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Okay, there are a few reasons that this could happen, one being the selector motor which you have replaced so lets go to the next thing which is the fuse, when the motor goes bad it will blow fuse sometimes so check all fuses even under the hood fuse box, i think its a 20 amp fuse but test all of them.
The next problem could be a bad ground, run a new ground wire from the front diff to the frame of the truck.
try these tests and let me know the out come then we can move on, good day, also there is a lot of info on this problem on the web, type in 1999 ranger blinking 4x4 lights, good day
The motor mounts have a hinge bolt that goes through the upper engine hard bracket and the engine mount rubber section, it goes from from to rear in line with the engine, remove the nuts and take the load off the mount with a floor jack under the pan (use a block softwood to avoid denting the pan), once the nut and load is off slide the long bolt out and raise the engine.
when my 99 4.0 auto was still under warranty, it had a bump-bump when it came to a stop. the dealership found it was missing the two bolts holding the transmission to the motor mount.
Open the window. Remove the trim panel and watershield and support the window.
Disconnect the power window motor connector.
There may be a drill dimple in the door panel, opposite the concealed motor retaining bolt. Drill out the dimple to gain access to the bolt. Be careful to avoid damage to the wires. Remove the motor mounting bolts and remove the motor and regulator assembly.
Separate the motor and drive from the regulator on a workbench.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Check for smooth operation before installing the trim panel.
Raise the window fully if possible. If not, you will have to support the window during this procedure. Disconnect the battery ground.
Remove the door trim panel.
Disconnect the window motor wiring harness.
There may be a drill dimple in the door panel, opposite the concealed motor retaining bolt. Drill out the dimple to gain access to the bolt. Be careful to avoid damage to the wires.
Remove the motor mounting bolts (front door) or rivets(rear door).
Push the motor towards the outside of the door to disengage it from the gears. You'll have to support the window glass once the motor is disengaged.
Remove the motor from the door.
Installation is the reverse of removal. To avoid rusting in the drilled areas, prime and paint the exposed metal, or, cover the holes with waterproof body tape. Make sure that the motor works properly before installing the trim panel.
There are no V8s that will bolt right up to your existing drivetrain. The swap would require modification of motor mounts, heater fan box or firewall depending on your motor of choice, a larger capacity radiator, splicing into your existing wiring, a v8 transmission (ie C4 if automatic) and a v8 transfer case if 4x4, and a minimum of a 8.8" ford rear end (preferably a 9" ford rear end)/dana 44 front end to handle the power.
There are many books out there specifically detailing how to swap a v8 into a Ford Ranger. Refer to this site if you are really interested in undertaking this project: http://www.jamesduff.com/broncoII/v8conversion.html
This Seems Pretty Cut & Dry Although I Have Removed Exhaust to Gain Access to Starters on the 3.0L THIS IS Instructions PER> ALLDATA
REMOVAL
WARNING: WHEN REPAIRING STARTER MOTOR OR PERFORMING ANY MAINTENANCE IN THE AREA OF THE STARTER MOTOR, NOTE THE HEAVY GAUGE INPUT LEAD CONNECTED TO THE STARTER SOLENOID IS HOT AT ALL TIMES. MAKE SURE THE PROTECTIVE CAP IS INSTALLED OVER THE TERMINAL AND IS REPLACED AFTER REPAIR.
You should have bolts that go across the front of you shroud and a couple of them down by the fan. To take the fan off you need to pull off the belts so it is free and then you will have more bolts on the front of the fan.
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