Top 20 2002 Toyota 4Runner Questions & Answers

Sorry my friend but a transmission rebuild in in your future OR a new SUV!.

If it's just one light that went out most likely a bulb you will have to remove cluster to get to the bulb on the back side

Since all of the EVEN Cylinders are misfiring I suggest checking the timing belt as it has likely slipped on that bank of the engine.

If it's the door handle that's broken, you will have to remove the door panel to get access to the remove or replace the handle. Hope this helps.

Hello Friend, Since 1996 these ports Must Be within so many inches of the steering column. A little birdie just told me that it should be just above your right knee while sitting in the vehicle. Look for it to be pointing downward to keep dust and gunk out of the socket. Up and to the right of the gas petal. Best Regards from Wade

have a auto check it out and run proper diagnostics 2 reset the codes via computer

First thing to try is to shake the steering wheel clockwise-counterclockwise while turning the key.

Turning over and not starting means one of a few things. It's a basic problem with a relatively complicated answer. At the basic level, your engine needs fuel, air and spark to run. I'm guessing you have a 5VZ-FE 6 cylinder engine. It has 3 coil packs that fire 6 spark plugs. Those are most likely not your problem since you would have to destroy all 3 of them for it to not run at all. My guess is your problem is a blown fuse, loose ground or dead fuel pump. Those are the most common issues. Your fuse box is on the passenger side fender liner, under the hood if I recall correctly. Open it up and look for a broken conductor on the fuses. Some you have to look from the top and some it's best done with a flashlight shining from one side while you look for the fuse conductor from the other. You can also get a test light, clip it on ground and probe both sides of the fuses. If one side lights your light and the other doesn't, that fuse is blown. The only remaining possibilities are defective relay or PCM and those are rare.

It's often a loose or defective gas cap causing the trouble with Evap systems but that usually brings in a P0449. There's a leak in the vacuum circuit between the intake manifold and the fuel tank that causes P0449. A little background on the system: This code deals with the "Evap" code group. Evaporative Emissions. The engine vacuum is used to place a vacuum on your fuel tank to prevent the harmful fumes from being released into the atmosphere. Instead the fumes are run through the engine, being burned and after going through the catalytic converter are considered much less harmful to the environment. Also part of the system includes a vent valve and solenoid. The vent valve is responsible for helping control the level of vacuum in the tank. The solenoid is electronically controlled and used to also control the level of vacuum in the tank. There is a sensor in the tank that provides feedback as to the vacuum level. Any of these items being defective will bring in your code. Rock Auto offers a replacement solenoid for around 30 dollars. If you wish to avoid taking it in and want to try throwing parts at it, that's the easiest to try. It's called and "evap solenoid" It will be on top of your intake manifold, seen after removing the cover and have 2 wires going to it. I often see the plug have a red wire retainer on it. It will be plugged into a black cylinder shaped piece with 2 vacuum connections, one in and one out. There is a white clip on the connection. Push on one side of that white clip to release the vacuum connections. Best of luck.

you are probably best to contact a toyota dealer as this could be related to the battery change and now car thinks its being stolen as you dont have key fob which sends random codes to the security system

post a photo with finger pointing to object humming. we can not ever guess this. there are 3000 parts on the car, and ive seen like near each make noise moving fast, 1 time the other. 1: check all fuses 2: makes sure battery voltage is at 12.6vdc rested, key on still close to 12.6vdc , still makes hum.? my guess is the battery is drained but no proof, im not there use my voltmeter.

Remove the master & clean out the bore & junk on the piston, then have a helper push the pedal when you open the bleeders Mostly air still in there,as long as the flex hoses are not collapsed inside or the caliper pistons rusted & you removed ALL rust from sliding surfaces & used anti-seize on those areas If the system is not flushed every 2 years on ALL vehicles, you can have moisture issues,hopefully not the abs hcu unit It won't come into play until your doing 16 to 22 mph, depending on the vehicle & it's strategy

Use a bottle of yellow HEET dry gas / fuel dryer to remove moisture in your fuel tank.

every 60k if opr.guide says 60k or 90k on others lost the guide? ok, lost it. look here too. there,one file, and works on any car..... 90k, every and is INTERFERENCE Engine, belt slip engine goes boom. (bend valves at least) http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?file=GatesTBR.pdf&folder=brochure

u need a scan test & diagnosis,not keep replacing partsyr mechanic he needs to back to school.go to the dealer to get it fix right.

CHange the relay

there is a fuel reset switch in the trunk

did it run before you changed both > ? call the dealer there might be a reset button for the fuel pump under the passanger side kick plate in the cab .im guessing on this one pal read owners manual for a reset fuel pump button.

use a code reader for this job.

No way-- not without factory diagnostic manualsYou may have gotten then some how without professionalsoftware but need the trouble charts to diagnoseI would look at enhanced data on a scanner,not somethingyou have at homeTry to Google them-- I saw a couple there