20 Most Recent 2003 Lincoln Navigator Questions & Answers

there should never be a leak in the system at all when the car starts the compressor should run once about 5 to 15 second to check for leaks
if longer than that you are headed for bigger problems

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Jan 02, 2020

keep pushing the mode switch on steering wheel to get to it

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Oct 02, 2019

sending unit is bad, sending unit , I would advise replacing sending unit and fuel pump together.--- even though fuel pump is still working , it is old. and could go out ! and you only want to the job 1 time. I guess you know these parts are in the fuel tank? the new strainer will come with new fuel pump. some cars also have a external fuel filter under the car body, you do NOT want a dirty fuel filter with a new fuel pump, it is a big job pulling the fuel tank out of cars. do your research before starting the job. very few cars have a panel where you can get the fuel pump out of the car , without taking the fuel tank out of the car, and yes you do have to take the fuel pump out to replace the sending unit, which sends the signal to your fuel gage. a word of advice let your fuel tank be almost empty, you do not want to lift a lot of gas as it weighs around 8 pounds a gallon, again do your research before you start this job. NOTE , reset your trip indicater to keep track of the miles you drive so you do not run out of gas. until you get parts replaced GOOD LUCK. Tom

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Sep 13, 2019

The air bags are leaking, replace them as a pair.

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Jul 26, 2019

Tengo un problema con una lincoln navigator wele a gas y esta fallando entre 0 y 50 millas x hora alguien tiene una respuesta a este problema mi nombre es jesus

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Apr 16, 2019

You don't need to remove the panel. Just spray the latch on the outside with the door open. I would use liquid wrench and open & close the door at least 20 times after it's soaked for a half hour. Don't be afraid to slam it. Also, one time I had to let it soak in overnight before opening/closing it multiple times again.

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Mar 16, 2019

First, I recommend taking out the stereo, which gives you more room/access. You'll need the removal tool which you can buy at a parts store or online (which is usually cheaper) or you can just bend a piece of coat hanger. The older the car and the longer it's been in the more difficult it may be because the prongs holding it in place may have gotten old. Once you have the stereo out, you can see how to remove the climate control. Be careful removing the plastic connectors because they have a tendency to break when they get old. I find a toothpick can lift they away without braking anything like a screwdriver sometimes does. Also, read your Haynes manual and Google a YouTube video for addittional pointers.

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Mar 16, 2019

PRNDL ERROR NO PARK ASSIST ITS A RELAY burn check your relays before you take it to the mechanic

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Jan 14, 2019

It is a near useless add-on to the ABS Braking System

It cuts off fuel injectors & thus engine power when you need
control over it,mostly slipping in snow

It on my Lincoln slams on the rear brake & you stuck in snow

If I ever found a way to cut the wires & shut it off I would make
it public knowledge

I have the wiring diagrams & have not yet worked too much on it

On my car Off is On & the owners manual couldn't be figured out
if you had a Doctorate Degree

