20 Most Recent 2007 Toyota Tacoma - Page 3 Questions & Answers

boost, hummmmm ????????????? a charger with a boost button? (big shops have this) or you mean jumper cable , jump started from a running other car? my wild guess. is you always start fine, when jumper cable jumped. this proves, the battery in your car is BAD or is only discharged. for 100 years now, same deal. try a fresh battery off a good car. works now, so ??? yours is weak or bad! but started car , is the voltage 13.3. to 15v? a walfart $10 meter.? no , then the charge system is bad (charge lamp on?) note, i said system. not a specific part. if the charge system is failing.?

1. bad battery. tha'ts right alts do shut down with battery bad. (open or shorted battery)
2. loose alternator pulley belt.?
3. bad alternator wires. connections.? or bad battery cables.?
4. scan the PCM most 2007 will report what is wrong with voltages and charge. scan it.

engine rpm way below normal at idle 800 is typ. good. 400 dead wrong. battery cables bad. battey cables lugs green with corrosion someone put the minus cable far end to the wrong part>? this minus cable has correct spot near the starter. some fit to block others to stater , bolt or bell blots. to frame is wrong, seen that , with lazy work.

time for oil change

are you talking, 4wd axle locks , or A/T internals. or ? is there a symptom or curious.? the FSM covers it all, buy one. or of the lighter version, use alldata.com what system?

They typically on the fan itself because they need the air flow to cool them. The resistor basically converts power to heat. Sometimes they're mounted on a panel attached to the airbox for the same reason. Best bet is to pull the heater fan, look for it on the fan, and if it's not there, trace the power wires back from the fan. They're not usually too far away. Not sure if this applies to your vehicle or not but some climate control systems (SAAB, GM) have a FAT power transitor array attached to a big heatsink that is called a fan controller. in that specific arrangment, the fan continues to run when the vehicle is off.

some parts stores have a compatability chart.. I dont but you can also call dealer service or a salvage yard..

heater, totally dead.1: blower working and blowing cold air , 2: engine holds 180F or more all the time, HOLDS !! i use an IR pyro gun to do that as dash gauges suck.3: heat lever bad, slipping or stuck (look)4: some cars have no water valve, so use damper , it can stick closed.if engine coolant was hot at heater failure we can work this easy.yes< then is both heater hoses hot touch , fan on, engine hot.see them as they enter fire wall, on both sides.?you can in fact feel them on all cars.ever do a real RAD cooling system flush , if not, BINGO, full of crap inside.

check heater valve usually in the heater hose to make sure its open both heater hoses should be hot.then listen to here if the blend air door in the heater box is moving and there is nothing stuck up under the dash on pass side blocking the duct,move the hot cold selector back an forth you should hear it open an close also check for vacume leak by heater vale and at the duct assy

cab heater fan is in the heat fan box, (its air cooled,. if not it burns up)

That code indicates a problem with the secondary air injection valve.On the Tundra, it is under the intake manifold. Its location on the Tacoma will depend on whether you have the 2.7 or 4.0.It was quoted as a $750 job on a Tundra, user did it himself for about $300 in parts.

Hi Jig, I suggest you take the vehicle back to the same center where the recall was carried out, as it seems to me that something was not done correctly. Regards John

Check for leaking rear shocks or a loose sway bar.