Vehicle just serviced but dropped sump plug on freeway, saw smoke, pulled off very smartly, stopped oil still running from sump - need sump bolt size and how do i check oil pressure etc if I switch back on. Motor 3000 v6 still sounded good when I switched off

It isn't too hard a job it's just a messy one. The oil filter type might depend on the version of the engine yours is fitted with. This method is for the basic 'screw on' type.
I have attached a series of videos that will be a rough guide to doing this job.
Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. The drain plug will be a larger size bolt on the lowest part of the sump, (oil pan), on the engine.
I usually use a large sheet of cardboard on the floor with an oil catch pan on top of it.
Carefully loosen the drain plug one turn. It should start to leak oil. Gently remove the plug 'by hand' so you don't drop it in the oil pan with the used oil. Let it drain until it's a steady Slow drip. Clean the drain plug and the hole it came out of then refit the plug.
**NOTE** fit the plug by hand until it stops THEN just turn it a small amount tighter with a spanner or socket. It does NOT need to be in super tight, about 20 to 25Nm as a torque setting.
Dispose of the old oil safely. Some mechanic shops will accept it for safe disposal.
Facing the rear of the vehicle and looking down on the engine, the filter should be on the left side about half way down. Remove it from underneath as access will be better. It should only be in 'Hand Tight' but you might need a 'strap' or 'filter' tool to loosen it at first.
** The filter will have oil in it and oil will leak out of the filter mount hole so use your drip pan to catch the spillages**.
Make sure you have the old filter oil seal ring as they sometimes stay stuck to the engine block.
Clean all the exposed faces as best you can. Pour a small amount of oil into the filter and rub a small amount of oil over the new oil seal ring to stop it wrinkling up when you re-fit it. Re-fit the new filter by hand until it is nice and tight.
**NOTE** This is tight enough. You don't need a tool to tighten it!
Check the sump plug is refitted and the oil filter is in place. Wipe clean any spills made during refitting.
Check your owner's manual for the type and amount of oil needed and refill the engine. Once filled walk away for about ten minutes before you check your oil levels. When it is correct start the engine, let it settle into a smooth idle then check under the vehicle for leaks from the sump plug and the filter housing. No leaks means a good job done. Lower the vehicle back onto the ground.
Give it two or three days of use and re-check for leaks and your oil level. No leaks and a steady oil level is a job well done. https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2002_Kia_Sportage_2.0L_4_Cyl._Sport_Utility_(4_Door)/oil/change_oil_and_oil_filter

It's pretty easy but you'll need to work under the vehicle, so make sure that the vehicle is on ramps or axle stands. Don't work under the vehicle just on a jack as it can slip & you can be killed.! Run the engine for 5 minutes to warm up the oil. Remove the sump plug & drain the oil into a suitable container. Remove all the bolts which hold the sump onto the bottom of the engin & drop it down. (sometimes there are additional sump bolts near the crankshaft which are on the side of the engine) You may need to prize the sump off. Do this slowly & carefully to avoid damage to yourself, the engine & to avoid twisting the sump tray. The oil pickup will now be seen. Remove the 1 or 2 bolts securing it. Wash it with degreasant or hot water & detergent Reftitting is the opposite of dismantling, BUT, You will need to clean-up both of the mating-faces of the sump & bottom of the engine. When they're clean, use a new sump gasket & a good oil-sealing gasket-sealant. Follow the instructions on the sealant about drying times. Bolt the sump back in position, using the correct bolt sequence & torque tightness. Replace the sump bolt. Fit a new oild filter & refill with new, clean oil.

