Plymouth Cars & Trucks - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Check power distribution panel near battery for blown fuses.

1999 Plymouth... | Answered 3 days ago

You should have fuses for them and probably relay for blower . Check fuses, relay and check for power to your equipment. Check the bulb, power to and ground at the bulb. Check fuse to radio and power to radio. Check blower relay and fuse if it has one and power at blower. Did all this go out at the same time. If they did was some work going on which could have created wiring or short in wiring issues. The link below is for a 98 but some of it may be the same. If you have question about which fuse check them all but if you pull them out do one at a time. Try running the blower motor in all setting, sometimes the resistor will go out and the blower may only work in the highest setting.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Jan 12, 2020

You are getting a fault message from the PCM that the wrong ignition key was used. This is part of the vehicle's onboard security system. This is part of the immobilizer system.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Dec 26, 2019

check trans fluid level, will it go in reverse?

1999 Plymouth... | Answered on Dec 23, 2019

Oxygen and Acetylene is ideal but MAP GAS or Propane can be used. They just take longer to get red. Getting the part hot will expand the metal but turning the threaded area red will dissolve rust build up. Don't try to spin the part immediately. With two pairs of large pipe wrenches or two large vice grips. Rock the threads back and forth repeatedly. 6-8x will usually work the rust away and allow the tie rod to be spun off. Cranking and turning the tie rod in one direction sometimes causes the rust to build up and seize the threads again. Because of tolerances you may need to wait for the part to cool down before the threads will start to move. Hope this helps. Good Luck.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Nov 06, 2019

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Relieve the fuel pressure.
raise the vehicle and support safely
Drain the tank
Remove the screws that hold the filler neck to the quarter panel
Disconnect the wiring and hoses from the tank
Place a jack under the center of the tank and apply slight pressure and remobve the tanks straps.
Lower the tank and remove the filler tube from the tank.
Disconnect the vapor separator rollover valve hose and remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.
Using a hammer and a brass drift, tap the lock ring counterclockwise to release the pump.
Remove the pump from the tank with the O-ring. Discard the O-ring, pump inlet filter and inlet seal...
Hope this helps you???

1987 Plymouth... | Answered on Oct 13, 2019

There are many reasons why an engine should spit back through the carb. I once encountered a Ford that had a worn exhaust lobe on the camshaft so the valve was barely opening - the engine ran very well until the throttle was opened. It is still a huge mystery how the owner had managed to drive it to my workshop.

The most common reason is a lean air/fuel mixture caused by one or more carb jets being blocked.

A thorough carb clean is a sizeable task that shouldn't be undertaken lightly and it is best practice to tackle it last after ensuring everything else is as the manufacturer intended it to be - from spark plugs and spark power/quality, timing, valve operation, fuel delivery quantity and pressure, etc., etc.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Oct 05, 2019

Door panel open drivers door and look on the dash to the left and pull it open

2000 Plymouth... | Answered on Oct 02, 2019

Mineral and vegetable oil brake fluids became obsolete many years ago apart from a very few exceptions and these were replaced by a universal glycol based type which is virtually the only type available from the majority of retailers.

Early glycol fluids had a relatively low boiling point and have been replaced by types with higher boiling points so currently there is generally two types available - in Europe these are DOT 4 and Dot 5.
DOT 4 is suitable for all clutch and brake systems (apart from a few exceptions) of low and medium performance vehicles and DOT 5 for the braking systems of high performance vehicles. Most people most of the time find DOT 4 a better all-round fluid and because the information surrounding DOT 5 (and 5.1) tends to be vague and suggests at least some are silicone based which can be harmful to some hydraulic seals.

The main problem with glycol based fluids is many braking hydraulic systems are vented to atmosphere and the fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs atmospheric moisture which lowers the boiling point. This is why a brake fluid change is part of the modern service and maintenance schedule.

1996 Plymouth... | Answered on Sep 16, 2019

call your local library and ask if they offer free access to online auto repair manuals like alldata or mitchell on demand

1995 Plymouth... | Answered on Aug 21, 2019

here is no switch.However, it does have an ASD relay (ASD = Auto Shut Down) that controls both spark and fuel. This relay on your car is in the fuse/relay block under the hood and should be clearly marked as "Shut Down" or "ASD" on the fuse/relay chart on the cover. These are easy to check since there are often several different relays that are the same in that block. Take one from a known good source such as A/C (just make sure the numbers printed on the top of the relay are the same) and swap them to see if it will start.

1999 Plymouth... | Answered on Jul 23, 2019

1. Use a turkey baser to remove all the fluid from the reservoir. It's likely empty already if you did rear lines. Also, pack rags under the reservoir to catch spills.
2. Use a brake line wrench to crack the bleeder valve. (not OPEN, just see if it moves) Attach a 2' pc of surgical tubing to the bleeder. Run it into a jar. Pour 1" of fluid into the jar. I like to duct tape the jar to a board to prevent spills. Tape the tubing to the jar too.
3. Have a buddy sit in the driver seat. Have them tap-tap and hold steady pressure on the brake pedal. (you don't have to KILL it) When they say "K!", you open the bleeder. Note the passage of air bubbles and fluid into the tube. After about 4 seconds, close the bleeder and repeat. The first wheel will take a WHILE. Each after will be a bit quicker. Watch the accumulation and quality of fluid in the jar for a clue as to how you are progressing.
4. Top off the reservoir and repeat for the next wheel. Bleed, RR, LR, RF, LF (generally. some cars vary).

The pumper buddy must know NOT to drive the pedal past the normal distance or else he'll damage the master cylinder and it will have to be replaced. Also, he must know NOT to lift his foot before you close the bleeder, else he'll draw air back into the system. Just keep steady pressure. He'll feel the pedal drop as you open the bleeder each time. Takes PATIENCE.

They sell vacuum bleeders, but they suck. They're cheap tho.

They sell pressure bleeders and they are GOOD if you can find one to fit your car. They're expensive tho, like $60. MOTIVE makes one (I have it). These work by pressurizing the reservoir. That way you can bleed without a buddy. There's two methods with these. You can pour the fresh fluid into the pump and do the whole car without stopping. I find it messy. I like to top off the res and pressurize each wheel. MUCH cleaner.

Both systems work fine tho.

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Jul 17, 2019

Google Image the schematics and it will show you where it is

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Jul 13, 2019

Traditionally the hazard switch is where the direction indicators are switched from the indicator stalk switch and ignition switched supply to battery supplied hazard lights. By 1996 these functions were rapidly being computerised so taking things for granted is definitely unwise.

I strongly suggest you obtain a wiring diagram before getting too involved...

Plymouth Cars &... | Answered on Jul 09, 2019

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