If the Light is Off it is the system is on,go with that

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Nov 07, 2018

I know you stated you checked all fuses and relay and they're ok but The 2003 Lincoln Navigator had two differently (wired) air ride systems. A early production and a late one, and I think I may have a good Idea of what your problem may be and will walk you through how to properly test the system. The early production navigators used a solid state compressor relay and the later production units used a standard style relay. The early ones with the solid state type has been known to have some problems and working for a Ford, Lincoln Dealer for 21 years I have replaced a good number of these solid state relay for a air ride compressor inoperative concern. There seems to be some confusion on the location of the solid state relay. I would advise you to look behind your front bumper on the passengers side of your vehicle (and below your headlight) and see if you have a 4 wire relay that's aluminum and finnd ribs on the front of it and I believe a black base where the wiring connector plugs in. (this will be mounted to the radiator support) if so, you Have got the early production style. I will walk you through how to test this relay and also help you to isolate the cause of your problem. I highly recommend using a volt ohm meter for these tests. I do not recommend using A TEST LIGHT due to the fact that you will be testing a circuit that is wired to the air ride control module, and there is a possibility of you damaging the module with a test light !!! I have been there, done that, NOT GOOD.
Ok with that said: your wire colors should be as follows:
one that's( gray and red)
another that's (light green and red)
another that's (dark blue and yellow)
and one that (light blue and pink).
Disconnect the connector at the relay and you'll be testing the wires in the connector (THAT HOOK UP TO THE RELAY). The air ride compressor and the air ride solid state relay share the same ground which is the light green and red wire.
Turn your volt ohm meter to dc volts scale and attach the black wire (NEGATIVE) lead of the volt ohm meter to the light green and red wire.
Hook the red lead of the volt ohm meter to the light blue and pink wire.
Here your volt meter should read battery voltage (of your car's battery) if not check the (F2-111) 50 amp designated fuse in the fuse box under the the dash on the passengers side (KICK PANEL).
If this fuse is ok, make sure you were making good contact with your test leads into the compressor relay connector.
If you're comfortable with the fact that you have a good connection at the relay connector and your fuse tested ok, then you have a ground problem at ground point G101 which is located right near the mounting location of the air ride relay.
If you had battery voltage when you tested between the (light green and red) and the light blue and pink wires, you have confirmed the power source and ground to the relay.
I should clarify myself at this point. The wires at the relay are as such: The ground is the light green and red wire, the light blue and pink is the fused power source to the relay, the dark blue and yellow wire is the relay trigger source from the air ride module to the air ride relay, and the grey and red is the relay output (battery +) to turn on the compressor. OK.
So now we're down to checking the trigger source to the relay and the relay output. At this point I want you to re-hook up the volt ohm meter with the meter still set at volts d/c scale and reconnect the (red lead) of the volt ohm meter to the (light blue and pink wire) and connect the (black) lead of the volt ohm meter to the dark blue and yellow wire (again at the relay connector).
Now this next step is best done with the help of an assistant!!
While watching your volt ohm meter, have your assistant turn on the key and open and close the drivers door two -to- three times. After cycling the door, you for a short time should see at least 5 volts minimum, if not battery voltage at your meter.
(this is a little bit unclear to me due to the fact the air ride module shows that the dark blue and yellow wire, as a ground from the air ride module to the relay. but does not clarify exactly what value that ground signal should be). I am referencing Fords own wiring diagram.
A solid state relay usally is allowed a trigger source of a lower voltage then a standard relay. If you find you have no voltage reading at your volt ohm on this test, you'll first want to check fuses F2-20 which is a 30 amp fuse and F2-27 which is a 5 amp fuse in the same fuse box as the F2-111 fuse you checked earlier.
The last test you need to make at the relay is checking the relay output to the compressor. This will be done by again using the volt ohm meter. This time you'll want to hook the black lead of the volt ohm meter to the light green and red wire at the reay connector and hook the red lead of the volt ohm meter to the grey and red wire at the relay connector. Again for this test, you'll need to have a assistant turn on the key, then recycle the drivers door again.
If the relay is working properly you should have battery voltage, aproximately 12 volts showing on your meter. If not and all other test procedures results were correct, you have a bad relay.
If you have 12 volts on this test we have confirmed the relay is good and the trigger signal from the air ride module is operating as designed.
If the pump runs like you said (when it is straight wired ) the remaining possiblity is a broke wire between the air ride relay to the air ride pump (this being the grey and red wire) which you can test by switching the volt ohm meter to the ohms scale and touching one lead of the meter to the grey and red wire at the relay connector and the other to the grey and red wire at the compressor (with the compressor and the relay both disconnected). Your reading here should be 0.5 ohms or less. If you have under 1.0 ohms you're ok but specs are 0. 5 or less.
If you have an auto ranging type ohm meter, be sure your reading in ohms and not kilo ohms or mega ohms.
If you find while performing the test from the air ride module to the air ride relay (dark blue and yellow wire) referenced as the trigger signal, incorrect and all fuses all checked o.k. then it is possible the air ride control module is defective. But, before condemning the module, there are a multitude of input signal;s to the module that would have to be checked.
WARNING: Make sure your tests are accurate. Good to check and re-check each test. Be confident of your results.
Inaccurate tests and inaccurate test results= unnecessary parts replacement. Results are large dollars spent when unneeded.
Hope this helps you out.thanks for using fixya

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Jun 11, 2018

Are you talking about the starter relay? There are gauges that measure the juice needed to spin the starter. This way you find out if the starter is bad. Some major autoparts stores will test for free.

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Mar 02, 2018

if you waited 7 years to address this then go see a dealer

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Feb 12, 2018

I think you should go for manual first after that it would be easy for you to solve your problem. I had visited this site past 2 months before for my vehicle and find it quite helpful may be you will also get something useful here
Lincoln Navigator 2003 2006 WorkSHOP Service repair manual Download

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Feb 01, 2018

There is no reset on a FORD PATS system. If the theft light is rapidly flashing, get the trouble codes read and fix it.
Ford PATS Antitheft System Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Jan 22, 2018

Shock absorbers could be worn.

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Oct 25, 2017

you need to check your real axle sensor it may have come loose or broken

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Oct 05, 2017

your truck needs transmission fluid asap,this happened to me to.after the fluids went in........problem solved !

2003 Lincoln... | Answered on Oct 05, 2017

Not finding what you are looking for?
2003 Lincoln Navigator Logo

1,445 questions posted

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Popular Products

Top Lincoln Experts


Level 3 Expert

85239 Answers

gerry bissi

Level 3 Expert

4388 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22485 Answers

Are you a Lincoln Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

View Most Popular

Navigator Lincoln

  • Navigator Lincoln

Most Popular Question

prndl error

  • Cars & Trucks