Plymouth Cars & Trucks - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Age ;). But seriously, is car leaking or burning oil? Do you see any oil under car? Clean engine and try to locate when it comes from. There are many possibilities. From valve cover gasket to pinhole in oil pan or leaky seal on oil filter or drain plug.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Nov 29, 2020


Here is one;
https://www.classiccarwiring.com/1950-plymouth-cars-color-wiring-diagram/

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Nov 12, 2020


When pulleys are in alignment in both planes - check with a straight edge laid against the face of the pulley - the belt shouldn't come off.
By alignment in both planes it means the pulley grooves should be exactly inline with each other and the shafts the pulleys are mounted on should be perfectly parallel with each other - in addition the belt grooves should be in good condition and each pulley should be round and unbuckled.

In the old days it was necessary to adjust pulley alignment with shims and as many pulleys were pressed steel, a few were egg-shaped by small amounts and usually due to rough handling, some were like a buckled bicycle wheel.
It is many years since those checks had to be made as part of building an engine though whenever a belt-related problem is encountered it is time to dust off the old methods.

When the belt runs true it doesn't come off but there is another reason why a belt doesn't run true and that is belt chatter that is caused by a defective torsional vibration damper or crankshaft harmonic damper...

1991 Plymouth... | Answered on Oct 01, 2020


This is one of theose questions that I had to research over and over again for the same problem I had. I had a 1998 voyager and a 1998 caravan ,same van right? The voyagers belts would always come off when I hit a puddle of water hard enough or a fair amount of snow. The caravan was fine never had a problem. What I found out by researhing the problem is that the bottom crank wheel is the problem. For some reason they used two different types for the caravan and voyager. the crank wheel on the caravan actually has deeper grooves on it so the belt does not slip off the wheel as easy. I had to replace the wheel with one from a caravan and it fixed the problem. Another solution is to make sure the plastic housing on the bottom of the engine (splash guard) is intact and is tight to keep the water out. If you have a spot where the water can spray up and hit the belt on the bottom wheel seal it so it cannot hit it anymore. Make sure your belt is tight with the correct amount of play and replace the tentioner if needed.

Best of luck

Joe

1998 Plymouth... | Answered on Apr 13, 2020


the diagram is located under the cover of the fuse box.

1997 Plymouth... | Answered on Mar 23, 2020


Cindy your switch could be bad as could be your blower motor. I would run a hot wire directly to the blower motor first. If it runs the switch us probably bad. If it doesn't run the blower motor is probably bad.
Those are the two easiest to check and the most common to go bad since the fuse is good. Hope this helps you. If you want you can let me know what you find.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Mar 20, 2020


Check this Repair Manual
It will help you to fix your car
https://www.reliable-store.com/products/1999-plymouth-voyager-workshop-service-repair-manual?_pos=3&_sid=f08dd4c59&_ss=r

Copy the link and paste in the browser

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Mar 11, 2020


What is battery voltage with engine running? How long does it take to drain enough to prevent starting?

A 1990 Plymouth will likely not have parasitic power requirements. With ignition in off position the battery current should be zero (0.00 amps).

So using a current probe or shunt, with ignition switch in the off position, systematically remove fuses to identify the circuit draining the battery. Likely you'll find some after market add on (radio etc.) that is not installed properly.

Comment here with results and someone will assist further.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Mar 06, 2020


There are many reasons why an engine should spit back through the carb. I once encountered a Ford that had a worn exhaust lobe on the camshaft so the valve was barely opening - the engine ran very well until the throttle was opened. It is still a huge mystery how the owner had managed to drive it to my workshop.

The most common reason is a lean air/fuel mixture caused by one or more carb jets being blocked.

A thorough carb clean is a sizeable task that shouldn't be undertaken lightly and it is best practice to tackle it last after ensuring everything else is as the manufacturer intended it to be - from spark plugs and spark power/quality, timing, valve operation, fuel delivery quantity and pressure, etc., etc.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Mar 03, 2020


Oxygen and Acetylene is ideal but MAP GAS or Propane can be used. They just take longer to get red. Getting the part hot will expand the metal but turning the threaded area red will dissolve rust build up. Don't try to spin the part immediately. With two pairs of large pipe wrenches or two large vice grips. Rock the threads back and forth repeatedly. 6-8x will usually work the rust away and allow the tie rod to be spun off. Cranking and turning the tie rod in one direction sometimes causes the rust to build up and seize the threads again. Because of tolerances you may need to wait for the part to cool down before the threads will start to move. Hope this helps. Good Luck.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Mar 02, 2020


Check power distribution panel near battery for blown fuses.

1999 Plymouth... | Answered on Mar 02, 2020


You should have fuses for them and probably relay for blower . Check fuses, relay and check for power to your equipment. Check the bulb, power to and ground at the bulb. Check fuse to radio and power to radio. Check blower relay and fuse if it has one and power at blower. Did all this go out at the same time. If they did was some work going on which could have created wiring or short in wiring issues. The link below is for a 98 but some of it may be the same. If you have question about which fuse check them all but if you pull them out do one at a time. Try running the blower motor in all setting, sometimes the resistor will go out and the blower may only work in the highest setting.

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t16702_ds678813

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Mar 02, 2020


You are getting a fault message from the PCM that the wrong ignition key was used. This is part of the vehicle's onboard security system. This is part of the immobilizer system.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Mar 02, 2020


Door panel open drivers door and look on the dash to the left and pull it open

2000 Plymouth... | Answered on Oct 02, 2019


Mineral and vegetable oil brake fluids became obsolete many years ago apart from a very few exceptions and these were replaced by a universal glycol based type which is virtually the only type available from the majority of retailers.

Early glycol fluids had a relatively low boiling point and have been replaced by types with higher boiling points so currently there is generally two types available - in Europe these are DOT 4 and Dot 5.
DOT 4 is suitable for all clutch and brake systems (apart from a few exceptions) of low and medium performance vehicles and DOT 5 for the braking systems of high performance vehicles. Most people most of the time find DOT 4 a better all-round fluid and because the information surrounding DOT 5 (and 5.1) tends to be vague and suggests at least some are silicone based which can be harmful to some hydraulic seals.

The main problem with glycol based fluids is many braking hydraulic systems are vented to atmosphere and the fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs atmospheric moisture which lowers the boiling point. This is why a brake fluid change is part of the modern service and maintenance schedule.

1996 Plymouth... | Answered on Sep 16, 2019

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