20 Most Recent 1989 Toyota Celica Liftback - Page 4 Questions & Answers

My friend is a part time mechanic he gets his solutions from www.reliable-store.com he gets from their every single detailed info, instructions, diagrams, error codes, troubleshooting, transmission etc. everything on all vehicles, and manuals like service, repairs, parts, owner's, operations, maintenance etc. U can get help from there there is a girl at chat she can help you

It could be a wheel bearing either the left or right side maybe both. When driving around corners note if the noise gets louder when turning either way, for example if the noise gets louder turning right then the left front wheel bearing is the problem, the same for turning left, the right front bearing would be the problem. If the noise stays the same and changing on acceleration or deceleration the problem may be more serious, possible a final drive issue like a bad pinion bearing ring and pinion gears.

it is a twin overhead cam and twin carburetors. different heads, intake manifold and carburetor. Engne tightening torques should be the same as an 18 rengine

The 2.2L of that year would be the 5S-FE engine. It used an electronic Idle Speed Control Valve. With all of the intake/vacuum system connected connected, accessories off and the transmission in neutral connect a tachometer. Short terminals TE1 and E1 of the underhood check connector. Wait for the idle to maintain 1000-1300 RPM for 5 seconds. If needed adjust the idle adjust screw to an engine speed of 650+-50 RPM. US Idle is 700+-50 RPM, CA M/T is 800+-50 RPM and CA A/T is 750+-50 RPM. Remove jumper of E1 and TE1 of the check connector.

Unless there is a check engine light on it's not a solenoid or electronic control issue, it's hydraulic or mechanical. Try changing the fluid and use the correct Toyota specified fluid or equivalent, Valvoline MaxLife is a good substitute. If the drained fluid has any metal particles or friction material it's sign of deeper problems.

Usually that happens when the ignition coil gets hot. Not sure if your car has one. It looks like a round cylinder with a spark plug wire connected to it.

Could possibly be a bad or weak ignition coil. Try swapping it with another cylinder and see if the misfire code follows the coil.

have you checked the battery? It sounds like it may be dead or there is a bad connection at the battery terminals or possibly a blown 100A fuse in the box under the hood.

Most car alarm securty systems can be silenced by inserting key into door lock and cycle it. Runs of a simple switch that's attached to lock cylinder.

For the Fuel Gauge problem: try knocking on your fuel tank a few times. Give it a few good bangs, sometimes this loosens the fuel pump lever that can sometimes get stuck. This is very common with older model vehicles. To tackle the door lock you will need to get behind the door panel. its not difficult; just take your time.

If it is blowing cold air, that means the coolant level is low, the heater core has no coolant in it. Sounds like a head gasket is leaking.

Your diagrams are available on autozone.com.

You will have to read several diagrams for the complete pinout. The disgrams are available at autozone.com.

• Repair Guides Overall Electrical Wiring Diagram 2003 Overall Electrical...

When it's not starting, you need to perform the basic troubleshooting steps to narrow down the possibilities. Check fuel pressure, check for sparks, etc. See tips at the link below. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Order one thru NAPA auto parts. Should be a lot cheaper than OEM. If that doesn't suit you, go to a salvage yard and remove one from a scrapper. That one should prove to be about half the price of OEM motor. Most of the auto re-cyclers are connected to the enternet with other re-cyclers and can find you one fairly easily.