Subaru Tribeca - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Have you by any chance added any LED bulbs to it anywhere? Climate Control and lighting is controlled by the BCM (body control module), and strange anomalies can happen if none OEM LED replacement bulbs are added to the system. The computer network doesn't understand the feedback caused by LED Control Modules. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

ALL ELSE WORKS CAR DRIVES?, HEATER AND A/C WORKS OK?

you cannot and the only ones who ?an fit batteries and re-programme the keys again is the dealer ,all vehicles from 2005 are like this ,its to stop people from doing it themselves and create easy cash for the dealers ,sorry i couldnrt help

Question edited for full year make model and spelling. Question moved from Seat (Spanish car maker) Pronounced: See-At. https://www.google.com/search?q=2014+Subaru+Tribeca.+remove+the+2nd+row+seats and https://www.google.com/search?q=2014+Subaru+Tribeca.+replace+fuel+filter ..

Chlorine in factory coolant has caused corrosion and damaged the heater core (there was a recall on this WWY-09 which my subaru dealer denied!) flushing wont help. Heater core needs to be replaced.

I would always go with the manual over what anybody else is telling you. But if you want to be sure you're putting in the right amount I find it best to use just slightly less than the quantity given in the manual as your starting point. So since it says 5.8 quarts, I would normally put about 5.5 quarts in. Then start the engine so that the oil gets pumped through everything and you'll get a more accurate oil level reading. Then use the dipstick to measure the oil level and see where it's at. Add more little by little until you're roughly in the middle of the min and max lines on the dipstick.

Sorry I can't tell you where or how but it is invariably fitted somewhere in the heater air intake in order to keep it cool as during use on the lower speeds it can become very hot. Most are fitted high in the intake but some are fitted near the motor where the intake narrows to take advantage of the higher velocity air flow.

It could be your abs sensor that is messing up with your traction control system and the cruise control I hope that helps

you can try out some guide from here reliable-store they also provide live chat feature for instant help and it's very useful

for heavy machinery cars etc. luckily there are many websites that can help you repair for eg site like reliable-store is very active in this.. instant help, emails and all that's fantastic

hello u will find a lot of wiring diagrams and circuit diagrams help books and stuff like this at reliable-store the girl in the chat box can help u instantly... im a frequent buyer there since Im a mechanic so take help from there

two seperate motors for the back and front washers

Get this manual online at www.reliable-store.com and get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc, along with wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, torque specs, error codes, everything.

Misfire in cylinders 1, 3, 5.

Yes, 86K is unexpectedly soon for a valve job. 200K is more likely. You've replaced the usual suspects, so its time to look further. Valve (or head gasket) problems can be identified with a dry and wet compression test AND a leakdown test. You really don't want to pay for a valve job (i.e both heads, gaskets and timing belt while you're there...) if its not needed. Other things to look for are vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks (odd effects can with these). Watch the coolant level: if its going down, its either leaking or burning == head gasket on the way out. Burnign coolant also creates while smoke. If the gas economy is way off, the catalytic converter could be damaged (unburned gas in the exhaust wrecks the cat).

You need a dealer, this is way beyond an amateur repair, comprendo?

Yes, fabrication of the necessary adapter brackets are required, and this will include welding.

No, it is not normal. Most people use only one foot when driving, no matter the conditions. However, in this situation I think you may be able to recover this issue by keeping your left foot on the brake, put the car in gear, LIGHTLY apply the gas then slowly remove your foot from the brake. However, I would strongly recommend that you take your vehicle to a shop that can service your transmission and see what they say. It could be just a simple adjustment.

It is not uncommon for us to think a shop had something to do with a car problem. Most of the time they do a really goo job without causing any damage to other parts of your car. For a simple oil change there's nothing in your car near the AC components that can be affected. If your AC is discharged then just pickup a can of R134 refrigerant with the gauge and hose included and charge the AC. It should be simple as the connector will tipically only fit the Low Pressure port of your AC. if it needs refrigerant just add it until you reach the green area of the gauge. If it does not need it then you should have it check as t could be one of many parts that could need replacement.

if manual ( not specified) reverse gear is a spur cut gear and will be noisy when engaged gets worse if the gear has been engaged inadvertently or slashed by mistake as small pieces of the teeth get chipped off and the result is a noisy reverse operation nothing to worry about til it starts to clunk as you are going in reverse