20 Most Recent 1984 Peugeot 604 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

take the headlight out

check for signs of leaks, does it smoke when running? you donty say if its petrol or Derv?

Hi! The MAF (mass air flow) sensor may have got wet. The MAF has big contribution on the engine specially on the idling and vacuum supply. If the MAF is wet the car will surely trip. You will just need to dry it thouroughly to resolve the problem. Please write back on the progress. HOpe this helps and thank you for using FixYa!

on the facing side of the gearbox is a square socket/bolt which is the filler and level,do not overfill.

under your hood there is a switch.it is a red knob try puching this down.

on the facing outer edge of the crank and cam pulleys you will find a small (0) dimple.these are the timing marks.....

cant help their ,you should be ok as these cars are sort of normal apart from the hydraulic suspension

The knocking is probably the belt tensioner banging away, Depends on what kind of tensioner you have though. Some are gas filled and when they die, they knock, you should not be able to move the thing with your hand. Others are just wheels that get tightened up against the belt. If the bearing is shot, it will make all kinds of noise. And then there are components like the power steering pump that will put tension on the belt. It could be the front of the alternator, or the AC compressor, a bunch of things could cause it. To narrow it down, get a length of 2/3 inch dowel, or a broom stick about 3 ft long, cup your have on the stick and put it to your ear, without your ear touching the stick, then with the engine running, be very careful not to hit anything moving with the stick. Put it on every bolt, nut, pulley bracket, engine part, component part, you will find the loud one. Hope this helps.

www.hutsonprecision.co.uk

Would ques the problem is mechanical of nature and has got something to do whith the piston and caliper assembly. Have the calipers been overhauled and the piston been replaced ? The size of the piston might be to large. Also could be that the wrong brake fluid are used. Incorrect fitment and assembly of the calipers are also a possibility.

Master cylinder if of the dual type might have a sticky cylinde internally.

If the problem would include locking of the rear brake system as well you should check the adjustment of free play on the master cylinder.

Hope these will be of some use to U

Its not a solution but just a suggestion:
Check the heat sensor installed on the engine block (mostly linked with the water hose. you need to follow the wires from fan in backwards direction to find the heat sensor) and fuse (in fuse box) for the fan.
To check wheather the fan is working just disconnect it and connect the connectors directly with car battery.

have it plugged to a diagnotics computer in it sounds to me like crank position sensor faulty or maybe get a compression test done on the engine

i have been working on peugoets for 12 years and never heard about this
what i would sugest is thet you get in touch with peugeot tech support and see if they can shine any light on the problem

youll need to get a slide hammer and either make or get hold of a hdi injector removal tool, as pri bars wont help when there stuck solid ive had this issue many times, hope this helps

hallo
with or without AC
Marko

well buddy you have to remove the bumper.

to do that you have 4bolts to remove all 6mm and two screws
so you want a 10mm socket and about 30cm of extensions
and a 10mm combination spanner and a phillips screwdriver
maybe a pair of plires

first remove both wheel arch linings
-thier should be 3-5 plastic fir tree buttons (they just pull out with a good yank) and the front is fixed to the bottom of the bumper by one screw.

after your happy you have removed all of those fixings just give the hole thing a tug and it should come loose.
(remove both sides)


after that thier are two bolts which are hard to get two (one iether side). its best to get access by looking from inside the wheel arch. if you imagine from the side of the car(looking at the wing) its probable 4" below the wing and 4" in from the start of the bumper
(hard to see without an image)

after thoose two thier are two simple ones to get to. theese are aproximately either side of the radiator, and you only have to loosen them. they are looking towards the sky and its easyest to get them loose by a long extension on the ratchet and lieing looking up at them.

i cant really remember but i have a feeling the washer bottle has a bracket which might also be secured onto the the bumper. which is on the drivers side and tucked up in the corner.

after all the bolts are out and the two which hold the crumple zone on are loose, then the bumper can be pulled right away from the car. (making sure you have disconected the foglights)


after the bumpers off its a doddle. 3 x6mm bolts which hold the headlamp in place and the wiring is straight forward.

hope its helped.