Top 20 2000 Mini Cooper Questions & Answers

verify the gearshift linkage on the gearbox could be a beginning of the end or the sincron on the gearbox is start to fail

Anything on floor if not goes tale pipe ,you can try head gasket fix good one.

BMW claims the Mini E draws a maximum of 28 kilowatt-hours from the grid per charge, and that this translates to approximately 5.4 miles per kilowatt-hour.BMW Mini Prices

If you are sure the 'stat is good, how do you know the radiator is good ? It could be blocked, or partially blocked. Try back flushing the entire system as the interior heater matrix could be block also.
You can also figure out the above by setting the controls to cold, let the car heat up. When about 3/4 or more, set the lever to hot. If the gauge drops then you have a rad problem.
I assume this car has a belt driven fan, any Mini I ever saw did, and that it IS driving. If electric then it may not be cutting in, in which case the rad fan switch is faulty. you could bypass this and get the fan to run.

After that.....yeah water pump.

Check that the terminal clamps are clean and tight on the battery. The larger of the two terminals is the positive (red) terminal. Very early morris stuff was some times positive earth so look at the terminal size. There is usually a squarish fuse holder that the lid pulls off of under the bonnet (hood) on the fire wall If you got the polarity of the jump leads wrong you may have blown a fuse. Good luck

I'd check the fuel line for holes, splits and bad connections. Then the carburettor, have any of the gaskets failed, is there any petrol leaking. Finally are any breather pipes blocked or disconnected.

DON"T yank the wire. A little gentle twisting should free it. If its a toughie the auto store will have a pair of pliers made just for that purpose. They have a semicircle jaw that will allow you to pull the boot from the bottom w/o damaging the plug wire. Well worth the $7-$8 if you do this kind of thing on a regular basis.

what jam jar are you fixing up ,,well anyway a morris like this with ammeter is no problem ,the feed wire from the battery positive terminal ,the amp meter goes in this cable ,not the big one to the starter motor but the thinner one ,if it doesnt have one then the feed will pick up from the starter solonoid under the bonnet ,right what else do you need to know ,how to build and set up the points ,the carb ,tappet settings ,how to convert to negative earthfor the sound system to work

I doubt that you'll be able to squeeze a T-series engine into the engine bay, not only that, the extra weight would cause problems too.

You're better going for a K-series 1.8VVC engine. They're 145/160BHP, light and will fit with some modification to the subframe.

Try searching for the 'metro power' forum, or visit www.mg-rover.org

Cheers,
Ian.

No online source I can find. Try the Mini Cooper service manyal by bently or the Haynes #4273 MINI Owners workshop manual.

that means your heater core is leaking

Be sure motor mounts are good.

well you have to remove the old oil likely you will be required to remove the trans pan at that point you might want to change the filter too

now that you and your driveway are covered in oil put in the new filter then put the oil pan back on the trans with the new gasket dont over tighten the bolts though or it will leak
now that the hard part is done time to re fill the trans
wow your a trooper your covered in oit and grease back is sore from laying on the ground and all thats left is to put the oil back in once you re fill the 4-6 literes of oil start the car let it run for 30 secs or so then check it again whiile running add more if required and your all done

congradlations you have now spent 75dollars or so depending on dealer cost for trans gasket and new filter and dont forget the oil
o then theres the 4-5 hours of swearing in the driveway and all the bandaids your sporting and the time your about to spend donig laundry

ooo and i forgot on sone smaller cars theres a frame rail that rund right under the trans to it was also removed and ofcourse you got to test your new engin support

best sugestion i can give you is let a mechanic do it for 75- 100 bucks it's a lot less painfull and hell im a mechanic by trade and i wont do trany fluid and filters due to the mess and the pain in the ask

Chances are that not all grounding wires are earthed. You may have a floating ground that is feeding back through the lights. Try grounding the heater directly to start your diagnosis.

i cant solve this i got the same problem did u ever solve this. i have changed - clutch,slave an master cylinder and the gearbox has been rebuilt

hi you should find the paint code along with the vin number etc on the identity plate either situated on the bulk head under the bonnet or on a door post hope this helps but if your not sure make a note of all the numbers and take it to the paint shop they will put you right

It is unusual to have the arches rot out (about the only part that is usually sound) I know the inners are available and inexpensive, probably easier to weld in new ones that patch up the old, certainly better for the car.

This can be caused by a few things. Clogged exhaust system. An overheating electronic component in the ignition system, such as the coil, the module etc.

First***Stop using starting fluid*** It will destroy your engine.
To set up the carbs, you will need to buy a vacuum balancer. This is a device that will show you how much downdraft each carb has. You then, have to adjust the linkage, so that they are the same. After that, you will need to adjust the fuel mix.
All in all, if you're not experienced in this, it is best left to a carburator shop, not most garages.

the windows in the miny are running in two tracks both are bolted inside the door, take the door trim off and you should see them in there, unbolt one and put window back in tracks then bolt the runner back on