You will need a sump plug removal tool.
On older vehicles, this was just with a wrench.
But it could be a special key, check the plug on the base of the sump.
Take keys from ignition (as you do not want to accidentally start an engine with no oil.
Open the oil filler cap, place a container under the vehicle (could be quite a few litres of oil to come out) and remove the sump plug.
Leave the vehicle to do this for a short while, until it all stops dripping out.
Now you would want to change the oil filter.
These are in different location, but you can get a filter wrench to wrap around to remove.
PRE FILL the new oil filter with clean oil before installing (This stops any air locks when you start the engine after the change)
Hand tighten the new oil filter, they do not need a great deal of torque to screw in place. so generally a good hand tighten is enough.
You may need a new washer for the sump plug (some oil filter kits come with this in the box)
Now that the new filter is on, and the sump plug is back on. Fill the engine with the correct amount and type of oil.
I do not know the exact amount you will need.
But it is better to fill a little at a time, check the dip stick for the correct level.
When you are at the correct level.
Run the engine for a few minutes at IDLE.
Stop the engine and check the oil level again.

You should be all good after this.

Also check again after a few miles, that the sump is not leaking, and that the oil filter is also not leaking.

Hi Dee Dee, you have a very messy job ahead of you, in Australia GM did away with drain plugs in the transmissions, Start with a service kit, this is a sump gasket and oil filter, you have to loosen the sump bolts starting from 1 corner, allow 1 corner or the sump to come down this will control where the oil comes out of the sump making it easier to catch the old oil, less mess, when oil is finished draining remove the remaining bolts and remove pan, At this point it is advisable to change the filter (hence the kit) because you must replace the sump gasket

Hi David, Some oil leakages occur only when the engine is running. As you've had the vehicle on a hoist lift and inspected underneath and discovered no major signs of leakage I suggest you start the engine and with the vehicle stationery, press the accelerator pedal so the engine is at about two thousand six hundred Revolutions per minute (RPM) With the engine running at that speed observe the exhaust. I believe you will then see bluish gray smoke being omitted. If I'm correct it will mean an engine rebuild as the smoke will indicate oil burn and defective piston rings. Indecently the usual cause is poor servicing and neglecting to replace the air filter. Regards John

You will find the oil drain bolt on the side of the engine sump.
It's the gold coloured bolt on the right hand rear of the sump pictured below:

Hi Anna
The problem could be your oil pan. I have found that the plug (bolt for oil changes) can become useless when the rubber seal of it becomes brittle. Now if it was the oil that started smoking the smoke you saw would have been blueish grey. Make sure that it wasn't your engine coolant as well which could have very well been overheating in the process.
Have someone check your oil pan for leaks and damages (could be damaged from sharp rocks or hitting obstructions with the underside of the car). Another thing i have had seen is that when an oil change was completed that the mechanic initially loosened the bolts around the oil pan and cought that mistake after the fact yet didn't retighten the bolts. Chances are however you will need to have the underside of the vehicle checked as the damage for that kind of oil release is very likely related to it...
Philipp
Tomorrowsdriver.com

if it is in the very bottom which is your sump then this is your plug it is usually a 17-19mm bolt or if its foreign it may have a torque bolt which has a square tool to undo it.
if unsure loosen the bolt a little untill a drop of oil comes out then smell this oil and if it smells the same as the oil filler cap inside then you know this is the sump plug

Hello!
I did a service on a Smart 2006 two seater, I had to drop the sump to remove the 0W 30 oil (As NO Drain plug) the filter is a paper one located behind the big black plastic cap on the engine with a huge nut shape on the top.
I have since purchased a oil suction pump to pull the oil out through the dip stick hole, I enquired at Smart and they said Sumps were in the process of having drain plugs fitted but I havn't seen one yet. Maybe you are a lucky one?
Oh! as for grade, it really depends on climate and conditions, your Spares supplier/stockist will have the Bible on all recommended lubricants for all makes so He/She will advise you the correct grade.
Hope this Helps!
Press the Blue Button please to appraise my FREE! Effort.
Thank You & Good Luck!
Paul 'W' U.K.

have you smashed the sump ??never seen one leak yet?? sure its not the front or rear end oil seals ??..sounds like you have the sub frame in the way ,evan if you remove this bolt you will not be able to drop the sump without removing or lowering the sub frame assembly as the oil pick up pipe stops you from removing the sump in situe.Its not difficult to drop sub frame just time consuming