2004 Toyota Corolla - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It's possible that you may have a bad head gasket, further tests have to done by a mechanic.

#1 cylinder at TDC (top dead center) will put the crankshaft pulley keyway at 12 oclock. You can verify this by checking the notch on the crank pulley to the '0' mark on the plastic cover. Next : CAM sprocket has a letter "E" on it with a hole . This hole lines up with a detent on the head.

If this was happening to me.... I'd goto an airconditioning re-gas centre and get them to check for gas leaks. In my old commodore the Evaporator Core was leaking and causing some of the issues you have mentioned.

Try this link as it has the diagrams you are looking for:

http://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/toyota/corolla/2004

Hope this helps you ??

Hello and welcome to FixYa!
You may want to check your email as well on the spam folders. You may find the given username and password there.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

My 2005 corolla is making a horrible noise and shuddering when it comes to a stop. We just had all the solenoids changed and a new ECM that had been recalled by Toyota. We took it out of overdrive and it stopped the noise and the studdering . There have been no codes on this problem as yet.

Any ideas???

You need a valve timing special service install tool!

Check the blower motor Relay...

There is a filter and it should be checked. You will also need a new gasket for the pan.

Sounds like a possible rear axle bearing assembly is going bad.

This can only be a loose belt. You need to adjust the tension (Usually done by loosening the altenator and pulling ot outwards before tightening it up again.

You may think it's tight enough, but tha fact is it probably isnt. Carefully undo the tensioning nut, slip a crow bar between the engine and altenator and lever the altenator outwards to a position further than ist is now.

Needless to say, careful where you put the crow bar on the engine and altenator and careful just how tight you make it. This is one of those "how tight do I make it....." "about until you give a little grunt and that's probably about right" moments.

Just tighten it a little more. Lock off the adjustment bolt, start the car and see if the squeal has gone. If yes, good job, if no, then go a little tighter.

no idea of dealer prices but 80,000kms have the timing belt changed at least

have you tried to replace the rear bulbs. i would do that first and if ok check for voltage at connector but remember you will need someone to hold the brake pedal down while you check this.

check the cabin filter behind glove box. if it is stopped up it will restrict the air flow

Unfortunately you will need to buy some form of wiring converter. To work with your trailer lights. The problem is that your Corolla has a separate turn and stop signal, Trailer lights have one wire for turn and stop. I suggest the CURT 56175 3-2 converter. You should be able to find it around 20 dollars.

Differential in trans axle

Won't be long before the trans will
have to come out

Save your money,lots of it

Flush the Power Steering Fluid, to see
if it makes any difference in sound

Won't do anything for trans, but both
fluids get changed every 30,000 miles,
so get caught up on those two.

Yes If it were me I would definitaly change them. A plug can go bad and cause a rough running engine and bad fuel milage. Even the 100,000 mile plugs I recomend changing around 60,000

That is the most stupid or dishonest thing i ever heard - there is no breaking in period for an ECM. A well tuned/programmed ECM will always (no exceptions) work perfectly fine from the start so if you experience bad shifting then they messed up the programming or they didn't did it at all.
Also the ECM has absolutely nothing to do with the air conditioning, it's controlled by a completely different module, the BCM. If you now have problems with it it's because they messed up something during the repair - most likely they didn't disconnected the battery and grounded the electrical circuit so a power spike was generated and it fried the BCM = bad/incompetent workmanship.
Take the car back to them and demand a full repair for free.

I don't want to be a shadetree mechanic, but, did you check the fuse(s) ?