaft from the differential case or extension axle case. Separate the front halfshaft and joints from the hub, then remove the halfshaft and joints from the vehicle.

To install:

1. Slide the halfshaft outboard end into the hub, making sure that the splines engage.
2. Situate the inboard end of the halfshaft against the front differential flange and install the 6 halfshaft-to-differential bolts. Tighten the halfshaft bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (82 Nm).
3. Install the front disc brake caliper onto the rotor and anchor plate, then install and tighten the 2 caliper mounting bolts to 21-26 ft. lbs. (28-36 Nm).
4. Lift the lower suspension arm and steering knuckle up until the upper ball joint stud is inserted into the steering knuckle. Install the upper ball joint castle nut and tighten to 57-76 ft. lbs. (77-104 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
5. Install the hub nut onto the halfshaft and tighten the hub nut to 221 ft. lbs. (300 Nm).
6. Install the hub nut retainer and a new cotter pin.
7. Install the front wheels and tighten the lug nuts in a star-shaped sequence to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).
8. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
   
3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.
   
   Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
   
4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
   NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.
   
   
   Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
   
5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.
   
   Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
   

To install:

1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
2. Install or connect the following:
   
   Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly
   

remove axle
1. remove wheel
2. remove brake caliper and brake braket
3. remove rotor
4. remove 4WD locking hub
5. remove c clip on axle
5a. (leave wheel bearing assy on after taking c-lip off saves time unless you want to take it of in that case you have 4 bolts on the backside of the bear that you will have to unbolt)
6. unbolt upper and lower ball joints
7. use ball joint tool and seperate
7a. remove spindel knuckel
8. slide axle out

Buy the right CV axle. Raise right front of vehicle. Remove wheel. use a lugnut and washers to secure brake rotor so that it is not flopping and trapping rust behind. Remove axle nut. Loosen nuts from outer tie rod end stud and lower ball joint stud almost all the way off, but do not remove them completely. Seperate the studs from knuckles by striking each knuckle with a ball peen hammer. After the tie rod and lower ball joint are seperated from the spindle knuckles, pry down on lower control arm and push end of axle through hub toward transaxle until hub and spindle assembly is free from axle/CV joint. Place drain pan under transmission. Carefully place pry bar between innner CV joint and transmission and pop axle assembly loose. Install new axle in reverse of the dissassembly.

to remove the axles, remove brake caliper and disc, remove hub assembly, the center hub/axle nut and...(there are i think 3-4 bolts on the back side of the spindle to remove the hub), you may have to force the hub off the spindle with a hammer or air hammer... once the hub is out the axle should slide out of the front differential allowing access to the ball joint nuts for removal...

That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings

Your Accord has what is called "Trapped Rotors". They actually fit behind the hub. The procedure to remove them is not complicated, but it is time consuming.
Here is how I do it:
1) Remove axle retaining nut.
2) Remove brake caliper and bracket.
3) Remove lower ball joint retaining nut and use pickle fork to loosen spindle from lower ball joint.
4) Remove axle from hub.
5) On the back of the spindle, remove four bolts that attach hub/bearing to spindle.
6) Use slide hammer to remove rotor/hub assembly.
7) Remove 4 bolts attaching rotor to hub.
8) While it is a snug fit, the hub bearing does slide through center of rotor to remove it.
Installation is in reverse order.
A bad bearing usually makes a growling noise while driving.