20 Most Recent 1997 Toyota RAV4 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Okey--- & we need a lot more that to suggest anythingDo you work on you own cars,I would guess not,just askingAny codes checked & present?Any testing done?Anyone just work on it & make things worse?Loss of power under what driving conditions?

Check the condition of the following:1) Spark plugs, leads and coils2) Air filter3) MAF sensor (mass air flow sensor)4) MAP sensor (manifold air pressure)

Have you check for blowin fuses?

The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.

One of two things has probably happened. Either you have water in the distributor cap or you have water in the spark plug tubes. Both of these are an easy fix. Pull the wires off the spark plugs and check to see if there is moisture in the tubes or on the wires. If there is you can either blow it out with a blow gun (if you have an air compressor) or you'll have to do your best with rags and paper towels. If using paper towers it may not be a bad idea to leave the wires off over night to let the moisture evaporate. Next remove the distributor cap and see if there is moisture in the cap/distributor. Once again it can be dried with a blow gun. You can also use brake cleaner to help remove the moisture from the cap. Make sure the brake cleaner has dried before reassembling as it is flammable and there is open spark inside of the distributor. One or both of those should solve your issue. If not let me know and i'll see what else we can figure out. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Its not just the light, you are not using all of the gears. Some of these vehicles have computer hookups which will diagnose the internal trans problems.Check your trans fluid of course, but get the vehicle tested. Some tests are free at Autozone or Advance autoparts.Many of the new vehicles use electric solenoids to shift with; the Overdrive is tied into the Torque converter lockup.Please rate my solution.

Check shifter cable, How far is the clutch depressed when your trying for first? Something could be binding, look under the auto, around the ****** while someone else tries to shift it into 1st. **NOTE, do not do with auto running and block wheels and set emergecy Brake before anyone crawls under auto!!** Friendly advise 8 )

possibly but without further details we can not diagnose the problem

Try locating the Fuel pump relay. If the solder looks poor or has small cracks resolder the terminals.LPG