1995 toyota camery is there a fuse or relay for the fuel pump
Posted by mackbagwel... on
The fuel pump doesn't have a single designated fuse, it gets electrical input voltage from several sources, the fuses tart you need to check are the 7.5A ignition fuse, the 15A EFI, the 15A starter. There are two relays that are involved, the circuit opening relay located behind the glove box and the EFI main relay located in the fuse box under the hood, the most common problem when there is no fuel pressure is the fuel pump, check all the fuses and substitute the two relays to see if it solves the problem.
Posted on Nov 19, 2010
My husband took my car and took his remote for his Camry and I am trying to remember how to turn the alarm off manually so I can drive the camry without the alarm going off. Haven't had the remote in ages, and the alarm tends to go off every now and then. Usually just remove one of the battery cables, and it'll work once again. Now, however, it doesn't work, and the car is just parked at my husband's job, and we can't figure out how to turn the car off so that it will drive again.
Posted by kmr1763 on
If the alarm is a "factory" alarm, cycle the key in the ignition from off to on (where the dash indicators light up), 5 times. This is the reset proceedure for the "factory" alarm.
Posted on Nov 04, 2008
radiator fan not working on my 95 toyota camry
Posted by giggles... on
It could be:
- blown fuse (RDI -M fuse, 30A, in Relay block 5)
- failed relay (fan relay, same location)
- failed engine temp sensor (quite likely)
- broken wiring connector
- failed fan motor (not that likely)
Test procedures are here, after p261
Posted on Dec 26, 2011
I took out a fuse when I put it back in Air Bar Light won/t go out
Posted by Steve... on
I haven't had to try this but here is a procedure for resetting the airbag after the battery was disconnected
"How do you reset the airbag warning light in a '94 Camry?
A: Clearing the warning light in '92-'96 Camrys by the following procedure:
In the DLC1 or DCL2 (data link connector under the hood, see attached diagram):
Use two short wires, one wire at terminal TC and a different wire at terminal AB:
With the ignition key ON - wait 6 seconds, then:
Ground terminal TC to good body ground for one second
Then ground terminal AB for one second
Then TC one second
Then AB one second
Then ground TC until the light blinks.
Make sure the interval between grounding the terminals is not more than 2 secs.
Remove the ground wires.
Be very careful to only use the correct terminals.
Posted on Aug 11, 2012
when I turn on the ignition, the starter makes whining noise and the car woudn't turn over
Posted by nick nick on
sounds as if your starter isn't engaging,usually due to either the solenoid not operating the bendix or a bendix fault, to prove a point, if the vehicle is a manual, put it in gear, handbrake off and push the car forward ( which will turn the engine into a different possition) then put h/brake on out of gear and try starter again, if it tries to turn over its possiby the starter ring gear, if not it's starter.
Posted on Oct 18, 2012
could a bad neutral safety switch cause my car not to start
Posted by hallm694 on
HI. Yes, this is possible, but there are other reasons for this issue, as well. Use this step by step troubleshooting procedure to help isolate the issue. Step 4 deals with the neutral switch issues.
Check for 12 volts on the large wire attached to the top terminal on the starter relay. It should have battery voltage. If not, the battery, terminals or wire is bad.
Check the small wire on the solenoid for power when the key is in the start position. Remove the small wire on the solenoid and have a helper hold the key in the start position. Check the wire for battery voltage. If there is voltage, the starter is bad. If there is no voltage, replace the wire.
Check the fuse in the fuse box under the hood on the left fender well. If it is good, check the relay by pulling it out and checking for power at one terminal with the key off. If there is no power, the problem is in the fuse box between the fuse and the relay. If there is power, have the helper hold the key in the start position once again and check for power at another terminal from the ignition key. If there is power, the relay is bad. If there is no power, the starter circuit is suspect.
Check to see if there is power to the neutral safety switch if there is no power at the relay. Use the voltmeter to check for power with the key in start. If there is power going in, check for power going out. If there is no power going in, the security system or ignition switch is suspect. If there is power going in and none coming out, the switch is bad. If there is power coming out, the problem is between the neutral switch and the relay.
Remove the cover on the bottom of the steering column. Check the solid yellow wire for power when the key is in the start position. If there is no power, the ignition switch is bad.
Posted on Dec 16, 2009
where is the thermostat for 1995 toyota camry v6 located
Posted by lacindam04 on
the thermostat is located driver's side of the vehicle. Follow the upper radiator hose to its end to a water outlet housing. the thermostat is in the outlet. take off the air flter lid and hose and it is easier to get to. take the hose off and the metal line to the housing. the other part of the housing is holding the thermostat. it is held with two 10 mm bolts. good luck.
Posted on May 26, 2009
do I have to remove the timing belt cover
Posted by Terry... on
Im working. On 1995 camry and there is no crank sensor rhd
Posted on Jul 17, 2018
the ignition key wont turn to start the car
Posted by dandjschub... on
is it correct key? key and ignition barrel could be worn wiggle key around in ignition while turning? gently but fast wiggling.try lube in key slot also.
if not replace barrel and key
Posted on May 31, 2009
My car's trunk wont lock or close at all. What do I have to do take it to a auto shop or what? I dont know the cause or maybe the lock is broken.
Posted by maixiong... on
Just like any door that closes, the trunk latch is comprised of two parts: one is a mechanism or latch, the other is a plate or pin that the latching mechanism catches it on. At least one of these is adjustable, and most if the time, both are adjustable. Check either of these parts, and see, if you pull or tug on them, if they move or wiggle. Chances are that one has worked itself loose, and needs to be readjusted. Or, you could have some debris or foreign particle in the latching area preventing it from fully engaging the catch. Another scenario is that somehow your latch has become "pre-engaged" and therefore will not catch, if it is not open to receive the counterpart.
If none of these apply, then check the latching mechanism, see if you can get it to "latch" by hand, so you can see if maybe a spring or something has fallen away. Then again, if it is man-made, it will break eventually, maybe that's the case here.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 08, 2010
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