I pulled out each relay one at a time and reseated them, so I know they're back in the right position and should be seated well, now the car won't start. All the instruments come on , just the car won't kick the starter over. I have the cover to the fuse box which calls out the fuses and positions but not the relays which I need.

Step 1 Open the driver's door on your Ram 2500. Reach beneath the front of the driver's seat and pull the seat release lever up. Push the seat toward the rear of the truck as far as it will go.
Step 2 Kneel within the door opening so that you're able to see the bottom of the steering wheel. Below the base of the steering wheel you should see a large square piece of trim panel. This is your Ram 2500's knee-blocker panel.
Step 3 Remove the screw on the top, left and right of the panel with a Phillips screwdriver. Along the bottom lip of the panel--horizontally--you should see three more screws. Remove the screws with your Phillips screwdriver.
Take the panel off to reveal your interior relay and fuse cluster. If your turn signal relay has never been replaced, it should be the only white relay in the cluster. If it was replaced before with an aftermarket relay, it will likely be black in color. The square turn signal relay sits on the top, outer right corner of the relay and fuse cluster. It pulls out of place and simply plugs back into position.
Should not be sharing with the brakes.

My 90 camry had that problem. I replaced the entire assembly and nothing changed, It was a cracked wire in the wiring harness that goes thru the drivers side door

the seat belt has a spring and can become twisted and not completely go back in on its self you need to pull the seat belt all the way out, and slowly let it back in it should reseat its self make sure there is no twist overs while it goes back in.

i had this problem on my 96 chevy, basically theres a set of ratcheting gears that lock the seat in place in the various positions. sometimes over time or due to abuse one side or the other gets stripped out and the seat will no longer lock into place. i found a ripped up seat on Craigslist that was in a part out truck and bought it cheap then took both seats in the an upholstery shop, between the junked out seat (15 bucks) and the labor at the shop (50bucks) it cost me 65 bucks to fix, hope this helps

I just got done fixing mine. The culprit was a slipped axial spring by the key-lock mechanism in the seat. Yep, it's likely that nothing is broken, just a bad design, I'm looking at you MINI. It's not pretty to get at, but the repair is fairly straightforward.

Labeled pictures can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/25717593@N04/sets/72157629775433188/with/7217494500/

The first task is getting the seat back out. I tried several different ways to "alternatively actuate" the latch from the back, but couldn't see anything and couldn't come up with an appropriate tool. The nature of the failure doesn't let you grab the cable with pliers and pull. The cable is totally useless at this point.

So, I went in from the front. To get at the latch mechanism, you have to partially pull off the upholstery. Luckily, it is not nearly as bad as it sounds. The upholstery has a plastic edge that presses into a seam on the back side of the seat pan. You just start at the top of the seat, and start pulling the edge out. You can do it with just your fingers. I'm afraid as time goes on and the cloth gets worn, things may rip, but my '05 interior has held up quite well..... even in AZ. Anyway, separate the edge as much as you can from the top, around the upper right corner and down the right side. Maybe you can get away with just pulling away the top.

Pull back the top and right corner of the upholstery and padding. Again, maybe you can get away with just pulling away the top.You just want to get enough access inside the seat to see in at the top left corner with a flashlight. What you'll see is a metal ear with a hole in it. Take a coat hanger, put a small hook in the end, fish it into the corner, hook the hole and pull the ear up. Your seat will unlatch.

Once you have the seat back removed, pull back the upholstery from the upper left corner and remove the two Torx bolts. Bend back the upholstery, hold on to the plastic key lock housing from inside and pull it straight off the latch assembly. There are no screws hold them together, its just a press fit of plastic onto two posts.

You can now see the top where the cable end is attached. You will see the axial spring and it will more than likely be resting on the metal housing instead of the plastic lever where it should be. I just put the spring back on which is dumb because this failure is bound to occur again in the future. If I have to do it again, I will probably heat up a small piece of pin and push it into the plastic behind the spring flange with it sticking up about two spring wire diameters. This would act as retainer and probably keep the pin from wiggling off again.

Look at the annotated pictures linked above for more info. Good luck.

The plastic pull on the top of the seat may have been screwed down too much. If that happens, it will not allowing the lock mechanism to fully unlock. Unscrew the top plastic pull a little at a time and at the same time reach around and pull the lock leaver up until it is in the full unlock position. You should then be able to pull the plastic lever up normally and fold down the seat.

The hot wire to the starter comes from the starter relay. The relay has for pins numbered 30,85,86 87. 30 should have power at all times, this will put power to 87 when the relay is energized Now 85 is usually ground and 86 is the ignition wire. The ignition wire will be hot when you turn the key to the start position. Also in the fuse box the is a crank fuse 10amp. you will need to check this. You have one fuse/relay box under the hood and one under the back seat. I believe the fuse you are hunting for is under the seat. The seats come out one of two ways. first you has to push back on the front of the seat while pulling up where the passenger sits on both sides. Yours may have a latch on both side same place. check this out and let me knowIf you think the relay may be bad, just swap it with another one in the relay box. Of course replace it if it is.Randy

Thank you for the inquiry.
Ok, I know this is old but to help anyone in the future...
It is really, really easy to remove the rear seat cushion.

You just push the bottom of the seat cushion in and lift up.

Keep rear seat back in upright position.
You need to unlatch the rear seat cushion at 2 points, which are at the center of each seating position. You just squish the seat cushion towards the back of the car, right at the bottom where it meets the carpet and lift up. That half of the seat will popup, then repeat for other side.

It takes maybe 5 seconds to do.

You won't beleive how easy it is 'till you try it.
This is how many, many cars mount there rear seat cushions.
Hope this helps helps. Please keep us updated and remember to rate this answer.

Swap it with a relay you know to be good and see if it works again,pick a relay that is not important to the function of your car.

does this have automatic seat positioning when you open the door or hit the unlock button on your key fob?

here's how it works:

Seats — Programmable
The memory seat system allows automatic positioning of the driver seat to two programmable positions using the message center, the key fob or the keypad on the door.
Seats — Driver Seat Module
The Driver Seat Module (DSM) is located under the driver's seat and is attached to the seat frame. The DSM will:

• control the movements of the driver's seat and power exterior rearview mirrors
• store and recall seat and mirror positions of two personalized settings
• receive all power seat and mirror control inputs from the Driver's Door Module (DDM) through the J1850 communication network
• move the exterior rearview mirrors downward when the transmission is shifted into reverse, if enabled.

Seats — Driver Door Module
The driver's seat regulator control switch is connected to the Driver Door Module (DDM). The DDM receives the driver's seat regulator control switch input and communicates the direction of movement over the J1850 communication network.
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Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Front seat tracks obstructed.
• Seat at limit(s) of travel.

• Open fuse junction panel Fuses 39 (10A), 41 (20A), and 28 (10A).
• Open power distribution box Fuse 13 (30A).
• Loose, corroded or damaged connectors.
• Damaged switches.
• Damaged motors

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Also, the dealer can run a scan on your seat modules with his tester and tell you what the codes are. They should only charge an hour to do this. Then you can decide what to do. Call your dealer and ask how much to run the scan test.