20 Most Recent 2006 Toyota 4Runner - Page 4 Questions & Answers

with the car key on ACC, set your odometer on mileage(not trip a or b) then turn ket off. then hold they button that switchs from odo and trip, then turn the key back to acc. while you are holding it down you will notice the maintenance light blink and go out.

There are repair manuals by Toyota which are very well done.

Call: Toyota Service Publications: (800)622-2033

Item P/N Price

Vol. 1 (Diagnostic & Troubleshooting) RM1001U1 $103.13

Vol. 2 (Engine, Body & Chassis) RM1001U2 $103.13

Electrical Manual EWD514U $67.50

V6 Supplement RM1034 $8?.??

If you've got the V6 you need the "V6 Supplement" which is eighty something dollars more.

Interestingly, the owners manual (that covers both the V6 & V8) says nothing about the Electrical manual but does point out the V6 supplement (without mentioning that it's a V6 supplent only).

Timing belt

replace the gas cap the gasket in it is bad. if not comeing from cap then you have a hole either in the filler neck or the tank or a line.

You have to crawl under the car to get this done. Identify the location of the bulb then crawl underneath and locate the appropriate connector. Grab the connector with your hand and twist the connector right-to-left. The connector will then disengage from the plastic housing and you can withdraw the connector and the bulb from the housing. Once disconnected, grab the bulb with one hand and the connector with the other, and pull out the bulb straight out (no twisting). Replace is the reverse. Easy. Should take less than 1 minute.

Not a big deal.

I am assuming that the engine is a V6. Realize that the plugs from the factory are Iridium and are good for 100K miles. Assemble the following:

6 Denso IKH20 Iridium Plugs pre-set to .044 gap ($10 each)
High Temperature anti-seize (crayon type is $3 at NAPA)
3/8 inch drive ratchet
5/8 inch spark plug socket
4-inch extension
10-inch extension
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
torque wrench (or make real sure you don't over tighten the plugs)
new air filter (optional)

You DO NOT have to remove the center cover over the engine to gain access to the spark plugs.

Start on the passenger side. Disconnect the air induction/filter assembly by un-snapping the two spring latches on the black air intake box closest to the front of the car. Once these are un-latched, fold the air intake assembly out of the way. Now would also be a good time to replace the air filter if you have not done so lately. With the air intake assembly out of the way, you now have clear access to the top of the valve cover. Along either side on top of the valve cover you will notice three black modules each held in place with one 10mm bolt with a small wiring harness connector attached. These are the coils (one per plug), and the spark plugs are located underneath. Disconnect the wiring harness connector and remove the 10mm bolt. Pull straight up on the coil and it should disconnect from the spark plug. Look down the hole and you can see the top of the spark plug 5 inches down. Using a 5/8 inch spark plug socket with a rubber 'holder' inside the socket to hold the plug, remove each plug. I had to use a 10-inch ratchet extension to provide sufficient clearance. I know it sounds goofy using a standard size socket on a metric car, but it is what it is. I make sure I get each coil back to its original location, but it really does not matter as they are all the same. Since the heads are aluminum and the spark plugs are stainless steel or monel/nickel, you have to be careful not to ruin the threads on the heads. I ONLY remove the plugs when the engine is cold. Apply some high temperature anti-seize only to the threads on the new plugs and install to 18ft-lbs of torque. Slip the coil back in place, attach the connector, install and tighten the bolt and you are done with that plug. Repeat for each plug. Re-install the air intake assembly and snap down the two latches and you are through with that side.

The driver's side is more difficult as there are things in the way. I had to remove one bracket (held in place with 2 12mm bolts) and disconnect a rubber hose underneath that bracket (it just slipped off with little effort - no tools required) in order to provide sufficient room to remove the coils. This is not as bad as it sounds, and I had both removed in under 2 minutes. Now you have access to the coils and plugs and can repeat the process. Go slow, take your time, don't get anti-seize on the plug firing tip, use a torque wrench if you have access to one. Replace the hose and the bracket and you are done.

Total time is 1 hour if you are not mechanically inclined, 30 minutes if you are

Step by step, with pictures. Very simple to do. http://www.toyota120.com/html/center_console_lights.html

You need an OBII scanner to reset service light...BUT.. any good parts store can do it for you for FREE (Autozone, Advance, etc..)

Hello mcrain65,

Recommended normal service interval is 90,000 miles.

Regards,
netvan

Can be a blown fuse, Check your owner manual for the appropriate fuse that refer to what it is for such at lights, radio etc... and the location of where the fuse in located. Once you find that out, pull the fuse out to see if the fuse is blown, if it is blown replace it with the correct fuse amp. Sometimes there are couple of fuse that are reference to the same details too.

yes and no a bit of wear in the diff bearings thats all cost more to repair than its worth ,turn the radio up a bit ??

I would start by unhooking the battery cable for about 15-20 minutes. The stereo has capacitors that hold a charge for at least 10 minutes. If you hook the battery up before the capacitors discharge, then some of the memory in the electronics will hold. And the unit will not completely reset. Another thing that can cause this is very cold weather. If it is very cold, then you might want to wait until the vehicle warms up to try to use the cd player. As far as changing discs. It should play fine once the cd is in. But the loading and ejecting mechanism has grease on the components. When real cold the grease gets gummy and doesn't let the parts slide correctly. And may require taking the cd player apart and re-greasing the slides. Try the battery and let me know how it turns out. Thanks! Merry Christmas!

hi try earthing the unit when switched on / also try to see if any plugs have came apart in the boot/trunk area

The rear window washer gets its feed from the front reservoir. One reservoir feeds both windows.