Tip & How-To about Toyota Sienna

2014 Toyota Sienna Transmission filter and oil change

2014 Toyota Transmission Filter and oil change - sealed transmission (in your driveway)
Tools:
Jack and Jack stand
22 MM socket 3/8 or ½ inch.
10MM ¼ inch socket
10MM ¼ inch short socket ½ inch in length max
Long-nosed pliers
Lug Wrench
1 mason jar or measured container to measure old fluid
6 feet of ¾ inch clear tubing or transmission oil pump
Transmission fluid funnel
Shop light
Gasket scraper
Something to catch oil in
2 feet os thin wire, or string
Materials
Tape: Duct tape or masking tape
4 quarts Valvoline Max Life ATF Full Synthetic (Back label shows recommended for Toyota WS)
1 Duralast Transmission filter kit (TF637 in this case)
1 sheet 120 grit sandpaper

Note: This filter/oil change is being done while the vehicle transmission is the same temperature as the new fluid. Both have been sitting outside all night. Also, make an effort to capture all the fluid so it can be measured later.

Steps:

  1. Jack drive side front wheel and secure with jack stand. Make sure the vehicle is high enough to gain access and remove the transmission oil pan. Do not remove the wheel at this time. Pop hood.
  2. Place shop light so bolts on driver's side transmission pan are visible.
  3. There are 18 bolts. 16 are easy to remove. 2 are not = Driver's side front and rear corners.
  4. Locate and try to break loose the two bolts blocked by the frame. Use the short 10MM socket.
  5. The socket may not seat entirely on the bolts, so press upward while loosening.
  6. Once the bolts are broken loose, you cannot remove the bolts with the socket - the socket will lodge against the frame. Instead, use the long-nosed pliers to gently nudge the bolts loose. The bolts have a hex ridge running around the top and you can pinch in the corners of each hex and twist out. This is tedious, but works.
  7. If you get the two bolts out - proceed. If not, put it back best you can and get to a shop.
  8. Go ahead and take the wheel off.
  9. There is a plastic shroud to the front left- take out the 2 10MM bolts leaving one push fastener in place and just push to the side. This should expose the 22MM inlet for transmission fluid. Leave in place until ready for fluid
  10. Going back to the transmission plan. You can take out the drain plug and the overflow tube using a 5mm hex tool and drain the pan that way, but I just took off the pan being careful to loosen the bolts on the driver's side of the pan - those bolts between the two taken out previously. Place the oil catcher as best you can toward the rear / passenger side of the transmission and start removing bolts from the rear moving around the pan counter clockwise to the front and the front corner bolt that was removed in step 6. The goal is to let the pan drop to the rear/passenger side while still being loosely held in place by those bolts that were loosened earlier.
  11. Remove the remaining bolts; remove pan and gently peel old gasket off the transmission body; While transmission is draining: clean and remove an remaining gasket material from pan.
  12. Remove filter - two bolts. Shake oil out of filter into your container so you can take an accurate measurement. Note: There is a rubber ring that goes around the inlet tube inserted into the valve body that is part of the filter. Your kit may have one included, or it may not. Check to make sure the rubber ring is not left in the valve body. The rubber ring could be beveled, so take note of how it comes out. Before installing the new filter, make sure this rubber ring (kind of an "O" ring) is installed on the inlet tube of the filter - NOT in the valve body. OK, don't try and pound the inlet tube into the valve body. Instead, Align the filter and Insert the two bolts and alternately tighten each end a few turns at a time. The inlet tube should gently guide itself into the valve body - tighten 6- 12 ft lbs.
  13. Scrape off excess gasket material from transmission body. Sand where needed.
  14. Go to your clean pan; place gasket around the pan; insert bolts through the pan, into and through the gasket. All Bolts should be hanging from the pan and held in place by the gasket.
  15. Under the car, angle the pan up under the driver side frame and level it up - being careful not to knock any bolts out of the gasket.
  16. Line the bolts up with the holes and get the bolts started for the 16 easy bolts.
  17. Use the long nosed pliers to get the 2 tough ones started to the point where the short socket will fit on it. Now, just alternately tighten all 18 bolts. Torque 3- 6 Ft Lbs. I used 6 ft lbs.
  18. Once the pan is secure, take the 22MM bolt off the transmission; insert the ¾ inch tubing into the hole - making sure the tube is in far enough to be secure while not too far in as to block the flow of new oil; wrap the tubing and lip where the bolts goes with tape so it doesn't slip out easily. Route the tubing up and around the fender so you have the end of the tubing up by the hood flange. Insert the transmission funnel into the tubing and attach the funnel to the flange with some wire or string.
  19. Using the mason jar, measure the fluid you caught. I would measure 24 oz and then discard and so forth. Write this down on paper. And estimate any spillage as best possible
  20. Once you have a figure of what came out of the transmission, figure a way to measure the same amount to put back in the transmission. I cleaned and used the same mason jar for the new oil, I did not estimate based on the container markings.
  21. Gently pour the fluid into the funnel - making sure the fluid does not over flow out the top of the funnel and making sure you didn't push the tubing too far into the transmission causing it to back up. Take your time. Make sure the oil is flowing into the transmission. This is why clear tubing is preferred.
  22. Once all fluid is in, replace the 22MM bolt into the transmission; secure the plastic shroud - 2 10MM bolts.
  23. Put wheel back on; raise jack; remove jack stands; remove jack.
  24. Start car in park - check for any leaks
  25. No leaks; with foot on brake; run gear shift through Park; drive; neutral; and reverse 3-5 times. Making sure transmission engages and disengages.
Note: I used 105 fl Oz. Of fluid - as transmission drained fairly well, I measured 102 oz of fluid with approx 3 oz for spillage. So far, no leaks, no lights, no slipping, no strange gear shifts and no strange sounds.

