Subaru Forester - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 5

while you are at the garage , have then read the fault codes what there is on the turbo is a set of vanes in the turbine shell that redirect the exhaust gas onto the turbine wheel to give quicker response on acceleration at low rpms when running at rpms these vanes move to allow unrestricted gas flow to the turbine and to the exhaust system those vanes operate in very high temperatures and do become stuck and so don't move freely there is a vacuum operated actuator on the turbo housing that moves the lever for those vanes and that hose to the actuator gets hard and cracks or fails there is a sensor that controls that vacuum to that actuator people call different things by different names so one persons cold start is another person actuator or sensor the turbo can be repaired in an accredited turbo shop if that is the problem and that would be the only thing that could cost up to and around the price of a new turbo

Hello, Find a large open parking lot and then do tight figure "8's" with the steering wheel all the way over locked and then listen for noises from the front wheel area with your windows down and the RADIO OFF! When doing figure 8's with the steering wheel hard over each way when your doing the figure 8 pattern will bring out the bad CV joints and they will make lots of noise. Best to get a second quote from a front end shop and compare prices. You could call a local auto parts store and ask what the CV joint and shafts cost to get an idea on the parts prices. Good luck and road test that car in a large parking lot with room to do the figure 8 pattern. Dennis

On your next clutch replacement make sure you take the flywheel off and get it machined flat, install a new pressure plate and friction disk and replace the throwout bearing also...Don't be cheap and try to get by with just a friction disk...do it right and it will work for a long time. and take your foot off the clutch peddle when driving!

Try this linkie: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f151/help-wanted-buy-used-forester-scared-common-problems-51255/

never-- I repeat never --use a used car dealer to do repairs on your car The people employed are seldom qualified mechanics and they only know how to "bodgie" jobs just to get the car ready for a sale oil will not leak from a head if the engine is running well , but oil will leak from faulty rocker cover gaskets from your description, I suspect that when the car went in for the head gaskets a clapped out motor was fitted instead ( check engine numbers on the papers ) If you need a motor , there are plenty of good engines from japanese engine importers But at best do not have anything to do with that shop as the engine rebuild could be changing the engine back for your original motor

I would start simple and check the fuses and relays, also check the headlight switch to make sure your getting power out of it.

I had a 2000 with leaking fuel lines. There are a few molded rubber lines. Check the condition of the rubber and the hose clamps. If they are wet, you have a leak. When replacing use the good clamps that you can tighten with a nut driver

you need to check for fuel pressure next. Could be many things, but a fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator would be prime suspects.

If you have trouble in fixing your vehicles, try www.reliable-store com . Very helpful

There is a good one on line , you can download

is it at idling or full throttle ?

http://www.socojforum.org/forum/index.php?topic=759.0 Hope this helps

Hopefully your owners manual will have this info. My database won't have any info on a vehicle this new.

Try unplugging the MAF sensor, the check engine light will come on but the engine should run almost normally. If this is the case replace the MAF sensor. MAF's seldom set fault codes.

I have used a flat blade smallest jeweler's screw driver to release connector contacts before when not having the correct contact release tool. The release tools are basically a handle with a thin walled tube at each end, one for socket contacts, the other end for pins. A picture or two of the connector and contacts from each end would be helpful. I hope this is of some help to you.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Where+is+the+fuse+for+the+rear+defroster+on+an+03+trailblazer&biw=1360&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj-xrzT8rfQAhXH7SYKHWDVCxQQsAQIKQ#tbm=isch&q=1998+Subaru+forester+cannot+shift+into+park Hope this helps

rear of the car. Look near the fuel filler hose.

The pic attached shows instructions for the headlight and signal. for just the signal light start by removing the phillips screw (A) from the tab above the headlight. Without breaking that tab, carefully pry the unit out from the corner start at the fender edge use something thin and plastic like a disposable knife with the teeth smoothed off.. once its out twist then pull out the bulb socket. They usually have markings to show the direction to twist. The bulbs are mostly the glass press in type which click when installed fully.

See diagrams in the factory service manual: http://onlyrepairmanuals.com/downloads/subaru-forester-service-manual-2008-2013/

consider this when at the stop lights , you will have your foot on the brake as it will still be in drive or in gear and you don't want the car to move a simple test is to apply the hand brake to stop the car and don't touch the foot brake if it idles ok but cuts out when you apply the foot brake , replace the brake booster as it has a vacuum leak that is causing the problem you can do this test in the garage by starting in neutral and allowing the engine to idle , then apply the foot brake iof it dies it is the booster