If your positive that the battery is fully charged and has been load tested,, then your ignition switch may be bad, if the relay is clicking that would mean its getting juice, I would strongly suggest that you have the battery checked,, with all those new parts,, it all leads back to the battery not carrying the amps it needs , if the click is heard at the starter relay
Before I get started, what I am going to tell you may not al be relivant to your problem, but may help people with the same or similar problems. First, I want to mention. New parts can be defective, that is why they have warranties. Just because you replaced the relay and it clicks, doesn't always mean that it has completed the circuit.(Please excuse any typagraphical and spelling errors, I suffer from Parkinson's disease, consequently I am prone to sometimes misspell words or get the letters out of order. However it has not taken away the 50+ years of training and experience I have in the automotive feild)The first solution may remidy your problem, But through the years I have been in this feild, I have seen untrained, weekend warriors, throw parts at a problem in attempts to solve their problem. I had one customer who spent around$1,200 in parts trying to fix his car. When it came into my shop with a no start condition, the problem was spotted in less than a minute and fixed in five minutes. He was charged our shop minimum rate. The problem was a ground wire which had come loos up on the intak manifoled. This ground goes to the computer which uses it to make and break the ground circuit on the injectors, Be wise and don't just start throwing parts at you car in hopes of solving your problem. There are tests which can be made to verify if a part is faulty in most cases.Down to your problem and those similar. There is a neutral safety switch which keeps the starter from activating if the gear selector is not solidly in park or in neutral. Try putting it in neutral and see if it will start. If it has a manual transmission, there is a switch which inhibits the starter from activating if it is bad. The clutch pedal must be depressed fully to the floor. On occasions, I have had cars come into my shop where thet starter didn't work because the floor mat was all wadded up under the pedals keeping the pedal from reaching it's fully extended postion to where the clutch switch would complete the circuit. The clutch switch is located under the dash if you follow the clutch arm up, you will find two switches If you have an ohm meter,(ican't remember it it's the upper switch or the lower one, but I think it's the upper one) in plug it, touch one lead of the ohm meter to one of the wires coming from the switch and the other lead to the other wire. With the pedal in th up position, the meter should read 00.0 (most digital ohm meters have a feature which you can position it to, when you touch the two leads together, it will beep. I use that feature because I don't have to look at the meter when I am doing the test.Once you have tested it in that position (some ohm meters come with "aligator clips yo either slip on to the end of the leads or screw on the the leads. If you don't have this feature, and you live in the USA, Radio Shack sells a pack of leads with aligator clips at each end which gives you the ability to extend your ohm meter leads out far enough to where you can fully depress the clutch pedal.Fully depress the pedal and the meter should beep, the switch is good You can go to the lead which plugs into the starter and using a volt meter which should be a feature on your digital meter (make sure it is set on "DC", take a paper clip or something that you can push into the lead that plugs onto the starter,making sure it is a solid connection. Adjust your volt meter to 20 volts,clip the positive lead(RED) to the starter wiire and ground the negative (black) lead to the engine where you can see shiny metal. Position the meter to where you can see it from inside the car from the driver's side with the hood open, and then turn the key to the start position.When I had been working for a Nissan dealer and went to a factory school, they told us that it took a minimum of 9.6 volts to activate the starter solenoid. This may have changed to a higher reding requirement since I last went to a factory training class. One test you can do, is clip one of the leads you bought to the small terminal you pulled the wire off of. If your lead is not long enoough, just clip another lead to the first one until you can reach th positive side of the battery. MAKE SURE THAT NON OF THE ADDED LEADS WHERE THE CLIPS JOIN DON"T TOUCH METAL! put a little tape around them..(make sure that your battery terminals are not all corroded(issan bolts their positive lead to the battery cable end. Tey often corrode. Make sure they are clean and solidly connected. Then touch the lead to the positive terminal. If the starter works, the problem is elsewhere. If their badly corroded, most auto parts houses have similar terminals you can buy to replace yours if it is badly corroded.. You can also buy a cheap battery terminal cleaner which consists of apart which you push over the terminals and rotate it around the terminal a few times. There is another part of it which you can either pull or twist off the top and it will have a wire brush which you can push up into the battery cable end to clean. This should insure a solid connection. If your battery has caps, you can carefully pry them off to look into the battery cells to check th acid level. It should be fairly close to the top. If it isn't, use distilled water, like the bottled water you drink. DO NOT USE TAP WATER! Add the water until it reaches the level I mentioned before. Also, the battery must be fully or close to fully charged. Test the voltage using your digital volt meter setting it to 20 volts DC and touching the red lead to the positive terminsl and the black lead to the negative terminal. The reading must be at least 12 volts. If it isn't, it needs to ne charged. Some places will charge you battery for free and other's will charge you for the service. You can buy a cheap "Trickle "charger from most auto parts houses.. A trickle charger will not charge your battery fast. Depending on it's state of charge, it may take all day or all night. If the battery has not reached 12 volts by that time, but might have reached 11 volts, take it down to your local parts house. They will test the battery for free. A good battery whaen a 150 amp load is applied for 15 seconds, should not drop below 9.6 volts. If it fails or is boarder line, replace it. Make sure the replacment is either rated the same(the label will give you cold cranking amps.) it's ok if it's rated higher, but not lower. Obviously make sure the battery is the same size and the terminals are in the same place as your old battery. It is more common than you think that an experienced counter people at auto parts houses might sell you the wrong part. Always make sure they match. If they don't, ask why they are different? One other thing. Always disconnect the negative battery cable first and reconnect with the negative cable connected last. Hopefully I have shed some light on this subject fory you and might have helped a few others along the way. Good luck.
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