20 Most Recent 1994 Toyota Corolla - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Take all the spark plugs out and bring #1 piston up to TDC. Look at the timing mark on the pulley. If they don't line up, then timing has jumped. If that's the case replace the chain and both the cam and crank gears.

Number 1 is closest to the front of the engine. The front has all the pulleys and the serpentine belt.

Look for missing rubber parts around where that attach points are for the sway bar. Grab the sway bar and try to move it in any direction. If it moves then some rubber parts need replacing. There are rubber parts in the shock tower too. Age shrinks these parts, so look there too. Bearings don't make a clunking type noise, more of a grinding noise. To check a bearing. jack up one side till the tire turns freely. Grab the tire at the top and push and pull it towards you. Excessive play suggests a bearing is worn. Spin the tire. If it rolls slowly and stops abruptly , it's bearing time.

If you can, air dry the complete engine compartment where you used water to clean it. Possibly a few electrical connectors to the ignition system are wet. If you can disconnect these and air dry them, it may help. If you have not performed any type of maintenance like tune up, good time to do so.

Possible brake light switch

The AC solenoid isn't working. When you turn on the AC this solenoid on the throttle will kick the idle up a little to keep it from stalling when you let off the pedal.

This vehicle does not use points, it has a solid state magnetic pick up to trigger ignition. Try changing the air filter. A dirty air filter can put the MAF ( mass airflow sensor) out of range.

absolutely, thought my dads truck was locked in antitheft mode after he disconnected the battery, turned out to be a blown fuse.

BBB Industries should have the TSBs and wiring diagrams for this as well .

If you removed the tensioner and didn't lock the cams and crank down then you have to re-time the engine. It sounds like you let the exhaust and intake cams move. Remove the spark plugs, put a ratchet on the crank pulley, slowly rotate engine until the cams line up. Once the cams are lined up remove, the timing belt and bring the crank around to the timing mark. put belt back on and let the tensioner go. put plugs back in...see if it'll start.

Before the ECM turns the fuel pump on it needs to see a starter signal, indicating the engine is cranking and also an rpm signal from the engine and spark confirmation from the igniter circuit.

Take a compression test on # 4. It may be a little oil burning w coolant getting by the head gasket. POSSIBLE faulty injector or not firing on time. Ck for any oil in the anti freeze or anti freeze in the oil.

Is that a freeze plug that is rusted out? If so, replace it.

Your radiator may have a hole or crack there for loosing water fast. It could also be a leak from the water pump or hoses. Park it on concrete or similar and see if you can see drops of water directly under the radiator or around and along the hoses . Also feel around the water pump for water. Also check the heater tap and hoses, If your unable to see or feel water in these areas pull out your dipstick and check to see if the oil is normal or if it's milky. If it's milky your head has a crack in it or the gasket has failed I'd say it'll be a radiator water pump or hose leak though

I can't read that, sorry, copy the data and post it.

O2 sensor is normally sticking out of the exhaust manifold

You should be able to file for a waver its 22 and a half years old depending on your state laws