20 Most Recent 2007 Toyota RAV4 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

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OK try this: make sure the fuel filler cap is on tight. Toyota (and Lexus) checks the EVAP system for leaks and if it finds a fault it lights the CEL and VSC. If the fuel cap is loose or the rubber seal on it is cracked then this will be seen as EVAP leak. To clear the CEL etc disconnect the battery negative terminal for five minutes (you may have to enter the radio security code after this so have it available when you reconnect the battery).

Love this one

You change ALL Vehicle Trans & Power Steering Fluid
EVERY 30,000 miles & NEVER more than 3 years

They break down from the heat & change color as yours has

Dirty -- is mostly burnt fluid & near time for a trans rebuild
from neglect

47 years of experience, as well a owning a trans repair shop,
says so

There is no such thing as a trans that can not be checked for
fluid level.

They are not sealed for life,not good for 100,000 miles
all nonsense

I might add the same with spark plugs

Try running a toyota or better yet a honda for
120,000 miles & no plug change

They work great. Then you throw the whole car away

If you need to discuss preventative maintenance
& clear the air on all the TV hype ,I give you my #

This diagram should help you find the oil drain plug for an 07 Rav4, and also how to change the oil and filter: http://members.cox.net/rav4/01900210.pdf

Its internal.

Here's a How To: http://www.ehow.com/how_4914451_replace-water-pump-rav.html

Under the hood right behind the battery. Undo the clips on that black plastic box and the filter is right there. There is also a cabin air filter behind the lower glove box.

When you change the filter, you shouldn't have a problem with the hoses or tubes.

I use Vavoline

4.5 quarts

www.rav4world.com

Not counting letting the coolant drain, it takes all of about 20 minutes. The hardest part, and it is hard, is to remove the hose clamp on the lower hose where it mounts to the thermostat housing.

Drain the coolant. With needle nosed pliers, remove the clamp. There is a small wire mounted in a plastic clip from of the alternator. Pop the clip and move the wire to the side. It makes life easier. Remove the two 10mm nuts and pull back the housing.

Now here is the trick...take a long screwdriver and slightly bend the aluminum a/c line forward. When I say slightly, I do mean slightly...maybe 1/32 of an inch to 1/16th. When you do this, it will allow the thermostat housing to clear the lower stud. Slide the housing off and remove the thermostat. Replace thermostat but do not mess with the a/c line.