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I am not a mazda guy but it sounds like the pressure plate is bad. Have you check the clutch linkage to be sure something did not slip or break. If so I would be looking at the clutch pressure plate.
The first thing to check is the power source. Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight. Next when you lose power have someone trace the current with a test light or voltage meter until you find the break in the system
Open the hood, have a confederate push the clutch pedal in and out. You look for the thing at the end of the engine shaped like a large bell. This connects the engine to the transmission and has all the clutch stuff inside. At some point on its side there will be a rubber boot with a lever coming out from it. That lever is pushed back and forth by a piston which is inside a slave cylinder, and that is operated by the clutch pedal. So if you see no movement of the lever whilst your pal is moving the pedal in and out most likely your problem lies with the hydraulic clutch, either at the master or slave end. This is a good thing as it does not require removing the engine and replacing all the stuff inside the bell housing. You buy a new hydraulic clutch system pre-bled, about 200 bucks and pay someone to put it in. The car is 16 years old however and if the little lever is moving you are at the point where your only real choice is to pay someone to replace all the clutch stuff and resurface the flywheel. That will be much more and may well exceed the value of the car.
OK for you experts the slave piston moves it only one way and a spring returns it.
This just happened to me yesterday. First, push the AC button to turn the AC off. Then, find the fuse pannel on the driver's side under the dash. Mine is behind the ash tray. Replace the 10 amp fuse (marked fuse #18 on my 1995 Camry manual) and the windows, spedo, tach, etc will come back on. My problem is the bearings on my AC clutch heated up a plastic piece between the AC clutch and AC compressor and the plastic piece blew up and sprayed hot plastic all around the AC compressor. The car runs, but no AC and if I push the AC button, the fuse blows again. I am planning to unbolt the compressor from the engine block, and replace the clutch assembly and pully without disconnecting the hoses. Disconnecting the hoses will vent coolant to the atmosphere and require professional equipment to clean the oil from the system, pull a vaccuum and recharge the system. The AC compressor clutch assembly is available at Advanced Auto for $98. The whole compressor is $247 but requires a lot of work to recharge. You could also take the clutch assembly or whole compressor off and just leave it off and get a shorter (40" in my case) belt to go just to the alternator.
Good Luck.
Fill the clutch reservoir with new brake fluid and kneel down beside the car, reach in with your hand and pump the clutch pedal up and down until it starts to return on it's own. Check the reservoir level, hop in the car and pump the pedal about twenty times with you foot, the clutch will self bleed and you'll be able to shift. If there is a leak somewhere, this problem will reoccur until the cause of the leak is fixed.
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