My fog lights won't work but switch shows power, however when hit the switch can hear the relay on passenger side fuse box can hear it click does that need replaced

There are fuses and relays everywhere. You need an auto electrician.

https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me

1. main motor relay.

• IGN - ignition;
• STOP - brake lights;
• GAUGE - O / D valve, instrument panel warning lamps, 2WD-4WD switching valve;
• CHARGE - battery charging system (lamps);
• TAIL - side lights;
• ECU + B - (electric control unit battery) - electric control unit powered by battery;
• DOME - interior lighting;
• ECU + IG - (electric control unit ignition) - electric control unit for power supply from the ignition lock;
• DEFOG - rear window heating;
• HEAD (LH) - left head light;
• ENGINE - consumers - distributor, main relay, control units;
• A / C - air conditioner;
• WIPER - windscreen wipers;
• TURN - turn indicator system;
• HEAD (RH) - right head light;
• RADIO - radio;
• CIG - watch, cigarette lighter;
• FOG - fog lights;
• HAZARD - alarm, sound signal.

Fuse box diagram Toyota Town Ace Noah and ...

FuseAndRelay.com https://fuseandrelay.com > toyota > town-ace-noah

The main fuse and relay box in the passenger compartment is located under the dashboard, on the driver's side, behind the protective cover. Type 1. Photo - an ...

‎Location · ‎Type 2 · ‎Passenger compartment fuse...

Both fuse and relay are located in engine compartment fusebox.
Click the link below to go through fuse box diagram:----

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2013/02/nissan-fog-lamp-relay-and-fuse-box.html

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This will help.
Thanks.

faulty connection ,or check all your fuses from box,check fog lights fuse 1st,

There are several things that can cause your fog lamps to not work. The fog lamp circuits need to be diagnosed. Your entire fog lamp circuit can be tested at the plug for the fog lamp relay located n the relay box.

PIN 5 on the relay should have battery power at all times. This power comes from Fuse #43 (15 Amp) in the fuse and fusible link box in the engine compartment. If there is power at this pin, the fuse and the circuit between the fuse and the relay is good.

PIN 3 on the relay goes to the fog lamp bulbs. There should be continuity to ground through the bulbs on this pin. If you have continuity to ground, connecting a jumper wire between PIN 5 and PIN 3 should make the fog lamps come on unless there is a short circuit to ground, which will cause Fuse #43 to blow. If there is no continuity to ground on this pin, the problem is either that BOTH fog lamp bulbs are burned out or there is a break in the wire between the relay and the bulbs.

PIN 1 Is the battery power for the primary coil in the relay. This power comes from the headlamp switch and power is only supposed to be present here when the headlamps are on and the dimmer switch is on LOW BEAM. If power is not present at this pin, the problem is a bad headlamp switch or an open circuit between the headlamp switch and the relay.

PIN 2 Is the control circuit for the primary relay coil. The control circuit should have continuity to ground when the fog lamp switch is set to the ON position. If there is no continuity to ground with the fog lamp switch on, the problem is a faulty fog lamp switch, an open between the relay and the fog lamp switch, or an open between the fog lamp switch and ground E37 (right front of engine compartment) and ground F7 (left rear of engine compartment) Please note: This circuit has redundant grounds....if one ground is not making good contact, the other ground can still make the circuit work.

PIN 4 on the relay is not used.

If all of the circuits/pins are working as described above, replace the relay.

That is pretty much it... That is all you really need to know to get your fog lamp circuits diagnosed. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Dude messed up your wiring. Have the dude fix it properly.

check for a relay not a fuse,, have a friend hit the switch , and you can touch the relays to see which one is trying to switch

Hi obviously your fuse is ok as you can hear power going to the fuse box when you hit the switch hence the clicking noise, i suggest you check the connections on the back of the fog lamp and make sure they are not loose as this is a common fault, if they are loose simply secure them and your done.
Hope this helps
Steve

there is a fuse on the fuse box call ilumination, or cluster lights
that fuse is bad
it is also posible that you have no parking lights outside
remove the fog lights power from there you need to get power from the battery using a relay

http://www.accessconnect.com/fog_driving_lights_wiring.htm

If you have not replaced the headlamp with HID, the next thing, are the high beams on ?

If you turn the high beams on, the indicator lamp on the main headlamp switch should go out.

Next thing would be to check the fog lamp relay in the fuse panel ( passenger side kick panel by the fuel inertia switch ).

The fog lamp relay is a half size ISO relay, you should be able to swap with the trailer tow parking lamp relay ( R201 ), to test with.

The fuse you checked is the F17, the fog lamp fuse for Relay R202, correct ?

it is on the passenger side in that fuse box