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Bad transmission seal on a 2002 ford explorer

Drain the Transmission Fluid and Replace the Filter
Raise the car with ramps or a floor jack and support it with jack stands. Find the lower cover of the torque converter housing. Turn the torque converter until you find the drain plug. Place a drain pan beneath the drain hole, remove the plug and drain the fluid.
Remove the cooler lines at the transmission and flush them with compressed, low pressure air. Be careful during this step; fluid may shoot from the other cooler line.
Place a large drain pan beneath the transmission. Loosen the retaining bolts on the oil pan with a socket wrench until they are within a few turns of removal. If the seal doesn't break on its own, gently tap it with a rubber hammer. Fluid will drain from the edges of the pan.
Remove the pan retaining bolts when the fluid stops draining. There is still transmission fluid in the pan. Hold the pan carefully and drain as much as you can into the drain pan.
Scape the old gasket material from the mating surfaces on the oil pan and the transmission. Discard the old gasket. Clean the magnet in the pan. Clean the pan and the mating surfaces with a solvent and a clean, lint-free cloth. Replace the magnet and allow the pan to air dry.
Employ a socket wrench to remove the bolt that holds the filter onto the transmission. Some models may have two bolts. Pull the filter and any old seals or gaskets from the transmission. Install a new filter assembly, including any required seals or gaskets.
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need to replace oil pan on a bmw 2004 330ci

Raise engine with special tool 00 0 200 approx. 5 mm.
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Note: M52TU and M54 only.
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- Remove front end reinforcement.
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- Remove left and right swivel bearings.
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- Remove front axle differential.
- Detach brackets for left and right control arms from engine carrier.
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- Unfasten screw connection on front axle support and lower the front axle support.

Note: There is no need to detach the steering gear from the front axle support.

- Unfasten oil sump screws at transmission and engine ends.
- Lower and remove oil sump.
Sealing faces clean and free of seal debris.
Apply approx.3 mm wide, 2 mm high coat of Drei Bond 1209 sealing agent to the area around seams.

