I have a few ideas for you:
1) I know this sounds crazy, but try disconnecting the vehicle battery (both terminals) for at least 10 minutes, then reconnect them and try the remote again.
2) Replace the batteries in the key fob.
3) Take the circuit board out, wipe it down, and try again. Here is a video showing this process: How To Clean Your Key Fob Circuit Board
4) Reprogram the remote using these procedures:
1. Close all vehicle doors. 2. Insert the key into the ignition.
3. Hold down the power UNLOCK button on the driver?s door panel-continue to hold
down until instructed to release in step 9.
4. Perform steps 5 through 8 in fairly rapid succession.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (as far as you can go without starting the
engine).
6. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
8. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
9. Release the power unlock button on the door panel. The vehicle will lock and unlock
the doors automatically.
10. Hold down the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter simultaneously until
the door locks and unlocks.
This step may take up to 30 seconds.
11. Repeat step 10 NOW for each additional transmitter (including any existing
transmitters).
12. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position in order to exit the transmitter programming
mode.
5) Order a new remote from us online at https://www.keylessentryremotefob.com/Chevrolet-Suburban-Remotes-and-Keys-s/3679.htm
A GREAT ANSWER !
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SOURCE: Keyless Entry and Remote
I have had this problem take you drivers door put your key and un-lock from the out side with key (NO) then open the door push un-lock from the inside button and then set from you remote and it should set if not push un-lock then lock and then do the un-lock with the key. Let me know if that works. what my car did was locked from the inside and I had the problem were it would not work till I un-locked from the out side plus I had to go to radio shack and change the battery from the control.
Hope good happens.
Nikki2913
SOURCE: 2002 Audi A4 window/lock problems
I HAD SAME PROBLEM FIRST CHECK FUSES ON DRIVERSIDE THEN CHECK IF YOUR GETTING POWER TO YOUR DOOR (DRIVERSIDE FIRST) UNPLUG CONNECTER (A PILLAR) AND TEST IF YOUR GETTING POWER.THEN CHECK FOR BROKEN WIRES GOING INTO THE DOOR. I HAD A BROKEN WIRE JUST AS THE CABLE ENTERED INTO THE DOOR. HOPE I WAS OF SOME HELP TO YOU..IF NOT GET BACK TO ME AND I WILL DO WHAT I CAN TO HELP..
SOURCE: How do i program remote keyless entry?
You don't normally program a keyless entry, that's done for you by the technicians that install that. If the replaced battery doesn't solve the problem, take the battery and the remote to the techies that installed it.
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My old fob wasn't working so I bought new fobs. Still cant get the new ones to work and now i lost my old fob. My truck does everything like it's suppose when programming ( the locks cycle after holding unlock and turning switch to on/off twice and letting go of unlock button) but the last lock/unlock that let's you know the fob is programmed never happens. What am I missing? What . Can I do to fix this.
HYJACKING OLD 2011 POSTS
THE CAR STARTS AND DRIVE OK DAY /NIGHT
NO PROBLEM (A GOAL #1 ON ALL CARS)
KEYWORKS, STARTS AND RUNS
ONLY
THE CARS BATTERY IS FIRST NOT FOB COIN./
THE CARS BATTERY NEED TO BE GOOD
AND FULLY CHARGED, AND VOLTAGE OVER 12.6VDC. RESTED IS JUST THAT.
THEN ALL ELECTRONICS NO THE CAR CAN WORK
WHAT MEANS
keyless entry???
FOB DEAD STANDING OUTSIDE CAR.
DOORS LOCKED.?
EVER SCAN THE OBD2 PORT WHEN BUTTONS ON ANY FOB FAIL
NOW THAT WOULD BE MAGIC.
MOST FOBS 22 YEARS DO NOT WORK
NEVER SEEN ONE WORK THAT OLD ME.
BUTTONS LOVE TO FAIL ON ALL OF THEM.
OR WORSE STICK CLOSED
THEN ALL OTHER FOBS EVEN NEW AND GOOD FAIL
SO KEEP THE OLD FOBS AWAY FROM THE CAR
AND TEST THE NEWER ONES ONLY 1 NEAR THE CAR AT A TIME./
A FOB WITH A STUCK BUTTON IS NOW A FOB JAMMING DEVICE, NEVER FUN THIS.
i HAVE ONE HERE NOW, YEARS OLD
AND BUTTON STUCK AND ALL WHEN SOUTH
TO SOLVE THIS THE BAD FOBS WITH BAD BUTTONS I PULLED ITS COIN CELL FOR EVER.
THERE ARE TOOLS THAT CAN TEST FOBS
FOR STUCK ON. SOLD.
ON MY CAR THERE ARE MANY KINDS OF KEYS
THE METAL KEY ,ONLY WORKS ON DOORS ONLY
THE METAL KEY +PASSIVE ELECT STARTS CAR BUT NO BUTTONS.
AND A BUTTON ONLY FOB, DOES IT ALL.
BEST IS HAVE 1 OF EACH.
SOME AUTO STORES HAVE A TESTER
THAT WILL SHOW FAST 2 THINGS
FOB NOT DEAD (RF DEVICE) MOST ARE PASSIVE . TO THE TESTER BROAD CASTS AND KEY TRANS-PONDS.
OR FOB BUTTONS ARE STUCK ON.
IT WILL NOT TELL YOU THE KEY RF ID CODE
IS GOOD NOR MATCHES CARS KEY CODE TO START THE ENGINE.
ONE MORE HINT THE USERS GUIDE
TELLS YOU NO OTHER KEYS FROM OTHER CARS NEAR THIS CAR UNDER TEST.
NOR INSIDE THE CAR. JUST 1 KEY AT A TIME.
NEAR.
KEEP OTHER KEYS 25FT AWAY OR COIL CELL PULLED AND FOR SURE PULL COIN IF ONE FOB IS KNOWN BAD OR BUTTON SWITCHES INSIDE BAD.(STUCK OR CRACKED.)
What vehicle? same as above? 2002 suburban ?
An you did it like it says here
Transmitter Programming Procedure (Method 1 - No Tools Required)
Close all the vehicle doors.
Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder.
Press and hold the door unlock switch.
While holding the door lock switch in the unlock position, cycle the ignition ON, OFF, ON, OFF.
Release the door unlock switch. The doors will lock and unlock to confirm the program mode.
Press and hold the LOCK button and the UNLOCK button simultaneously on one transmitter. After a delay of approximately 15 seconds, the doors will lock and unlock to confirm the programming of that transmitter.
Repeat the previous step to program up to four transmitters.
Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position in order to exit the keyless entry transmitter mode.
Operate the transmitter functions in order to verify correct system operation.
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