2003 Toyota Corolla - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi Athol, Im AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair. Athol, the first thing to do is check all the fuses to make sure they are good. If they are all GOOD, then I would go buy one headlamp bulb just to see if maybe both high beams might be out. Only buy one bulb no sense in wasting money just in case this is not the problem. If you have high beams on the new bulb then go buy another bulb. If you DO NOT have high beam with the new bulb then I would suspect the high beam switch could be bad. NOTE: This is not always the problem because it could be in the wiring. Hope this helps and please visit my auto-repair-website at: http://www.bigasautorepair.com/

Battery could be losing power in cold weather. Check out the specific gravity of battery cells. You might also have a weak cell within it.

Need to check out your fuel delivery and ignition systems for proper operation.

It sounds like the fuel pump is going bad. If you had a fuel pressure tester you could check dead head pressure with the vehicle off and in the run position. A good operating pressure is about 41psi estimation. If you see the pressure drop right away and does not hold the pressure then the check ball or fuel pressure regulator is bad and you need to check those. Im giving proper diagonis procedures before buying somethimg you dont need. You can check a fuel pressure regulator with applying a vacuum to the valve and if the valve diaphragm holds pressure then it is good. Then all you have left is a bad checkball inside the fuel pump assembly. Unfortunately, if the ball valve is bad the whole fuelpump needs replaced. If you replace the assembly replace the filters too. A good tip to save the life of fuelpumps is to never allow the tank to run below a quarter tank because the fuel acts as a cooling system for the pump.

You are correct, you have 2 bolts to remove, one on starter side and one on transmission bell housing side, With the battery disconnected put a socket on the crank pulley use a breaker bar and turn the engine forward a little bit to see if you can break the starter loose that way, it almost sounds like the starter is stuck in the engaged position on the flywheel, so by moving the engine a little bit from the crank side might help the starter disengage from the flywheel. DO NOT use a hammer or crow bar, you will only end up breaking the transmission housing then it'll get really expensive.

The P1300 code is for the ignition coil No.1 and is set when there is no IGF signal to the ECM during engine operation. Possible causes: Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted - Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1 - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) God-Bless!

P0171 Trouble Code - YouTube

? 4:53 www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4wNywEo1o8 May 6, 2014 - Uploaded by richpin06a Toyota Corolla Chevrolet Prizm P0171 Trouble Code.

Have you changes the Transmission fuid or checked the level?

throttle cable problem open hood and follow cable from firewall to throttle body look at side for connections

list of airbag flash codes. 12=Low Battery Voltage 13=Air Bag Circuit Shorted to Ground 14=Primary Crash Sensor Circuit Shorted to Ground 21=Safing Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly 22=Safing Sensor Output Shorted to Battery Voltage 23=Safing Sensor Circuit Input Feed/Return Circuit Open 24=Safing Sensor Output Feed/Return Circuit Open 32 Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open 33 Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open 34=Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted 35=Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted 41=RH Primary Crash Sensor Feed/Return Circuit Open 42=LH Primary Crash Sensor Feed/Return Circuit Open 44=RH Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly 45=LH Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly 51=Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor Internal Thermal FuseFuse Blown Due to Intermittent Short to Ground 52=Backup Power SupplyVoltage Boost Fault 53=Primary Crash Sensor Circuits Resistance to Ground or Air Bag Diagnostic Fault

get the compressor checked I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/josh_8f8ad0a8f7e0e6d3

You have an at times fault which is loss of spark on all four cylinders. Worse case is the engine control module (quite expensive) so lets keep that for last cause. If it were to fail it would more than likely 100% of the time. Therefore the most likely causes are either a dirty connector or loose ground. See image 1&2 below to uncover coil on plugs. locate connector plugs common to all four plug wires. There are two junction connectors A & B. With key off remove connectors, check for bent pins and spray with DOXIT a radio shack product that is a great No Touch pin cleaner. Replace connectors. One wire from each of the four coil on plug wires leads back to the ECM (Electronic Control Module) Connector A (it is labeled). disconnect and perform same procedure using spray. Reconnect...you'll need to clear codes by disconnecting positive battery terminal for 3 minutes. Test run vehicle to see if troubles have cleared...If not; do you have a multimeter and a wee bit of experience using one? If so put on lowest ohm setting...Hold one terminal on the negative battery terminal...right on the post...Hold the other on bare metal of chassis as in fender...record reading...While holding lead on battery terminal move the other lead to metal of engine block...record readings...Must be close to zero ohms about 1 to 200...If readings are around 2000 ohms the car has an inadequate ground...If so send me a [email protected]


I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Sounds like possibly low-grade gas causing knock, or preignition. You may have corroded connections to the knock sensor so it is not working correctly. I would take it buy your favorite auto parts store and ask them to read the ECU error codes.

Hi there Take the number off the old one and give them that and you should be ok.

radio fuse is on left side under the dash . remove the side panel and find the fuse for radio good luck

Its possible the remote code was changed after install which required a learn and the learn was erased when battery power was lost. If this is an add-on aftermarket alarm system, the best hope is that somewhere under the dashboard or near the left kickpanel by the floor you see/find a small button mounted there. This is usually the most common install for the override switch by most alarm installers. Turning the key to the ON position then pressing the button and holding for 2-5 seconds will shut the alarm down in most cases if it has such a button. If it does not have a button, or this is a factory alarm system, its possible the alarm control module fuse has blown or the module itself is stuck or failed, or the receiver for the remote is not seeing the remote. Recheck the connections at the battery, if its an add-on alarm there may have been a constant power loop attatched to the cable that is required to power the receiver/module and was accidentally left off. checking all fuses may also yield a blown fuse that feeds the alarm system controls.

Two things it could be toyota has ac relay to turn clutch on compressor if that's is ok the compressor is failing on the bottom of compressor there speed sensor that's why is bad but most people replace compressor. Because of labor cost. To be sure to fix"replace cxompressor .ck to make sure clutch is engageing thank you and food luck p

It sounds like your problem is in the starter motor solenoid. That is what is responsible for engaging the starter motor to crank over the engine. Nowadays the solenoid and the starter motor are a unit. You could attempt to repair the solenoid but most technicians would go ahead and replace your starter (the solenoid and the motor). However, having said that it is important that you check your connections to be good and clean and your battery to be charged.

pls check whether the Radiator fan is running when the ignition is switched on. If so, it means the Engine coolant temperature sensor is out. Replace this. Then the AC will work. This is one of the reason. Check the thermister, pressure switch, wiring harnes and the ecu. the relay etc.,

code p1349 refers to variable valve timing system--LH bank --malfunction===causes --valve timing--oil control valve---valve timing control module---ECM Check the control module first