Tip & How-To about Ford Ranger

Clutch bleeding

The problem with rangers and explorers is the angle of the master cylinder and slave cylinder.They tend to trap an air bubble inside the that is very difficult to remove.If you are replacing the master the you should completely bleed it before you install the new one.The way I do this is place it in a vice with the line attached and the line bungie corded to the floor, to hold it straight.Hold the resivoir in the air and add brake fluid till the bubbles stop( be patient).After bubbles have stopped pump the master using the rod , keep doing this till you cannot push in on the rod.If you cand push in on the rod there is air in the system.Then free the line from the floor and attach the slave to the line but keep it above the master so the air does not go back into master.Now have someone pump the master 4 times and hold it in , the brake the bleader loose making sure they do not release master so as to not **** air back in the line.Make sure to keep the resivoir full and continue to do this till you cannot compress master.Dissconnect the slave and install the parts.the system is bled.Good luck!

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1987 Ford Ranger will not shift except in 4WD low. Just replaced fly wheel and master cylinder. Bled lines thru master cylinder due to broke bleeder valve. What could cause this?
Yes. The line need to bled at the slave cylinder. But you said that the pedal is hard, that would indicate a problem with the linkage to the throw our bearing or the bearing itself.
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Nov 19, 2018 • Ford Cars & Trucks
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pt cruiser clutch diagram
I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.
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May 20, 2017 • 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser
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clutch pedal goes to the floor, will not release the clutch
Hello Henry.
There are a couple of possibilities.
First of all, check the fluid level in the reservoir under the hood. It is mounted on the firewall opposite of the clutch pedal. Remove the cap and pull the rubber boot out to fill it (with brake fluid ONLY!).
If it is empty there is a leak. It is usually one of two places. The master cylinder or the slave cylinder.
The master is mounted to the firewall and has a piston in it that pushes fluid through a line to the slave cylinder that is mounted between the engine and transmission.
Look for signs of fluid leakage and that will generally tell you which one needs repair.
The master on the firewall will usually leak on the inside of the truck where the rod from the clutch pedal goes to it and the slave will usually drip out the front of the transmission.

Hope this helps you to repair your Ranger.
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Oct 16, 2010 • 1997 Ford Ranger SuperCab
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3answers

2001 Ford ranger edge. The gears won't change.
The trans will need to come out. While your at it, just replace the clutch assembly, rear main oil seal, resurface the flywheel, and the clutch master cyl. Its not really a job you should do, find a repair shop to handle it.
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Nov 06, 2009 • Ford Edge Cars & Trucks
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1answer

clutch cylinder inside car is it broke
you have to bleed the air out of it. If there is not fluid leaking from the master cylinder on the firewall.it can leak on the inside of car or the out side if the master cylinder is bad.first make sure the reservoir stays full then open the bleeder on slave cylinder. this is called gravity bleeding. once fluid comes out, tighten bleeder, pump pedal one time loosen bleeder while holding clutch pedal down and then tighten. do this repeatedly until no air comes out. you can pump pedal several times,then hold and bleed however you like but I have better luck with individual pumps. just make sure that the lines hooked to slave cylinder are tight and there are no air leaks. and that the line does not go below the slave cylinder because sometimes air gets trapped in the lowest part of system.
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Jan 12, 2009 • 1996 BMW 318
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