20 Most Recent 1993 Saturn SC2 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

sounds as if the starter is going bad or the remote sensor is not understanding the vehicle has started but if you are trying to locate the starter simply follow the battery red or + positive cable down to the starter itself always located at the bell housing between the motor and the transmission

you can disconnect the drive belt and run the engine to find if it is external or internal . if the noise goes away with the drive ( Fan Belt) off , before replcing the belt spin all pullies with your hand .

Hi,
Ouch! Was it from over-tightening or trying to remove the bolt?
Really, I need more information...
Regardless, you'll have to take the thermostat housing off and remove that broken portion of the bolt. The reason I asked if it was from overtightening, it should be a little easier since the threads aren't locked-up, to remove the bolt section. Hopefully there's enough bolt shank sticking up to lock some vice-grips to.
If the bolt broke trying to loosen it, you may have to drill into the broken bolt remnant and use an "Easy-out" to extract it.
I know... big pain. You can do it. Hey, stuff happens. Good luck!

You may need new clutch hydrallics which is a self contained assembly that includes the master,slave and lines which is replaced as a unit. Saturn part # 21120474.Then you can expect one push of the pedal which will provide full throw-out.

You probably are developing serious ignition problems.Your coil pack may be becoming in jeopardy as open plugs wires will re-route KV's straight through the module to ground as this high energy goes to the easiest path. I would isolate possible dropping cyclinders by pulling ignition wires while looking for corrosion on the coil ends and oil soaked or faulty(cracked) spark plugs on the engine/spark plug side of the wires.The upper engine mount(torque axis) may be sagging and will exaserbate this condition as well.Here are 4 possible parts that could get you feeling brand new

1-16167763 -coil module
1-21024814-plug wire set
4-21025103-spark plugs
*1-21022185-torque axis mount with 3 studs(11518883)

*optional

The service light means your cars computer sees a problem, you can take it to just about any local parts store and most will check the codes for you for free and give you an idea of what is going on. by what you are saying it may be an electrical problem.(rough guess with limited info)

refer to
http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic78876.htm

and
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57092

The problem could be a bad coolant temperature sensor.

You got a blown fuse or a door switch that won't close. The fuse that blows is gauges and the altenator doesn't work or red light with this fuse blown. with the lights off and the doors all closed and the key off and removed the bell like you left the key in or the lights on rings? Parking light fuse does this too. Lets say the lights work just like their sussoped to and the interior lights work like their supposed to. Now were having fun, All the fuses are good too! {Tested with a test light, not looked at) Thier all hot (light lights up on both sides of the fuse, Both boxes, under the dash, driver side and the underhood relay center?) Uh-O you do have a problem. The headlight switch can do this (reports the lights are on with the key out and the door open and it doesnt reconize the door is closed. If all this stuff checked OK and it still chines with the door shut lights off and key removed the daytime running light module or the Body control module can have a problem. All this checking can be wrong if someone put a radio in the car with the cut the wire and tape it the way that you thought it ought to go. Same story with remote staters and aftermarket security systems. Lets say they were working OK fo awhile and everything was just nicely working as these units get old (about a year) Things like this start happening to them. Disconnect them one at a time ( just unplugg the (brain) of the thing then also look for where any of the connections cause two factory wires to be connectede together. ( wires that came with the car ) If you can't tell hire this work done as mistakes can ruin the car worse that it is now and the worst case is burn the car down. I'vve been assigned to find out what happened for the court csae that burnt someone up

the sensor for the coolant level should be attached right to the overflow tank... there should be a harness with wires coming out of the tank

this sounds like a bad throttle position sensor. You should be able to have a garage read the OBD code to tell you for sure,

There is no reason to guess. If the check engine light is on, take the car to an autoparts store and have them scan the computer for any fault codes that are stored there. Most parts stores will do the scan for free. Getting the codes will eliminate speculation and can save you time and money. Hope this helped and best wishes.

The engine idle speed is controlled by the computer through the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve mounted on the throttle body. The valve may be faulty. Hope this helps and best wishes.

you will need to remove all the brake hardware and remove the strut and then purchase or rent a Ball joint press or remove the lower control arm and have a machine shop press the joint out. U will need a front end alignment after this is done.

does the car crank? if not check the alternator. If not that you may have a short.

i would check the engine coolant sensor or the switch is bad

did u bleed the air out of the cooling system? u can't just add coolant to this sytem u must bleed the air out that is trapped in the block.

It might be best to remove the power steering pump and bracket, then pry engine away from passenger side. That should give you enough room.

Well, You shouldn't have cut the old wires. This means you now have to Buy a new factory harness. both, the male and female ends.