20 Most Recent 1992 Toyota Camry V6 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

I'd say your shift cable needs adjustment. See here p69http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/ax2.pdf

Was or IS there air in the system? Did you let the Master cylinder go dry? Bad news. Need to follow the manufacturers bleeding sequence. Usually RR,LR,LF,RF. DO NOT LET BRAKE PEDAL GO TO THE FLOOR!!!!!! It will kill the master cylinder(1992 car). If it has,the master may be ruined. Replace it and start over.Follow instructions in the box,but there are easier ways to do it. I need a LOT more info,here.

what did it not pass for .

its the startermotor the solonoid needs to be replaced

1992–96 Models NOTE: Be sure this procedure is done in a well ventilated area.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel pressure.
3. Remove the rear seat cushion.
4. Remove the floor service hole cover.
5. Disconnect the electrical fuel pump wiring at the fuel pump assembly. Check for any fuel leakage while in there

Fig. 6: Pull back the rug under the rear seat to access the fuel pump and sending unit cover

1. Remove the gas cap, this will prevent any fuel gas spilling out of any high pressure lines.
2. Using SST 09631–22020 or an equivalent line (flare nut) wrench, disconnect the outlet pipe from the pump bracket.
3. Remove the pump bracket attaching screws.
4. Disconnect the return hoses from the pump bracket, then pull out the pump/bracket assembly.
5. Remove the nut and spring washer, then disconnect the wires from the pump bracket.
6. Remove the sending unit attaching screws, then remove the unit from the bracket.
7. Pull the lower side of the fuel pump from the bracket.
8. Unplug the connector to the fuel pump.
9. Disconnect the hose from the pump.
10. Separate the filter from the pump. Use a small screwdriver to remove the attaching clip.
11. Inspect all of the lines, hoses and fittings for any sign of corrosion, wear or damage to the surfaces. Check the pump outlet hose and the filter for restrictions.
12. When reassembling, ALWAYS replace the sealing gaskets with new ones. Also replace any rubber parts showing any sign of deterioration. To install:
    
13. Install the pump filter using a new clip. Install the rubber cushion under the filter.
14. Connect the outlet hose to the pump, then attach the pump to the bracket and tighten to 22–25 ft. lbs. (29–34 Nm).
15. Engage the connector to the fuel pump. Install the fuel sending unit to the pump bracket.
16. Install the fuel pump and bracket assembly onto the tank. Use new gaskets. Tighten the pump bracket retaining screws to 34 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
17. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each component to specifications. Start the engine and check carefully for any sign of leakage around the tank and lines. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.

PLEASE DON'T FORGET TO RATE!!!! THANKS!!!!

Can't give you an exact number but I can tell you how to find out. I will asume that you are changing you oil and filter? After putting the oil plug and filter on put three quarts of oil in and start engine; after oil light goes off, turn engine off and let set for about 5 minutes, then check oil; if it is not on the low mark of dip stick add another quart, start engine, stop engine, let set for a couple of minutes and check again. By now you should either be at or above the low line and just add enough oil to top it off at the full line. I would guess that about 4 1/2 to 5 quarts is what you will need. Hope this helps,P. Ford

It is definitely appearing from the radiator? Not elsewhere? This model has a plastic top tank to the radiator, which cracks eventually, so have a very careful look for a hairline crack.

That engine can develop a leak between the intake manifold and one or both cylinder heads. It is hard to spot, and the water dribbles out onto the transmission, where it is dissipated by the air flow.Another possibility is the water pump shaft seal leaking, in a car this age, accessed after removing the timing belt.

google it select images

I can comment on a couple of these - The No 1 shift solenoid is on the transmission valve body but is a different component. Failure at this age is common, and it is replaced as a pair with the No 2 solenoid. The transmission pan has to come off, and you may as well replace the internal filter as well. See here p7 and p19 (no need to remove the valve body)http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/ax2.pdfThat engine has characteristic oil leaks from the rear bank cam cover gasket, distributor shaft o-ring seal, and the oil filter adapter bracket to block o-ring seal. The first one especially fits your description, and you will need to remove the intake manifold to get at it. Use genuine Toyota parts, the cheaper ones don't last there. See here p13, p64http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/eg2.pdf

try a wrecker they dont sell wiring much so should be cheap enough

This sounds rather like the No 1 or 2 shift solenoid has failed. This does happen in older V6 cars, but it should cause the O/D indicator light to blink a trouble code when the O/D switch is on.