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Easy. Set engine on TDC with distributor rotor pointing at #1 plug wire. Remove holdown bolt, disconnect small wires and remove cap and slowly lift distributor up paying attention to how the rotor moves as you lift. Note position of vacuum advance and make a mark on engine where rotor is pointing as you remove dizzy. On new distributor, rmove cap and turn rotor to match the mark you made from old rotor position. Install new unit with vacuum advance similar to the old one and rotor at correct position, and as you lower unit into place insure that rotor points same as old one did before you started removing it. The one other major issue is that a points style distributor has a supply wire with either a built in resistor, or a separate resistor inside the coil. The new unit needs full 12 volts to supply it so no resistor is used. If the old unit had a coil with internal resistor and your new unit has the coil in the cap, no change needs to be made. However if the old unit used an external resistor coil, you must now run a wire from the ignition switch "on" position directly to the distributor to supply full 12 volts. All of this depends on what you are working on so now don't you wish you had told us that?
post the symptoms. "cant switch off what, exactly"?
the FSM covers the tests, ever heard of the FSM. (buy it at the dealer)
i get to decode JTD ,thanks for not posting maker , model
Is this a FIAT"? why must i guess.? uniJet Turbo Diesel,
Some PSA Peugeot Citroen diesel engines are also rebadged JTD units.
Hi Steven, I would think of replacing the the points (contact breaker) and condenser (capacitor) Theses are inside the distributor and revealed by removing the distributor cap. Remove the holding clips or screws (I don't remember which) and then lift off the cap and rotor arm. remove the cables connecting to the condenser and points. Remove both points and condenser and replace both and reconnect the electrical cables. Turn the engine by hand until the contact breaker is fully opened by one of the cam lobes on the center shaft and then adjust the gap to point four five millimeters. Rotate the engine again by hand until the points close and then with the ignition turned on but not cranking check you have spark by opening the points with a plastic tool. Once the spark is confirmed turn the engine to the timing marks (Please confirm ignition timing but I believe it is 6 degrees before Top Dead Center. Turn the engine so that the timing marks align at that setting and then set the points by loosening off the distributor body and rotating it so that the points are just about to open but are still closed. Tighten everything up and refit the rotor arm and cap and start the engine. For a more accurate setting of the distributor timing use a strobe timing light after initial start up. Always attend to the ignition timing before attempting any carburetor adjustment. Regards John
You need to mark in 2 places. With the cap off mark the position of the rotor button on the distributor housing first. Then you need to make a mark on the distributor housing that will line up with a mark on the engine itself.
When you put the distributor back in back the rotor button up before you put it in because the cam gear will turn it ahead as it seats. For example, if the rotor button is at 3 o'clock then back it up to 1 o;clock.
Don't force the distributor down at the end because you can damage the end that drives the oil pump. Fidle and wiggle it as you push and it should line up and drop onto the oil pump. Also DON'T turn the engine over while it's out or you will have to retime the engine. Hope this helps.
an air leak would weaken the mix of fuel to air so giving you better fuel efficiency but a poor power output.
was my last answer not to your liking, re **** fuel consumption on all fiat/alpha cars.but it is true, ask any owner........14.7 average mpg.......£205 road tax.....(tax it for a year and quadruple its value...)