89 ford ltd wont start got fuel spark new coil,dissy cap and leads

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according to my info, primary voltage to coil should go hot with key on, there is a fusible link in that circuit.

ignition module that sends signals to coil, check crank/cam position sensors as well as map sensor.

Is it getting fuel? try spraying some starting fluid in the carb, and see if it'll start!
if so, fuel pump may be bad!

alot of the 4 cyl vehicles spark plug leads are joined to distributor cap and come as complete assembly leads and cap.the new leads have cylinder numers on them and/or on dissy cap.
twist and pull to remove leads out of haed(spark plugs),remove 3 screws from dissy cap and replace.

couple of things
does the mustang have a ballest resisor fitted between the ign switch and the coil? in which case it should be a 9v coil or remove the ballest resistor to run a direct 12v feed from the ign switch, or just to test run a 12v feed direct from battery to coil.
the feed to the dissy is switched by the points opening unless you have electronic ignition,
but in both cases the capacitor/condenser may have broken down causing a consent feed hence given permenant live through the coil,
to test if you have points rotate engine so points are closed, put meter on coil and test if volts change when you open the points, or a spark out of ht to dissy lead
if electronic ign you will have to rotate engine or dissy to activate spark ,

hi i have a coupe 1994 have same prob told by audi to replace the distributor as was common failt on audi's i have replaced new leads ,coil ,dissy cap, and arm ,still the same awaiting on distributor to see if this works hope this helps

you'll have to reset the timing marks on cam and crank, check no1 is at TDC, and look at distrubuter to make sure it firing on no1.
if you split the hydraulic line, you'll have to bleed the line.
good luck. cheers !

check the voltage of the b+ terminal of the ignition coil (primary side) with a cheap multimeter while cranking. low voltage to the primary will cause low voltage on the secondary. also recheck all ground paths from the ignition module. ensure good connection from coil to module. note: new parts are not "known good parts" until it runs.--> IG.MOD.

If I am right, the firing order is,1-3-4-2. With the dissy cap removed, have someone turn the engine over so you can see which way the rotor arm goes. Set the engine to TDC and the rotor arm should point to the No1 cylinder at the start of the firing order. If it rotor points away from the No 1 cylinder then slacken the dissy housing and move the diddy until the rotor ppoints to the No1 cylinder. Now pHT lead from the No1 spark plug to the No 1 possition on the dissy cap. The next lead goes on the next available possition on the dissy cap in the way of the rotation of the rotor then to the No3 spark plug carry on the same with 2 and 4 and that should solve your problem unless you have a different firing order.

To check the Coil, pull the HT lead that comes from the coil to the dissy cap out of the dissy cap and hold close to the engine and with the ignition switch turned on earth the negative side of the coil. If there is no spark then the coil is the likely problem. If there is spark then check that the ignitor is recieving the signal from the pick-up (use an LED tester at the ignitor plug) the tester should blink as you crank the engine over. If the tester doesn't blink then check the output of the pick-up at the plug on the side of the dissy, if still no blink then check the pick-up clearance. If it blinks at the dissy and not at the ignitor the check the wires/plugs for breaks. If it blinks at the ignitor and there is still no spark then the ignitor is the likely fault.