Top 20 1989 Toyota Corolla 2 Door Questions & Answers


Sounds like a vacuum leak. Make sure there are no ports open on the intake manifold that looks like a hose is missing.

1989 Toyota... | 155 views | 0 helpful votes


Mass Air Flow sensor OK? right by boot. Check for clogs and dirt on pins

1989 Toyota... | 119 views | 0 helpful votes


could be any type 1989 toyota corrolla
ae2 or a MR FWD
try this site
http://opc.mr2oc.com/online_parts_catalog/1989CorollaFWD.pdf

1989 Toyota... | 61 views | 0 helpful votes


I have never seen a rotor that needs the axle nut removed do you have a picture and have you removed the caliper and caliper bracket it may be rusted enough to cause it to look that way

1989 Toyota... | 98 views | 0 helpful votes


I don't have the figure you need on file but i seem to remember the bolts are 6 mm, though it has been a while since I saw one of those cars.
Valve or cam cover bolts aren't usually torqued because they aren't critical and it is a matter of letting experience and good sense prevail.

If a torque figure is really wanted then it will be a matter of just a few pounds-inches. There are charts a-plenty freely available that will provide you with the maximum torque suggested for any size of bolt but again good sense must prevail and the actual figure used in practice, especially if the bolt is oily will be probably only half of the maximum.
For a 6 mm bolt this will be in the region of 25 inch-pounds.

1989 Toyota... | 248 views | 0 helpful votes


Sounds like a head gasket. Not good news I am afraid.

1989 Toyota... | 68 views | 0 helpful votes


If you give it time to cool off between starting attempts, it should hold up to it. If you use the starter for 15 seconds trying to start it, then give it a full minute to cool off before trying again.

Do you have compression in all cylinders? That and spark and gas is all a good-timed engine needs in order to run. Actually I would do it in this order: check for spark going to the spark plugs, if good, check that gas is getting into engine (carb or fuel injected? you would see gas coming out of either one- down the throat of the carburetor, or out the bottom of the fuel injector in a cone pattern, while cranking the engine over and watching). If spark and gas are good, then better check compression. See if your work really sealed the cylinder chambers. A compression test will verify this. Cause the next thing you will have to check is if the valve timing is right. You will need to make sure the timing marks are spot on. This may be a tedious job. Removing a few parts to check the timing marks.

So just remember, spark, gas, and compression. that's what the cylinders need to fire and run, but the timing has to be correct.

1989 Toyota... | 121 views | 0 helpful votes


not really sure but i think most cars have a gallon or two but i find it better not to push my luck

1989 Toyota... | 73 views | 0 helpful votes


could be 2 reasons.
1. start of a head gasket leak to the combustion chamber. Will become more white and for longer period as it gets worse.
2. oil rings are worn and starting to pass oil to combustion chamber. They seal up once engine is worn.

1989 Toyota... | 126 views | 0 helpful votes


Please do the following:
- Check resistance of the high tension cords ( DMM selector range on 10 K or 100 K Ohms, resistance reading = 10 - 25 K Ohms)
- Check rotor for damage, cracked or broken.
- Check the distributor cap for cracks or corroded terminals.
- Check the ignition module inside the distributor assembly.
- If the problem persists, replace the distributor assembly with a good known one.

1989 Toyota... | 81 views | 0 helpful votes


colt?
bakkie?
this a Toyota. corolla?
wrong forum?

1989 Toyota... | 249 views | 0 helpful votes


Heater core may be partially plugged. Also check the heater control valve to see if it's letting water into the heater core.

1989 Toyota... | 214 views | 0 helpful votes


its in in the FSM and the operators guide.
old car.
id look it up at alldata.com

guess at 10a. (reverse lamps) some one stole yours. or found a 30 there.(wrong)

1989 Toyota... | 24 views | 0 helpful votes


You would first need to jumper the relay to make sure the fan can run, and then check the relay circuits for power and a ground signal from the computer. The computer grounds the relay when the fan is needed.

