20 Most Recent 2000 Saturn Ls 4dr Sedan - Page 5 Questions & Answers

The 2000 saturn runs the passlock system. Unlike VATS its predecesser, this system is much harder to bypass. The old "resister" trick that many people still do, does not apply for this system. So lets start at the basics. The security light flashing indicates 1 of 3 things. The problem in your passlock is either in the KEY, IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER, or WIRING before the Theft Deterrent Module (computer). This means you could replace the key or the ignition (whichever is to blame) and you might be ok. You would have to reprogram the key to the ignition. The other option is to bypass it. Unfortunately that costs money also, but honestly no more than a new transponder key and far less than a Lock Cylinder. Just trying to give you all the options. Here is a link that explains the SECURITY problem rather well and gives some good tricks and options for fixing this yourself permanently http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Need to know if it has a CD changer or not. You can email me at [email protected] with all your information including your make, model and year. I will be happy to email you the diagrams and they will be bigger then I am able to post on here. No there is no cost, just need all the info to give you the correct diagram

you should hear a click from the solenoid when you apply the brakes. If your brake lights don't work, your shift lock release won't either. There is a bypass method for emergencies in your owner manual. Check fuse for brake lights. And switch on brake pedal

Make sure the latching mechanism is open to accept the peg by using a screwdriver to pull out on the door latching mechanism.

Look for the directions from the web page of autozone. Once you become a member you can log in and get detailed info on repair information.

Do you have a service engine light on or does the smog station tell you that the monitors are set?
A drive cycle won't clear a service engine light if the reason for it was not fixed. Normally a drive cycle or a 25 or so mile drive will be enough for the PCM to run through its test, and if all is well, clear the monitors.
Now some shop scanners and code readers can clear the monitors. Actron is one of the code readers that I know of that will clear monitors (the newer models. older ones did not). They are about $75 for the basic code reader and may be a worthwhile investment for the do it yourselfer.
Auto Zones also have code readers and if theirs is capable may do it for you. Though if you're in California I have heard they don't do that any longer due to people getting codes cleared just before a smog test without fixing the issue first.

that all depends on what all got damaged, if just a fitting came loose or if the actual line was broken, it could be a small leak in a radiator lower hose,, which would be something completely different cost wise,, I suggest you have the car checked,, most shops will do that for free,,

the valve bodies on these cars are notoriously bad in that they easily become plugged, and the 'no reverse' is a symptom. The valve body can be replaced without removing the trans, and there is a little cottage industry of people who rebuild them (about $200)-it takes about 1 1/2 to replace it, and is not all that difficult to do, a good shop can do it for less than $100.

Do yourself a favor and save yourself some money. JB Weld which can be purchased at any auto parts tore or Walmart, will fix your oilpan for life. All you have to do is follow the directions on the package. I swear by this stuff and have fixed everything from oilpans to gas tanks to radiators. Just make sure the area is CLEAN before you apply it. Drain the oil if you have to, but I garuantee it will save you big buck and big headaches. If that isn't something you want to do then go to a local junkyard and buy a used oilpan. Hope this helps

Here is some info for you to read, besides me explaining what ppm is, i also gave you some info of how to solve this, Ain't that special LOL. Mike

Overall Result: PASS or FAIL. A vehicle with a properly operating engine and catalytic converter will have very low HC and CO readings. However as a vehicle ages the HC and CO emissions will increase and may become erratic. As a vehicle ages it becomes increasingly important to be sure that the engine and converter are fully warmed up before the test to have the best chance of passing the test.

HC (PPM): The parts per million of hydrocarbons (unburned or partially burnt gasoline) in the exhaust.

CO (%): The percentage of the exhaust that is carbon monoxide (CO).

CO +CO2 (%): Complete combustion in the engine or catalytic converter will result in very little carbon monoxide (CO) and a high percentage (up to about 16%) of carbon dioxide (CO2) in the exhaust.

O2 (%): When there is complete combustion in the engine or catalytic converter there is a very little oxygen (O2) in the exhaust. Usually less than one percent. A higher reading indicates a problem with the engine, the exhaust system, the sampling system or the catalytic converter. Vehicles do not pass or fail because of the O2 reading; it is only diagnostic information.

RPM: The engine speed in revolutions per minute (RPM) or N/A.

Cruise Limit: The maximum allowable HC and CO emissions at 2500 rpm. The CO+CO2 (%) must equal or exceed 6. This verifies an adequate sample of the exhaust has been obtained. N/A for O2 and RPM.

Cruise Emissions: The emission readings measured at 2500 rpm.

Cruise Result: PASS, FAIL or N/A.

Idle Limit: The maximum allowable HC or CO emissions at idle. The CO+ CO2 (%) must equal or exceed 6. This verifies an adequate sample of the exhaust has been obtained. N/A for O2 and RPM.



These are the possible problems:

bad o2 sensor
bad EGR valve
bad cat
bad timing
dirty injectors
bad plugs or wires
the less costly fixes include replacement of the o2 sensor and EGR valve i would not clean the EGR I would buy a new one there are very cheap you can pick these up at any local parts store .
also run some injector cleaner through your car at least a full tank of gas and one bottle of injector cleaner should be ran through.
you can also have your timing checked for a relatively low price.
and when you go into to have the vehicle checked make sure the car is been running because your cat convertor has to be warm in order to preform at it peak so do not do it when the car is cold.
all of the above are pretty reasonable fixes the general rule of thumb when you work on your own vehicle is start with the cheapest fix first then go on to the next.

I have the same problem few days ago, and still didn't find any solution. Can any one please help?????16

Give me some more information about this problem. May be i can help.

Make sure that it is a recognised brand, backed by one of the major oil companies. Some spares outlets brand their own antifreeze, but it can be suspect and better avoided if you are concerned about the maintenance the condition of your vehicle. The better quality solutions also list a mixing ratio on the container to protect you below to the minimum temperatures you are likely to operate at.