Top 20 Hyundai Motor 2003 XG350 Questions & Answers

Most probably it is corrosion inside the motor which causes the armature to bind. If it doesn't run freely it will blow the fuse due to electrical overload. If it can be stripped, cleaned, and lubricated. i should be OK.t

all wheel alignments have a camber adjustment for vehicles with a strut suspension it is in the 3 or 4 bolts that hold the top bush/(rubber mount ) on the inner guard Those bolts are not concentric but if moved around 1 hole setting at a time will alter the camber and castor of the alignment If there is insufficient adjustment there , then there is a lower arm or control rod out of adjustment on many cars with strut suspension that arm that goes from the body to the lower control arm will also affect the wheel alignment , especially if the rubber mounts are bad have it checked by an accredited specialist suspension shop

www.ask.com/mfg.name/make/model/error/code/431/mean/

under the car left front corner of fuel tank

Hi Charles,here's a repair guide on your fuel pump,it's in the tank. Repair Guides Gasoline Fuel Injection Systems Fuel Pump AutoZone com I also would recommend using a oem fuel pump,don't have to splice wires .

Why didn't you google your codes & read up? The 302 is a cylinder misfire The 431 is a worn out or ruined exhaust converter from the misfires The 734 is a 4th gear incorrect ratio-mostly a failing trans I would suggest we go no farther & you part with it while you can If you had no trans issues-- I would say you have a neglected but fixable car With the cost of trans repair & a 2003 wouldn't spend any money on it

take it to c a/c mechanic and have him hook up the gauges to give you a correct diagnoses

Nothing to your car, just the environment.

Hyundai Motor 2003 XG350 Firing order:1.3.4.2

it is in the gas tank on some the rear seat bottom is removed and then the cover is removed to get to the fuel pump some require removing the fuel cell/ tank

check at local parts store for firing order sometimes on the block symbols are stamped or check with your dealer

You must have a spare key. When your alarm is going off have your key in the ignition, wait it out. When your alarm stops in approximately 30 seconds keep the key in the ignition exit the vehicle and lock the doors (don't forget your spare key). Go to the passenger door with the spare key and unlock the doors and turn the key that you left in the ignition and it should start right up. Just worked for me.

The person who said this is very difficult is obviously not a professional installer. This is among the easier door panels to remove. Don't remove the mirror covers, they aren't in the way at all. Don't twist the door panel. Remove the square cover concealing a screw behind the handle, the cover simply lifts out. Don't pry from the top. 99% of door panels remove starting at the bottom. Simply grab near the front below the speaker and pull. You can also use a panel remover if it doesn't easily snap out. Once loose, just tap at the top of the panel near the back of the door while lifting. The panel lifts off easily. Disconnect the plugs (probably hardest part) and remove panel.

That should be a seperate unit from the PCM. Its all that drive by wire stuff. I never had a problem or any code when I had a throttle cable!
I think your module is located behind the center console.

The 2012 Accent is under warranty. Have this problem properly diagnosed under warranty.

It does have a relay found in the box under the hood. At times the issue could be voltage issue, it may be a low voltage due to alternator or battery issues or wiring problems.

I live in Australia & have a Hyundai Grandeur XG 3LT V6 2002 model (US equivalent is Hyundai XG300). Fault codes are P1118 (ETS motor fault) & P1178 (ETS motor battery voltage open). An intermittent fault.The first code denotes general area of the fault & the second code denotes the specific fault.So the specific fault is that the ETS-PCM computer is not receiving 12V on pin 2 with ignition on.'Check engine' light remains on & car is in 'limp home mode' with very little power & poor performance.I had purchased the Hyundai service manual online (ebook about $8) for the US model. Could not find anymanual for the Australian model. On page FLA-52 found the block diagram for the whole ETS system.I am a retired electrical engineer so now it became easier for me to find the fault.There are 2 computers behind the center console. PCM & ETS-PCM.Pin 2 of the ETS-PCM should have 12V present when ignition is on.In fault mode 12V was not present. This 12V is supplied from ETS 15A fuse (fuse box under dashboard)via a relay (i will call this relay the ETS relay). The 15A fuse was OK but the 12V was onlyintermittently being passed through the relay points. Relay is located near ignition switch on asub panel which has about 6 relays on it. ETS relay was at right bottom corner of sub panel.Yellow wire feeds the 12V (which is always present even with ign. switch off) to the relay points.White wire is the output wire from the relay points which feeds 12V to pin 2 of the ETS-PCM computer.Measure if 12V is present at white wire when ign. switch is turned on (no need to start engine)I only had the 12V present intermittently. So pulled out the ETS relay - tested contacts withohmmeter & found to be only making contact intermittently when relay lever depressed - removed relay case by grinding away one corner of the case - cleaned the relay points with fine sandpaper.replaced the relay case & taped with black insulating tape to keep out dust. Tested relay with ohmmeter & pointsnow OK. Fault is now cleared & car is operating normally.Also had previously purchased on Ebay a Can OBD11 scanner for $15 which read the fault codes OK.Hope this helps other people with similar problem.

it could be in your starter relay! check there first! a way to check it is, if you don't hear it click! take a screw driver and just touch it between the two contacts! if your starter engages, your relay is bad!

When this happens, there is no charging system voltage (from the alternator). Several possible causes

1. Alternator's regulator has stopped working
2. Alternator fuse (100 to 120 amp) is blown (at battery post or inside Fuse/Relay box under the hood)
3. Wiring between alternator & battery &/or fuse/relay box.

here is some free advice, antenna boosters simply amplify the radio signal AND the static so there is no increase in sound quality, plus they pick up all that nice spark plug noise. the upshot is that if you spend money to buy one you will find yourself taking it back out and tossing it or pawning it off on some ****** via eBay.