Question about 2006 Land Rover Range Rover Sport
SOURCE: Range Rover 1990 abs pump
Ok, your light WILL go out, and go back to normal once repaired, so don't fret.
Unless the pump was really loud (bad internals), you likely burned up the pressure switch (green thing on end of pump), which can be purchased in LA, USA; or through me, GreenDog Oregon (store name on Ebay US). These go out due to the pump running for an extended peroid of time, overheating the entire assembly, and allowing moisture into the pressure switch (Yes, they do go bad, and I have pictures of the inside of a bad one, full of brown muck). The reason this happens is bacause the nitrogen charge in the ABS accumulator (ball like canister attached to pump) has a limited life-span, and goes bad after about 7 years (Rave 2003). This means that the pump must run more often to accomidate braking, as it has no assist.
So, you can replace the Accumulator, and the pressure switch, and will likely be back in commission, after a proper bleeding, of course (directions for proper bleeding in Rave 2003 -CD available on ebay for appx $5)
Or, you could just replace the entire assy with a nkown good used part, and since the switch on the used part will likely be good, you can then just replace the ABS accumulator. The pressure switch is very hard to find, but I do have a couple of sources, here on the West Coast.
If you need further assistance or need a pressure switch (or parts), contact me through my ebay store, GreenDog Oregon. If you have trouble finding my store, just look for P38 and Classic parts, I'll be near the top of the store listings, as my prices are low, due to the low cost of rovers in the NW.
Posted on Oct 04, 2008
Unfortunately I believe that will require a trip to the dealer, and a hefty price tag to go with it. Most dealers refuse to let anyone else handle their security systems. And most keys have the alarm keypad built in making it even more dealer specific. I wish I could give better news.
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.
Not sure if this what you need for the "P38" but it is for the 1996 Range Rover.
I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.
Click on the following Link. It has the several Serpentine Belt Diagrams, one of which matches your specific vehicle with your particular options (AC, Power Steering etc..).
Standard Rule to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link)
2. Rotate/Move the Tensioner away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Let me know if this helped...
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
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