20 Most Recent 1995 Saturn Sl - Page 8 Questions & Answers

it is 16 years old and every day past 10 is a gift. each coil fires 2 plugs. they are identical so, all other obvious things being ruled out, i would switich the coils and see if the other two cylinders become randomly dead. if so then you have a bad coil. use your cell phone camera for something useful and take a picture of what wire goes to what plug before you start taking it apart. the SL1 has 1 injector and the SL2 has 4 injectors so you could have injector issues as well if you have an SL2. if you replace a coil, do both and all the plug wires, use good stuff made for the engine not a universal set.

The torque spec are as follows, step one is 22 ftlbs then step 2 is 33ftlbs and the third step is to tighten bolts 90degrees more also the bolt tightening sequence is here, this is a diagram of the bolts good luck and i hope this helps.

You know I had that problem on a 94SW, and replaced the Mass Air Flow doodad and the crank position sensor and that fixed it. Cannot tell you which item was the right one, neither are very expensive. My car however also had a gas odor to it indicating incomplete combustion.

Engines need three things to run, spark, fuel, compression, all at the right time. If your fuel pressure is good and you have spark then that leaves compression. Before you bother with a compression test first try to spray starter fluid in the intake to see if it will start on that. If it starts, it will die after it burns the fluid but at least you'll know the engine is good and you have a fuel delivery issue. If it won't start on the fluid then you need to do a compression test. You can get a compression tester from any auto parts store (I think even Wal-mart sells them) and follow the directions on the tester to do the test. Write down the results and post them here.

A lot more clarification would be needed to help you the best. Was the car out of oil when the engine shut off? How low on oil was it and are you certain you didn't over fill it? If the engine ran out of oil and shut off then the engine is ruined and will have to be replaced. The more detail of the problem you can give the more likely I can help you further.

Without knowing what you are looking for and what vehicle, the best advice I can offer you is to try www.rockauto.com as they have a very extensive parts catalog. If you are asking for an exploded view of parts because you don't know what to call the part you want, you will need to get the factory service manual for your vehicle from www.diyrepairmanuals.com and look through that manual for what you need. The manuals they sell are not the generic manuals you get from the part store. These are actual factory manuals the dealers use to work on cars.

Have you started up the car after that happened? If you did, do not worry about it, it has mixed in. If you have not started it up yet you can take the hose off the bottom of the reservoir and let it drain, or you can get a water hose and flush it out. It will be ok if you leave it in, no more than put in will not effect in any negative way.

DIAGNOSTIC OR ASSEMBLY LIND DATA LINK LOCATED UNDER THE DRIVER SIDE DASHBOARD NEAR THE KICK PANEL TO RETRIEVE TROUBLE CODES USE A JUMPER WIRE TO B AND A TERMINAL TWO TOP FAR TO RIGHT TERMINALS SIDE BY SIDE B AND A . CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL GIVE YOU MORSE CODE.LIKE TWO FLASHES PAUSE FEW SECONDS THEN FLASH THREE MORE TIMES THAT IS CODE 23 BUT A CODE SCANNER QUICKER BUT JUMPER WIRE CODE TRICK WORK AS GOOD IF YOU DONT HAVE CODE SCANNER. BUT YOU NEED CODE BOOK TO SEE WHAT CODES YOU ARE RECEIVING FROM PCM.

the diagnostic port is located under the steering column.

evidently your problem did not lie with the part you replaced, so taking a good one out and replacing it with another good one has no effect. that is why. Someone has to figure out which part is bad and replace that bad part with a good one to fix your problem. Randomly replacing parts in hopes that it fixes a problem can be expensive unless you serendipitously get it the first time. I would pick the
mass air contraption next, then i have guessed wrong also from time to time.

well you could have had a freeze up and crack in the block or head. when the ice block melts you get that. you could have a bad head gasket and the leaking compression is blowing through your cooling jacket. i think maybe you should call around to some recyclers and see if you can locate another engine or try and find a rebuilder.

YOUR VALVE COVER OR ROCKER ARM COVER NEED NEW GASKET.STILL LEAKING OIL.

it the belt is loose, the tensioner is bad. Its a pulley that should move and has spring tension on it. its a large pulley about 3" in diameter. replace the belt and tensioner.

any check engine lights on sounds like a oxygen sensor

plugged heater core,headgaskets?

If the latch is bad buy a new replacement at getsaturnparts.net or.com I can't recall which is the right extension. something that gets that type of wear you should get a new one. you can most likely find well worn used ones on ebay or craiglist or finding a local junkyard. most likely any SL 91-95 latch will fit. if you mean the cable is broken, then you are going to have to get a new cable. frankly when my cable broke i could still get in with the key so i just lived with it.

Look like this http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Drivetrain/Saturn/SSeries/1AEBT00011/286234?utm_source=google_base&utm_medium=comparisonshopping&utm_campaign=gb_api_br&year=1995&utm_content=EBT








Tensioner cannot be tightened. The tensioner is a automatic spring tensioner with now manual adjustments. if the tensioner is loose, it must be replaced. the instructions are as follows:

Remove the front passanger side tire (19mm lug nuts)
3. In the wheel well, remove the splash shielding to gain access to the motor.
4. Place a decent size peice of wood on your jack, and slide it under the oil pan, raise the jack so it firmly presses on the oil pan.
5. Under the hood, remove the motor mount on the left side of the motor, the mount is held on by Three 15mm nuts with studs on the motor itself, and Two 15mm nuts holding the mount to the body. remove the mount completely.
6. slowly lower the jack supporting the engine untill the engine sits all the way down.
7. from inside the wheel well, place a 14mm wrench on the belt tensioner pully bolt. swing the tensioner to remove tension on the belt, remove the belt from the tensioner or main crank pully.
8. You should have access to the lower bolt on the tensioner. the bolt is 10mm in head size. i recommend using a 1/4" ratchet. Remove the bolt.
9. raise the jack as far as you can, making sure the vehicle stays on the jackstands!!! this should allow you to reach down and beable to remove the top bolt on the tensioner. the motor will come up on an angle.
10. once the bolt is out, the tensioner should just fall out of the motor. reinstall the tensioner with the top bolt first, lower the engine, reinstall lower bolt, reinstall belt, reinstall the upper motor mount, and raise the engine to level out with the upper mount.
The job sounds complicated if you are not mechanically inclined, but its accually simple. you will not break anything by moving the motor. the job should take a average person about 30-45 minuites to complete.
Please visit my bio page for access to my saturn help site. there is a picture of your belt tensioner located in the serpentine belt folder.

oiled up sparkplugs/low compresion,oil burning indicates a worn bore.time for a rebuild im afraid.

Here are some troubleshooting tips that may help with your problem, although at first glance I would say your cooling fan is not working. Bear in mind that on your model Saturn the needle is almost in the red before the fan starts to operate. It is a rather disconcerting part of the Saturn's original design.

If the smoke is thick and white you have a blown head gasket. The car would basically look like it is making clouds.

If the smoke is black that is too much fuel and is likely the result of a failed ignition module.