How to change 2005 chevrolet equinox back spark plugs

With all due respect for the opinion - I suggest you will do it better working from the underside for the 3 on the rear of engine.
Four points in your story motivated me to try from the underside (and I just finished the job without any hicups):
- mechanics suggested from the underside
- 130 lb sitting in the engine compartment will likely damage or crack something
- removing the distributor should not be needed
I drove the car with the front wheels on a pair of inclines to get more clearance underneath, secured it, then squezed from the front between the wheels. A good thin flurescent light can fit from the bottom up to help you see what you're doing.
The boots from the spark plugs I removed without much effort, then with fingertips I felt the exact place of the plugs. I fit a short 3" extension over the socket, then squeezed the handle and started turning. All theree came out without problems (before removing completely I also squeezed the extension pipe of a can of compressed air and blew air to clean around the plugs).
You need to "see" with your fingers and remember how the plugs are inclined to fit the new ones, but otherwise is just a little exhausting that you have to be a contortionist and find a good position (something to raise your head while working underneath, like a cardboard box would be useful).
So the bottom line is that it works as well from the bottom and don't have to remove anything else.
Pabloantoine

I just changed my 2005 Equinox plugs and wires. Dealer quoted $450 to do the same, which greatly motivated me. If you have any mechanical skill and dexterity at all, it isn't that bad of a job. You approach them from the top, not the bottom as some garages told me. I removed the coil pack which was an essential step to free up some space for my arms and eyesight. I laid cardboard across the top of the engine, then laid myself across the top of the engine. Be careful not to break plastic nipples off parts attaching tubes and hoses as you lay across engine and support yourself. I did, oops.

Once you get your eyeballs against the firewall, looking straight down, you can follow the wires for plugs #1, #3 and #5 to their respective positions. Original wires are sometimes difficult to remove. Twist the wire back a forth to ensure it is mobile, then grab it with your fist and using the base of your palm as the pivot point, pull upward. It will pop off. It must!

The best tool you can own for the next step is a magnetic 5/8" or 16mm spark plug socket. The old sponge inserts are OK, but the new magnetics are the bomb. Strongly recommend you invest the $7 or so to own one, if only for this job. Place socket on your 3/8" extension 6" long. With a 3/8" ratchet, it will come out readily. You must get the right extension length that is long enough to clear manifold and heat deflectors, but short enough to attach the ratchet without jambing into the firewall. #1 plug is the most difficult, but in the big picture of life, it isn't that bad unless you weigh 350lbs and can't fit your body or arm in the engine compartment. It's arguably easier than unbolting engine mounts and rotating the engine, which you do not do on the All Wheel Drive Equinox. Follow the same procedure with plugs #3 and #5. I used two shorter extensions together totalling 5.5" on these plugs, but use what ever works for you. There seems to be more room to work before the firewall interferes. We're only talking an inch or two, but that is huge in these tight spaces. The shorter extension gave me more room to work the ratchet.

The bottom line is get to your plugs from the top!

Definately go from underneath. I just finished changing all 6plugs and wires in about an hour with no problem. Only thing you have to remove is plastic housing for the front ones. I too drove it up ramps to have more clearance underneath. Its pretty easy. In closing faster and easier to go from underneath.

SMALLER GUYS MIGHT HAVE A EASIER TIME FROM THE TOP . BUT 6FT AND UP GUYS HAVE TO GO FROM THE BOTTOM !