20 Most Recent 1992 Toyota Camry V6 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Replace the switch in the trunk.

On the side of the block.

The car should start without the knock sensors, why would you change the knock sensors? They are a piezo quartz generator that rarely go bad. Usually other symptoms of engine faults produce a code that say there is a knock sensor problem. Back to the no start thing, maybe you may have caused a unrelated problem. Bad reconnection or something. Retract your steps to see if you did something wrong

Sounds like a bad seal .is it leaking where the transmition connects to the engine

A hydraulic fan is ran off power steering pump if fan isn't locked up

Usually the pump in my experince. Take it somewhere where you can have thhe engine cleaned. Then take it to a shop and have them ID what is wrong. or put it up on jack stands and lay under it with a flashlight and figure out where the leak is coming from

A failed thermostat stuck closed will cause overheating. Test that item by boiling it. Nearly all car thermostats will have opened fully at 100 deg C. There may also be a number stamped on it to indicate its opening temp. You can keep track with a kitchen thermometer with a range above boiling. A blown head gasket will often cause very quick overheating, and you may also see white bubbles like dry ice in the radiator neck. There is a simple test for combustion gases in the coolant, which any competent mech can do for you. The kit can also be bought from Autozone etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3J00_e7fyo It is possible that the water pump has corroded away internally and is not circulating water, but if the car has always had antifreeze added, that should not happen. My Camry V6 water pump was still good after 220000 km. If you do get in there, replace the timing belt while you are at it. A faulty temp sender in the block may also cause overheating, but only because it does not start the radiator fans when it should. You would notice if they were not running when the engine got really hot. Tailpipe drips don't tell you much, as there is always moisture in the exhaust gas.

This could be many things but the most common one is to have put the leads back in the cap in the wrong order, to check look at the bottom pulley and look for the timing marks, now with the keys IN YOUR POCKET put the car in 4 gear and remove NO1 plug now rock the car back and forward until the timing marks line up then put a long screw driver in NO1 plug hole if it drops in a long way you are not lined up. Do it again but this time feel with the screw driver and you should feel the piston raise in the bore (be careful you can jam the screw driver you need to keep pulling it out as you rock the car round ) now you have the piston at tdc but it could be on the fire cycle or the exchorst stroke if you remove the rocker cover the inlet and exchorst vales should be fully closed if they are then you can remove the cap and see where the rota arm is pointing now holding the cap over the rota arm you can see which lead is no 1 hope this helps

if air bag light is on its because you have a problem whit the system need to scann the car and repair the part thet fail and reset unit

ON THE CAMSHAFT GEAR ARE UNE HOLE NEED TO MATCH THE HOLE WHIT THE MARK A THE CYLINDER HEAD AND ON THE CRANCSHAFT GEAR ARE UNE DOT ALING WHIT THE MARK A THE ENGINE OIL PUMP COVER

It is listed as a fuel cut solenoid signal. This is a valve which cuts the fuel off when the ignition is off

Here's a link to your valve covers. Repair Guides Engine Mechanical Rocker Arm valve Cover AutoZone com

Gap.044

This points to the 1-2 shift valve not functioning properly, possibly due to dirt or metal particles. Take it to a good auto shop as the trans pan will have to come off. Ask them to look first for trouble codes.

The key or the lock or both may be worn. You will need an auto locksmith. It is also possible that the lock linkage inside the door is broken.

That is a faulty engine knock sensor, a very commom failure, and cheap to replace.

I had the SAME problem with my 1992 Camry LE...except without the water..First, check the back up lamp fuse (there is more than one circuit on that fuse, not sure which). The water would have likely shorted out the circuit. First check for power at the reverse bulb while the car is in reverse (You can do this with the car off) If there is power, check the ground wire, if it is bad...if you splice the ground wire before the connector and run a new wire to a ground in the trunk, then it should work..thats what was wrong with mine..hope this helps

NO engine size stated. just V6,, V30 body. the connector is called DLC, diag. Link connector. it has may usages, not just the flash code, but is fully documented and varies by engine option, 6 engines were offered, 2 are v6 2.0 L V6 gasoline (1VZ-FE) 2.5 L V6 gasoline (4VZ-FE) not posting liter size, make answers very very hard, hint, never work on any engine not knowing which it is. same for buying parts, x10 \the Toyota has 2 ways, first off, info is in the FSM, (factory service manual) and is on alldata.com, login and read. but is common knowledge, (goggle, like 1mil hits?) its a jumper wire. on most cars. a paper clip, unbent. 1: DASH CEL LMAP , FLASH CODES. 2: A SCAN TOOL #1 IS FREE #2 IS A $150 tool, or rent ,barrow, on any shop on earth can do. here is a 1 click page, and engine type is needed. http://www.troublecodes.net/toyota/ 2nd google hit. http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl750h.htm i use this scan tool, it works 100 times better than any flashing bulb. shows all live sensors, etc. http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3120-Diagnostic-Reader-Vehicles/dp/B000KID2ZC