1999 Jeep Cherokee 4WD - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Removing your oil filter housing is a simple task with the correct tools. You will need to evacuate the oil in the drain pan before removing the filter housing. You need a torx bit to remove the housing. The oil filter housing is located near the distributor cap. You can unbolt the housing by unscrewing the torx bolt on the outside of the neck. The filter and the housing will come out.

Read more: Jeep Oil Filter Housing Removal ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/way_5649355_jeep-oil-filter-housing-removal.html#ixzz1CS95qEdH

Had this problem too, and you need to check that your TPS sensor plug.harness is tight, the best way to do that is to actually unplug it, blow it out and then plug it back in. But the same problem happened again and it turned out to be the CPS plug had come loose, again check it and make sure it's seated well, and everyone will tell you to replace them, but if take a wooden dole, or stick and can tap yours gently down towards the transmission I've found that it works well after that. http://www.fototime.com/554D75F2A0D08B0/standard.jpg

My guess would be the fan is flinging it around, so radiator, hose or water pump. Make sure your radiator is full and start your engine and look for leaks... If you don't see any wait for it to warm up and check again..

If your fuel system is ok(which it sounds like you've checked) go to the distributer cap and rotor,these often get hairline cracks which are not apparent by looking at them, but are cheap to replace. Also while in there make sure everything else looks clean and situated correctly. Then change your spark plugs and if they are not newer,better ones, your spark plug wires too, this often has a profound effect on starting and running smooth all by itself. Use good quality parts (No Champion plugs for example,have run into to many that fail new or shortly afterwards) and change your air filter while your under the hood. You can also use seafoam (slowly added to hose for intake while manually raising the rpms,and the other half of the bottle added to fuel tank) to clean the intake system.If you do this,do it BEFORE you change the plugs as it often fouls them,and is perfect to do before you change them out, Drive a few miles after using the seafoam as well,then change out the plugs and wires etc..

Check to make sure it is connected at the transfer case. The shifter bushings become worn and break and allows the linkage to fall off the lever arm.

Your owners manual will show you exactly where it is...However it is easy to disconnect the horn...You desperately need a horn for safety reasons to avoid a crash...Especially if your state has a safety inspection requirement...Your fuse panel should also have the fuses numbered and a sticker inside the fuse box cover stating which fuse goes to horn....Also you can wear safety glasses and disconnect the battery to avoid air bag explosion..Remove steering wheel center cover where the horn is pressed...,You will see a small wire attached to the cover and to the prong inside steering wheel...It could be loose or disconnected.....If not just disconnect the wire and black tape the terminal end ..Then the horn is disconnected...

The first thing to check is the oxygen sensors. They are supposed to be changed every 65 thousand miles or so.

remove the drum and inspect you job. small shoe on front big shoe on back.brake lube on the backing plate.lose the adjuster and inspect,lube the adjuster, give more free play on your parking brake cable 3 click is the normal before lock the wheel. Inspect the master cylinder for overfeel, remove any fluid over the max level. inspect the fluid for contamination(burn smell or oily)flush the system. lift the Jeep and pump on the brakes,if the wheel is locking open the bleeder screw.if brake fluid is under pressure,replace the hoses. good luck

On 99 4.0l it is located on the oil pump drive

hot or cold engine? (EFI controls it all , but) a cold engine is , MAP and ECT , and RPM , iAT set, by PCM tables. Inputs >>>. ECU tables >>>> math >>> injection rates. hot is the same but the engine EFI enters Closed loop fuel controls the scan tool shows "closed loop status "true" so the 02 sensors pulls the mixture to STOICH, 14.7:1 AFR. AFR means air fuel ratio, or mix, in bar stool lingo, (ok) what is the real question or issue, or just shopping for facts. both are welcome for sure. if really curious read the books by : Greg Banish books , both are GEMS ! (i have them all, and his win big time.) http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Management-Advanced-Greg-Banish/dp/1932494421/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388070570&sr=8-1&keywords=greg+banish

It could be a number of things, if it's injected then it could be fuel rail pressure sensor, or it could be air flow sensor or it could be O2 sensor, have a mechanic diagnose it

With the engine off, depress the brake pedal about 6 times, all the way up and down. While holding the hard pedal down, start the engine, and if the booster is working properly, the pedal will fade down a little bit.

Local Autozone Haynes manual may have the schematic you need

The instrument cluster or ignition switch module, lost communication with the electrical bus or wiring system & can not be seen by other modules! Need wiring diagrams & factory trouble charts to diagnose the fault May be something on the internet about it ,on your vehicle Google the issue

If it has one, most likely. it should be very obvious if it is not, such as aftermarket brackets and fittings. If there is not an external trans cooler installed, they run the tranny fluid through the radiator (the trans fluid is hotter than the engine coolant).

if it has a factory tow package usually it already has a trans cooler installed it will be located in front of the radiator/ a/c condenser , if not there not that difficult to install

Push hood back down hard,then pull on hood release hard again.If not work,trace wire inside as far as you can and get grips or pliers and pul from as far up the line as you can.If it opens as it should,you can easily unattache wire from pull handle put a knot in wire,this will shorten it so easier to undo next time.Infact you might try that first. If none work which I doubt,get push to start and drive to garage.LUCK

double posted. backup 1 post

the system (bags) needs speedo input. so fix the speed first ever scan it, ; plug in any scan tool and look for all those errors called DTCs , bingo.! then look them up in the FSM? bam.

double posted, back up one. send photo of wheel so we can stop guessing your cars options.