20 Most Recent 1985 Lincoln Continental - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Hi

The wiring diagram is not available for free download ,after a thorough search it is found in ebay from where you can buy the schematic. Please check the link,if it helps:-

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-LINCOLN-CONTINENTAL-Wiring-Diagrams-Schematics-/230480075652?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item35a9aedb84

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should have key on off switch on dash

It is impossible to answer your question without knowing the YEAR and ENGINE of your Lincoln Continental. Also, whatever possessed you to REMOVE your fuel tank?? How are you getting fuel to the engine?

First check the fuse then the temperature sensor in the radiator by bypassing it.

You didn't indicate the year of the car, but you can get the trouble codes by having a scan done at Auto Zone or Advance Auto, and the codes will identify where the problem is.

Check the small wires going to the starter solenoid. Hook up a voltmeter on the wires and see if you have power in the crank position. The ignition relay may be why power is not going through the keyswitch. The fusible link, probably not a problem if the engine runs.

This is a curious problem. You have gone to a lot of work and I can not tell if part of your problem is intermittent cranking or that it would not start and run until you changed plugs, besides the knock. I would take a fuel sample. You may have filled it with E85 instead of normal fuel. Unless you were near empty, there was some higher grade of fuel in the tank to mix with what you added. You might want to swap the fuel injector to a closer one on the opposite side of the motor and see if the knock moves. Borrow a Noide tester for the aft fuel injector lead wires to see if they are constantly firing. Some auto parts stores have loaner programs. You can look up if your model has a knock sensor on the engine. You might try to squirt a little oil in the injector port to see if it has any effect.

Provided the thermostat was put in right there are several things to check. Your engine is also air-cooled. There is a series of switches which work off of engine water temperature and the A/C setting. The electric cooling fan may have 2 speeds. If the electric fan motor or if the Relays or activation sensor do not work, the engine will not be cooled by air. The water cooling system is not good enough to do the job by itself. The electric cooling system is fused and has a Relay. Have someone look inside the radiator, if possible to try and see if the water is circulating. Remember the normal precautions about antifreeze spraying under pressure. If the radiator is clogged, it may need to be serviced.

you need to have the engine coolant switch checked,since the computer relies solely on sensors,the ect tells the computer how cold or hot it is so the computer will make it a rich or lean mixture to start the engine,if it tells the computer that it is 75 degrees the computer will lean the mixture like starting a car in the winter without a choke.

Blow compressed air backward thru nozzle to free clog in line. Might have to remove line on other end.

VSS. Vehicle speed sensor. Although Im sure its already been done but check the transmission fluid. Change it out with new fluid and a filter if you want to and when you do, look at the old fluid and see if its blackish or not pink/red. Look for metal shavings in the fluids catch pan and in the transmissions pan and in/around the filter. The small stuff 1st. Then you can rule out that and move to the bigger stuff.