Installation:
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E60 Removing And Installing, Sealing Or Replacing Oil Sump (M54)

Necessary preliminary tasks. -
- Remove intake filter housing
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On vehicles with automatic transmission:
- Detach oil lines from automatic transmission and from oil pan.
- Unfasten oil pan screws at transmission and engine ends.
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Apply approx.3 mm wide, 2 mm high coat of Drei Bond 1209 sealing agen to the area around seams.

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Or take it to a dealer....

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Start the engine and let it idle for four minutes. This will help to remove as much loose particles from the transmission as possible Turn off the engine. Raise the front of the vehicle using a floor jack, and support the vehicle with two jack stands Apply the emergency brakes and block the rear wheels with two wooden blocks .Place a large drain pan underneath the transmission pan. Loosen the front and side mounting bolts from the transmission pan using a crisscross pattern. Then remove the bolts. Use a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.Loosen the rear mounting bolts from the transmission pan about 4 turns each. Pry the transmission pan open at the front using a screwdriver and let the oil drain onto the drain pan. Hold the transmission pan from underneath, using a shop rag as you remove the remaining pan mounting bolts. Separate the transmission pan from the transmission, and tilt it over the drain pan to remove the remaining oil. Discard the transmission pan gasket. This is were the filter will be located remove and replace filter and then. Clean the transmission pan with spray carburetor cleaner and a shop rag.Install a new gasket over the transmission pan flange Set the transmission pan in place and start the pan mounting bolts by hand. Start tightening the transmission pan bolts in a crisscross pattern, a little at a time, until all the bolts are tight. Use the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. Just tighten the bolts enough to create a seal between the pan and the transmission to avoid damaging the pan gasket.
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Heavy tools needed:
-Floor Jack
-Jack stands
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Hand tools needed:
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-1/2" drive breaker bar
-1/2" drive 10" extension
-1 1/16" deep socket
-1/2" drive 24 mm short socket
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Steps:
1)Put the wheel chuck behind your back tire and Pull up your e-brake

2)Find floor jack position

3)Lift car until you can fit jackstands under the car
4)Lower the car a bit so that it sits flat on the jack stands and the floor jack still has a bit of pressure pushing up on the mount

5)Locate the reverse sensor in your engine and unplug the grey connector on it.

6)Right behind it is a 12 mm bolt you have to remove. Use the deep socket 12 mm, extension and ratchet to remove it and just move the metal braket aside a bit.

7)Now use the 1 1/16" deep socket to remove the reverse sensor.

8 )Now get under the car and locate the drain plug.

9)Use the 24 mm socket and the 1/2" drive breaker bar (if your socket is 1/2" drive) and loosen/remove this bolt. This WILL be messy so make sure you have your oil catch can under neath it.
Try to hold the bolt in place as the fluid comes out until a good bit has drained. This will prevent it from going everywhere.
Just let it drain for about 5 minutes.

10)When it's done draining, replace the drain plug and tighten a good bit. It has an aluminum washer so it'll feel like it can keep tightening but just go until you feel it's very snug.

11)Lift your car off the jack stands and lower the car back down. Remove the oil catch can prior to doing this.

12)With car on the ground, grab your funnel and place it in the hole where the reverse sensor would go.

13)Add 2.5 quarts of your desired gear oil. You can use Redline MT90, Amsoil 75W/90 gear oil,...Just make sure it's GL4 compliant

14)Replace reverse sensor and tighten. Again, this also has an aluminum washer so just tighten it until it feels nice and snug. RECONNECT THE GREY PLUG!

15)Replace the 12 mm bolt and just hand tighten until snug.

16)Prior to starting the car, push the clutch in and move through the gears slowly. You should notice a nice, smooth gear transition.

17)Last, clean up, remove wheel chuck from rear tires, and go take it for a spin.

Enjoy!


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