How to heat treat metal

Torque settings Working on your car means you have to torque parts up when you fit them. Using correct torque levels is very important. Bolts will be tensioned when torquing up. Always use a torque wrench when installing parts on your car!
Too much tension means the bolt will be stressed too much and can ultimately break.
Not enough tension means the bolt can either run loose or it can move around. This will damage the bolt and it's brackets. This can ultimately also lead to catastrophic failures.
Only use 8.8 grade bolts in suspension applications. (wishbones, dampers etc.) 10.9 grade or even worse 12.9 grade bolts are hardened.

The hardening process will improve the maximum possible load on the bolt, but it will also make the bolt relatively brittle.

Within suspension parts, you would rather see bolts bend than sheer. 8.8 grade bolts have the tendacy to bend, any hardended bolts have the tendacy to sheer.
Below is a guideline to the torque levels used on Metric bolts.
Bolt grades are printed on the head of the bolt.
Bolt Size 8.8 10.9 12.9 A2-70 (Stainless) 6mm (M6) 9Nm 13Nm 14Nm 7Nm 8mm (M8) 23Nm 33Nm 40Nm 17Nm 10mm (M10) 45Nm 65Nm 70Nm 33Nm 12mm (M12) 80Nm 115Nm 125Nm 57Nm 14mm (M14) 125Nm 180Nm 195Nm 16mm (M16) 195Nm 280Nm 290Nm Note than when fitting bolts into Ally threads like rivnuts, manifolds and S1 uprights then the torque may need to be reduced.

Special note for Mr. Wiki - This is the thread size, not the head size.
Engine mount torque settings (K-Series) Nm RH engine mounting bracket to engine RH engine mounting bracket to rubber mounting RH engine rubber mounting to chassis RH engine steady arm bolts LH engine mounting bracket to rubber mounting LH engine mounting bracket to engine Lower steady arm bracket to sump Lower steady arm bolts Use Permabond A130(A912E7033V) on the sump end bolt on the lower steady arm
Front suspension torque settings (S2 K-Series) Nm Upper and lower wishbone pivot bolts Upper swivel joint to steering arm Lower swivel joint to plinth Steering arm to hub carrier Track rod end to steering arm Damper to lower wishbone Damper to top anchor bracket Damper anchor bracket to chassis Hub bearing unit to hub carrier Brake caliper to hub carrier Anti-roll bar rubber bush mounting clamps Anti-roll bar drop links Rear suspension torque settings (S2 K-Series) Nm Upper and lower wishbone pivot bolts Upper and lower swivel joint ball pins Upper swivel joint plinth to hub carrier Toe-link outer ball joint to hub carrier* Toe-link inner ball joint/wishbone to sub frame** Toe link ball joint lock nuts Damper to lower wishbone Damper to chassis Upper brake caliper to hub carrier (M10) Lower brake caliper to hub carrier (M8) Hub bearing unit to hub carrier Rear hub nut ,*Check batch number of ball joint is 43273 or later
,**Check batch number of ball joint is 43725 or later

You can use a torch to warm it up. You don't need to cut it off with the torch, but even a propane torch could loosen it up enough for you to get it off.

heat the bolt with a small propane torch and drill it out and retap it one size bigger tat should work i had to do it my self

Don't remember the size but they are likely grade 8 bolts not general hardware store stuff. See if you can get them from a junkyard (they usually discard them or cut off with a torch when removing control arm.

Good Day,

I've been in that same sitiutaion myself, best advice I can give you is to go to a hardware store and pickup some penetrating oil, liquid wrench makes a great penetrating oil. While you are there grab a small inexpensive propane torch. Soak the bolts with the penetrating oil for a few hours, then heat it up with the propane torch, repeat this process as necassry.

I hope this helps