At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
Hi, I have a 1986 F250 3/4 ton with a 302 engine. I'm wondering how to go about getting access to the seal which I think is the problem. The info for the axle on the inside door is 27 thats all it says for the axle. Theres a small tag on the rear end and the #'s are as follows...3...V1O8B and below that is 3. 731026H28 And I was going to take off the rear end cover but I didn't see any place to put new gear oil in. Anyway, thats what I would like to find out. Thanks in advance, Rick
If I could unbolt the axle I would not have to make this post. I don't have 6 or 8 bolts that stick out from center of wheel. How do I send you a pic of my axle?
If I could unbolt the axle I would not have to make this post. I don't have 6 or 8 bolts that stick out from center of wheel. How do I send you a pic of my axle?
Thanks, I clicked on helpful for your answer but I haven't tried it yet. Sounds like it could be the answer I was looking for. I'll get back to click FixYA if it works. Thanks again triple
Thanks, I clicked on helpful for your answer but I haven't tried it yet. Sounds like it could be the answer I was looking for. I'll get back to click FixYA if it works. Thanks again triple
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
You will need to unbolt the axle and slide it out there should be 6 or 8 bolts on the hub that sticks out of the center of wheel. take this out and there is a spanner nut inside you will need to bend back locking tab and unscreww nut and drum and hub will slide off you will see seal inside hub
SORRY there is different axle options on these trucks
Raise and support vehicle, then remove rear wheel and brake drum. Loosen rear housing cover screws and allow lubricant to drain, then remove cover. Remove differential pinion shaft lock bolt and differential pinion shaft. Move flanged end of axle shaft inward and remove C-lock from end of shaft. Remove axle shaft from housing by pulling outward. Reverse procedure to install. Apply Loctite EOAZ-19554-B to pinion shaft lock bolt threads, then torque lock bolt to 15-30 ft. lbs. there should be a plug on the side of differential a 3/8 ratchet and extension will fit in it i think it is on right side behind pinionSORRY there is different axle options on these trucks
Raise and support vehicle, then remove rear wheel and brake drum.
Loosen rear housing cover screws and allow lubricant to drain, then remove cover.
Remove differential pinion shaft lock bolt and differential pinion shaft.
Move flanged end of axle shaft inward and remove C-lock from end of shaft.
Remove axle shaft from housing by pulling outward.
Reverse procedure to install. Apply Loctite EOAZ-19554-B to pinion shaft lock bolt threads, then torque lock bolt to 15-30 ft. lbs.
there should be a plug on the side of differential a 3/8 ratchet and extension will fit in it i think it is on right side behind pinion
no problem good luck. be sure to check your axle for a groove where the seal rides as this can cause a leak even with new sealno problem good luck. be sure to check your axle for a groove where the seal rides as this can cause a leak even with new seal
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you can see inside the wheel bearings then they require lubrication from the differential. If they are sealed then no. You don't say if the rear axles are 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton. No brand of seal will seal better than any other. Spray engine degreaser in the rear end and flush out with water. You may need to do that more than once.
Leaking oil at the rear wheels can be one of two things, Easy fix is brake fluid, this would be the rear brake wheel cylinder leaking. Check your brake fluid tank under the hood for low fluid. If that is ok. Your leak may be your rear axle shaft seal. You need to remove the tire/wheel ether way. Jack up the car to pull the wheel, take your lugs loose while the tire is still on the ground, it is easy to take them loose this way. Take the EM: brake off, and jack up this side of the car. Your car could have disk or drums as both are offered on the 2003 Town car. Once the tire is off you will see if you have disk or drums brakes. If drums you will need to pull the drum off at access the brake cylinder to see if that is leaking or not. If drums you have to back off the brake shoes by the adjusting wheel thru a small access window in the back plate. If you have disk brakes the caliper is right there and will be easy to see if it is leaking. If you have determined it is the rear axle seal leaking, this may be best done by a shop, due to needing a few special tools to remove the axle and then reinstall a seal. You will need a slide hammer. If drum brakes you will have to remove the brake backing plate, this means shoes and all hardware, please take pictures and get as good focus as you can to see how everything goes back together. Once down to the axle mounting, remove the 4 bolts and attach the slide hammer and pop out the axle, catch any fluid that will leak out. Hope this helps FixYa up.
Hi:
Your manual transmission is most likely leaking from one of the drive axle seals.
If you want detailed diagrams of your car, then a good choice would be purchasing a subscription from :
JACK up the truck and block other rear wheel both back and take hand brake off ,,remove rear wheel/brake drum/handbrake cable from rear brake/remove metal brake hose/remove rearbacking plate with all parts fitted to it ie brakeshous 4or5 bolts holding the rear axle in to housing and when all parts off then put on a IMPACK PULLER and remove complete backing plate with axle assy and take to the engineering shop to get it pressed off and a new bearing and seal assy pressed back on .
Then refit in reverse of removal and bleed the brakes and top up the rear axle of oil (EP90) apply h/brake take out blocks and lower jack and test drive .. BUT MAKE SURE THE BRAKES ARE 100%
Not that difficult, raiseand support the rear of the truck and remove the wheels. Might as well replace both sides so you know you have new seals, remove the differential cover and drain the fluid. Once differential is opened and cleaned , remove the axle "C" clip that hold the axle in place and slide the axle out. Once the axle is out remove the wheel seal and clean around the area. This would be a good time to replace the wheel bearing too since you have access to them and there not that expensive. Install the new bearing and seal, note make sure you oiled the bearing and seal before installing it back and take care when installing the axle back in and "C: clip. Use RTV silicon gasket maker to seal the differential cover and wheels back on and lower. If your lazy like i am, you can drain the differential fluid and replace it with a 50/50 mix with gear oil and Lucas engine oil additives. That may stop the leak and get you a few more miles. You gear oil is 75W-90 and the capacity is 2.6 liters and 3.6 liters if you have the 11.50 Ring gear. Good luck and hope this helps.
There are 4 bolts for each rear axle. They are located behind the rear brake drums. Remove e-brake cable from rear drum and take off brake line.(carefully). I recomend draining and changing your rear differential fluid too, because if the fluid by run out of axle housing. also you should replace the seals for the axles of if you are changing the bearings. When you are done don't forget to bleed your brakes, and hooking up e-brake cable. I hope this answers your question.
if it is the seal, you will have to remove the caliper and rotor, remove the differential cover and remove the bolt and pin inside the diff carrier housing. push in the axle and remove the axle clip and pull out the axle use a seal puller or prybar to remove seal reverse the steps to assemble
If I could unbolt the axle I would not have to make this post. I don't have 6 or 8 bolts that stick out
from center of wheel. How do I send you a pic of my axle?
Also, where do I put in new gear oil?
How can I add a pic to this post?
Thanks, I clicked on helpful for your answer but I haven't tried it yet. Sounds like it could be the answer I was looking for. I'll get back to click FixYA if it works. Thanks again triple
×