SOURCE: I have a mazda 626
Nope, it's not a problem. The numbers relate to the viscosity or slippery'ness (if thats a word) of the oil. The first number (5 or 10) is the viscosity of the oil when you first start the car. 5 is more slippery than 10. The second number (30) is the operating viscosity of the oil after your car has warmed up.
Simply put, in the winter your oil thickens when it cools down so you need smoother oil (5w30) when you start the car.
Winter = 5w30
Summer = 10w30
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Mazda 6 oil change
If DPF means Diesel Particulate Filter, no you don't need to change this cartridge. Somewhere near 120000Km you have to refill the additive tank with Eolys additive.
SOURCE: Mazda Premacy Timing Belt Change
Sorry for the severe delay.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered question.
I do not know if you still need the answer, but I am going to answer it in case you still do.
The Front Oil Seal must be replaced when the Timing Belt/Chain is replaced. It is located behind the Crankshaft Pulley on the Crankshaft.
SOURCE: I need a diagram on How to change a Serpentine belt for a 97 mazda protege
Click on the following free direct Link. It has the correct Serpentine Belt Diagrams for your 1997 Mazda Protege depending on your Engine Size (1.5L or 1.8L) and Options (AC/No AC etc.).
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1997/make/mazda/model/protege/1997_mazda_protege_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm
"HOW TO":
Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link)
2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
4. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them
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