20 Most Recent 1998 Land Rover Range Rover - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Hi, that radiator is the cooler for Automatic transmission! Replacement pattern part is available and are not all that expensive. Your only concern is how much of the auto box oil leaked, if any, and if that has caused damage to the box. When a pipe from the box to the cooler went on mine it wouldn't change into top, and when the pipe was repaired everything was OK. That was 4,000 miles ago!
Ian

15w40 is reccomended

First make sure that the code has not been noted somewhere within the car (underneath the ash tray, glove box , rear of sun visor etc) 

To see if your code is available here for free then the radio will have to be removed from the dashboard (and if you are lucky, someone may have written the code on the casing ) .

If not then POST ANOTHER QUESTION


quoting the radio MAKE+MODEL plus ALL the LETTERS+NUMBERS on ANY LABELS ,BARCODES or STAMPED IN THE METAL CASING

note: Unfortunately not all radios can be decoded using the Serial Number 

If not then try your Main Dealer ...........or take it into a Decode Service who will plug in a laptop to read/recode the memory chip (EEPROM). This takes a few minutes and shouldn`t be too expensive 

Have you pressure tested the system? Read your manual, most likely cause is air trapped in the system.

First let me just explain something about putting HID bulbs in a reflector headlight, then I'll get to answering your question. High end cars use something called a projector with their HID bulbs and these projectors focus the light into patterns that won't blind other drivers with very perfect cutoffs (no light goes above a certain line). To retrofit a projector into your stock housing it takes a lot of work and careful measurements and thus a lot of time. But this is the only way to do a HID retrofit the right way.
Putting a HID kit into a reflector housing as you did, also makes light scatter everywhere, which creates many hotspots or high concentrations of light that make it much more difficult to see the road. Not only do HID kits in relfector housings make it more difficult to see, they are hugely illegal, and can/may get you pulled over and ticketed by a police officer. 
The best thing you could do insted of putting a HID kit in your relfector housing is to get higher wattage bulbs, OSRAM makes some great H4 overwattage bulbs. http://www.rallylights.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6
If you purchase from rally lights (you need to purchase them in sets of two( I wouldn't go over 85/80 watt bulbs because it could melt your housing.)
Also make sure your headlights with stock bulbs are aligned correctly, most of the time this alone makes a huge difference as headlights droop over the years. 
If you are set on using your HID Kit illegally and blinding all other drivers on the road and willing to live with the risk of getting pulled over by any cop you run into. You will need to figure out how to trick ecu into thinking regular headlights are being used because its detecting the power being drawn for your HID lights to be a fault in the system that needs to be replaced. You can do this by wiring in a 55watt resistor to the circuit. 

Hopefully some run time might get those sensors to responding again before deciding to install replacements.One thing that could be adding to your problem is airflow problems in the air plenum,primarily the flow port in which the MAF recieves its air flow.Carbon buildup in this intake is another cause of syymptoms like erratic idle, stalling, cutting out at idle and when coasting up to a stoplight and stumbling when accelerating off idle.Perform cleaning of the air intake plenum chamber inlet. The build up of oily gunge around the throttle valve is sufficient to upset everything at idle speeds. A quick cleanout might cure your problems. The Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) has a passage the air takes separate from the main air flow.This is a very critical parameter input for proper fuel delivery.Depending on the severity this could trip on the CK engine light.This "Do it yourself" fuel system tune up kit from 3M pn#08963 is a tremendous product which could save you a bundle from the dealer performing the same service.Hopefully all your outboard sensors will settle down and get proper input for proper output...good luck

This is a factory defect. The only fix is repalcing the steering rack, it is a built in defect on RR from those years. Range Rover issued a service bulletin on this problem.

I quote from RangeRover.Net.
"Many Sport owners have noticed a vibration felt through the steering, especially but not exclusively with the bigger (20 inch) wheel size options offered. This was particularly the case with early build Sports. It was usually manifested as a shimmy at 50+ mph throughout the steering and the entire vehicle. Some owners have had vibration at 5-15 mph as well. Before the end of 2005 Land Rover recognized the problem and issued a technical bulletin on this problem. It was fixed with a new steering rack design incorporating a vibration damper. Click here to see an official Land Rover diagram of the difference between the old and new steering rack designs, and here to see how to inspect yours to see if is the updated design. "

Best regards.

Sometimes the IAC motor is the problem (this controls the idle speed) and needs to be replaced. If that doesn't help then it may be an electrical problem but the IAC motor is usually the culprit in this case. Let me know how this turns out.


Benjamin

There is definately an issue with your fan. The fan since you confirmed is working, is not pulling enough air to the radiator.

Check the fan pressure.

Good luck and remember to rate my suggestion.

low fluid or the computer control unit
Cheers Rob

Hi,
An easy check is to spray your ignition wires with water - a fine mist from a spray bottle works best. Start the engine and closely check if you see any sparks between any of the ignition wires and the rocker covers or any other part of the engine. If you see any sparks that means they are not getting to the spark plugs and your engine will not run properly. Replace the wires - one at a time to ensure you don't put them in the wrong place and then see if the engine is running smoother.
Engine misfire or stumble under acceleration or load may be caused by a poor connection in the diagnostic connector under the right seat, adjacent to the ECU on the Range Rover or in the right footwall behind the fascia lower trim panel on the 1994 Defender and under the right seat 1995-on Discovery at the right edge of fascia behind car board cover.
The pins on the female side of the plug tend to open up and need to be crimped tighter. Clean the pins with contact cleaner and reconnect. Secure with a nylon wire tie to prevent a reoccurrence.
Thank You for contacting Fixya.com

sound to me like a transmission solenoid pack fault. the only way to confirm this for sure is to hook it up to a scan tool and pull a code. If you don't have a scan tool available I would take your vehicle in to a local reputable auto shop. also it could be transmission wiring fault of some sort. but it sounds more like the solenoid shift points not working properly. vacuum wouldn't be applicable on this vehicle after 1996 transmissions are electronic and no longer use vacuum for shift points. hope this helps you out.

centeral locking switch in frount drivers door faulty

It is located in the sump pan. Oil temp senders usually go into the sump in a special boss welded on the oilpan. Pressure senders can be T'ed in to the connection for the oilpressure warning light sender.

There is no transmission stick on late 2000MY and on. To check the gearbox fluid put the car into extended height mode (highest), push the eas lock button and open the boot to stop the car settling down again. Then slide under the car. You will find the gearbox sump about a third waay along the car. It has two plugs. The one a the bottom is the drain plug (Dont open this one) There is another on the side facing forward towards the engine. It uses an ALLEN key to open. Now be careful as this gets tight. Very important to clean the plug and area before loosening to stop any dirt getting into the gearbox. Now slowly loosen the bolt (you may need a lever to help you. I used the Jack extension bar (bent end slides over the allen key) and turn slowly. Now turn very slowly and as soon as you get a drip or two you know the transmission fluid is in there. Thats it! Be careful not to open bolt too much or you will get covered in fluid.

the 1st thing to do is try and charge the battery and then have it tested, just because the lights work and other functions that does not mean there is enough energy avil in the battery to crank the starter, it uses at least 100 amps.

Hi..my name is Keith..the only way that i know..that gas could be getting into your crank case is if you have a bad fuel injector that hung open...i hope this helps..if not..please write back

inside the gas tank

I am not sure in all Range Rovers released. The fuel pump is in the tank and it is mounted via a hole on the top.

It has a broken slide rail and this will need to be replaced. It is a common issue. Big job, roof lining and whole sunroof needs to come out to access.