20 Most Recent 1999 Lincoln Navigator - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Here's a good video that explains how to do it better than I can:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIC6Z4D6Q3E

if it wont turn over you wont know if it has a spark

There are a couple of things you can try. The first thing would have been to check both heater hoses that attach to the heater core. When the engine is at normal running temperature both of these hoses should be equally hot with the heater turned on.This would mean you have water flow through the heater core. This would mean the water valves are allowing flow and that a lack of heat would be from a failure in the ductwork under the dash. A flap or "door" is simply not changing position to allow airflow by the heater core.You can get an accurate diagnosis by using the self-diagnostics built into your Climate Control head. The head is your Display screen. There is a way of keying in an activation sequence for this test. You may be able to find the sequence online, but the Codes are in a different group specific to the Climate Control.You would need to identify the proper part under the dash by finding a diagram specific to your Model of car. You may look up the parts for sale online and see photos which will help you identify the parts.Please rate my info.

It could mean your heater coil is going out in your car.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Car Key Programmers

If you ran out of oil your engine is frozen You can now use it as a large paper weight. Even if you could start it everything inside is shot. Go to a junkyard and get an engine and have them or some one else install it

Any Navigator that is 4 years old & just out of warrantyyou replace the air suspension with conventional conversion kitI had a person yesterday that gave a lincoln dealer $9,600since it was new in 2003 & still wants to pour more into it& refuses to believe most people do the conversionSeems the dealers can't solve those issuesOn it's cousin the Expedition no problems & their isair on the backThe Navigator is to Ford as the Oldsmobile was toGM in the 1960's & later,sort of a test bed of bad ideas

It is so much trash if it is undone from the coil holder.

how often does it blow? you may have a bad starter if it blows during cranking!

check your earth and the solenoid of your starter motor.

What color smoke there? Check this information about "engine noses"...ENGINE CLICKING NOISESA clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISEWorn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.VALVE LASH NOISEIf you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISEInspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUNDUsually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATINGThe cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

JUST adjust the cable some is under steerin and anoter on transmission shifter cable

try changing the fuel filter and give tha car a full tuneup....should help !

Make it serviced at authorized dealer. They'd provide a computer diagnostic

Your answer is within your question...

There are also relays for the horn. First check would be the connections at the horn then the fuse. If the fuse isn't blown, it's possible that the relay has gone on it. Another item to check would be the wires leading up to the horn it's self. If any of them are frayed and touching bare metal, causing a short circuit, the horn wouldn't work then.