1989 Toyota... | 303 views | 0 helpful votes


'96 or '89... Usually near the thermostat location.
There is one for the computer and one for the temp gauge.
Ground one of the wires to see if the temp gauge "pegs".

1989 Toyota... | 870 views | 0 helpful votes


There are several faults that give this indication. 1 is that the positive battery lead has a build up of lead sulphate on the inside of the terminal wqhich shows up as a thick black coating. The same will be on the bat terminal. Clean with course sand paper / file etc until the areas are shiny lead (silver) next the starter commutator may have a dead bar which means that the current will not flow through the armature making it turn. This can be checked by taking a jumper lead and momentarially shorting between the 2 main terminals on the starter. The motor wont move but the starter will spin . That narrows it down to the solenoid. When you turn the key the solenoid is energised and pulls the starter clutch into the ringear first and then bridges out the two main terminals just like you bridged out the terminals with the jumper lead. They have atendency to burn out the copper inside but you should hear the clutch gear hitting the ring gear. If nothing then I would say that the solenoid is at fault. You can replace it with a replacement part but be careful that you reassemble it exactly as you removed it.

1989 Toyota... | 187 views | 1 helpful votes


1988-95 MODELS
See Figures 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11
This service procedure is for setting base ignition timing. Refer to underhood emission sticker for any additional service procedure steps and/or specifications.
These engines require a tachometer hook-up to the check connector-see illustrations. NEVER allow the tachometer terminal to become grounded; severe and expensive damage can occur to the coil and/or igniter.
Some tachometers are not compatible with this ignition system, confirm the compatibility of your unit before using.
  1. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Turn off all electrical accessories. Do not attempt to check timing specification or idle speed on a cold engine.



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Fig. Fig. 6: Attach the tachometer to the battery and check connector terminals

  1. Connect a tachometer (connect the tachometer (+) terminal to the terminal IG- of the check connector) and check the engine idle speed to be sure it is within the specification given in the Tune-Up Specifications chart or underhood emission sticker.
  2. Remove the cap on the diagnostic check connector. Using a small jumper wire or Special Service Tool SST 09843-18020, short terminals TE1 (test terminal No. 1) and E1 (earth-ground) together.
  3. If the timing marks are difficult to see, shut the engine OFF and use a dab of paint or chalk to make them more visible.
  4. Connect a timing light according to the manufacturer's instructions.



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Fig. Fig. 7: Early type of check connector and SST tool (jumper wire) for base timing adjustment


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Fig. Fig. 8: Using the SST 09843-18020 or a jumper wire, connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DLC1 (also used on OBD-II)


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Fig. Fig. 9: Ignition timing marks 4A-GE engine-note the small notch on the pulley, this is the mark to align with the degree scale


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Fig. Fig. 10: Timing marks 4A-FE and 7A-FE engines

  1. Start the engine and use the timing light to observe the timing marks. With the jumper wire in the check connector the timing should be to specifications (refer to underhood emission sticker as necessary) with the engine fully warmed up (at correct idle speed) and the transmission in correct position. If the timing is not correct, loosen the bolts at the distributor just enough so that the distributor can be turned. Turn the distributor to advance or ****** the timing as required. Once the proper marks are seen to align with the timing light, timing is correct.



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Fig. Fig. 11: If necessary, loosen the 2 mounting bolts and turn the distributor to adjust the timing

  1. Without changing the position of the distributor, tighten the distributor bolts and double check the timing with the light (check idle speed as necessary).
  2. Disconnect the jumper wire or Special Service Tool (SST) at the diagnostic check connector.

This jumper will be used repeatedly during diagnostics in later sections. Take the time to make a proper jumper with correct terminals or probes. It's a valuable special tool for very low cost.
  1. Refer to the underhood emission sticker for timing specification and any additional service procedure steps. If necessary, repeat the timing adjustment procedure.
  2. Shut the engine OFF and disconnect all test equipment. Roadtest the vehicle for proper operation.

1989 Toyota... | 822 views | 1 helpful votes


Check your Air Filter if dirty replace. what is your day to day driving like?

1989 Toyota... | 42 views | 0 helpful votes

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