20 Most Recent 1999 Land Rover Discovery - Page 7 Questions & Answers

There is a little spring in the door lock itself that is broken. You can order the spring for a few $$$ from a few Land Rover on0line specialty shops. Its a big job to replace though as you have to remove the window regulator, And window glass & Frame to get to the lock to replace or fix it. Not much of an option though. I just spent 4-hrs tearing mine apart. I'll put it back together tomorrow AM.

You can remove the negative terminal of your battery which will reset the computer. This may shut the lights off. The truck will have to re-learn your driving habits and should occur after over 16 kms or so of travel!

Take the spare tire off and pull the wiper and arm out. The blade just pops out and pop the other one in.

I would recommend that you do replace the cover, not tap it. The amount of metal around the hole may become to thin to support the line. Whether you do it yourself is up to you. That depends on how comfortable you are with your mechanical abilities. I have large hands too and it does make some of these tighter packed engine compartments a lot of trouble to work in. This is a fairly straight forward part change though. I recommend that you pick up a haynes manual from a parts house before you start. They show great layouts and have detailed pictures of components to give you a better idea of how everything fits together. I hope I've shed some light on things for you though. Re-post with updates or questions. I don't get to get on line as much as before but I'll try to keep up with things and get to you. Good luck.

You must enter the system using the EKA code, it will written in the service book how to activate the EKA. If you dont have the EKA code, you will have to take the car to the dealer to reset the system and give you the code. hope that helps

fuel preasure regulator

I'm assuming Radio - in which case just get some release clips (varies from radio to radio) and insert them and then using the clips pull the radio towards you. IIRC the D2 uses standard ISO looms so you should be able to plug straight in.
If your vehicle had premium Audio, the loom may be different as the premium system goes through a amp under the passenger (RHD) seat. On LHD vehicles it may be under the drivers seat. If you have a CD Changer under one seat, it'll be under the other! These may require either an adaptor loom or the plug being modified.

radio code try 0000 1111

Could be the universal joints in the drive shaft

Hi,
If an inlet valve stuck or has a crack - it may ignite the rest of the gas/air mix - causng a backfire into the airbox.

This may be temporary or a permanent- recurring problem. Only by taking the head off can you check valve conditions and that all springs and guides are good.

This is the most likely cause - pre-ignition from a slow to close valve.

No need for a diagram, to drain the oil, there's a drain plug on the bottom of the transfer box, under the handbrake drum. To fill, the fill plug is about in line with the centre of the handbrake drum and to the left. I think both plugs are 1/2" square. Fill to overflow with Texaco Multi-Gear 75W/90R. Takes about 2L or so.

Ok, here are the wiring colors and functions/destinations. C0030 is the motor connector for the front windscreen.
C0030-1 - Black, runs to a Earth
C0030-2 - White/Green - Fed from the front wiper relay, via the IDM
C0030-3 - Blue/Green - Flick Wipe/Fast Wipe
C0030-4 - Green/SlateGrey - Power from Aux Relay
C0030-5 - Red/Green - Looks to be a speed control connection.

It's hard to tell to be honest, you'd really need to sit down with RAVE and the electrical circuit diagram and the operation description to make head or tail of it.

Sounds like a faulty Diff Lock switch to me.
Most of the D2 models till late 03 model year use a version of firmware on the SLABS ECU that when diff-lock is detected puts the ABS and Traction Control systems into a lower response mode. Late model vehicles came with factory fit diff-lock linkages as a option, and the firmware was revised to allow this to operate in conjunction with the traction control.
Therefore ABS and TC illuminating (but with no HDC) means your TC/ABS is in the lower performing mode, and your diff-lock may be in, but more likely the £12 switch has broken, and needs replacing. It's a bugger of a job, and can be done from underneath the vehicle (did mine this way) the switch is p/no PRC2911, and just unscrews. It's located just behind the diff-lock stud above where the front prop fits.
Your options are thus:
1) Remove the front prop. Work blind and try and change it by feel alone. Helps if you can clean the area off before too, don't want any rubbish falling in the box! Unplug & Undo the switch, IIRC it's a 12mm head, and a stubby spanner is the tool for the job. Remove, swap the lower nut from the old switch to the new one (important for the length) and put back in. Don't do up too tight, or it may shear off (as my friend did 2 days after I did mine! He kept tightening it...) Pop the connections on and the front prop and the fault should go away. You could also just disconnect the switch if you want. IIRC open circuit is no-diff lock anyway, but if that's not correct then make up a link with some spade connectors and link it out then.
2) Remove the centre console, drill the rivets and attack from above. Same tools needed, just you can see what you're doing.
I favoured Option 1. YMMV!

Your whirring noise and loss of power may indicate the diff-lock is engaging occasionally and may indicate damage to the transfer box.

Loosen the clips holding the coolant hoses and release them, remove the throttle body by undoing the 4 bolts holding it to the plenum chamber. Discard the gasket & fit a new one on refit. (This is after removing the intake hose, and disconnecting the throttle & cruise control cables. Then undoing the clip securing the breather hose and the multiplug).

This is your best choice.Here is a diagram attached.

Sounds like a faulty Diff Lock switch to me.
Most of the D2 models till late 03 model year use a version of firmware on the SLABS ECU that when diff-lock is detected puts the ABS and Traction Control systems into a lower response mode. Late model vehicles came with factory fit diff-lock linkages as a option, and the firmware was revised to allow this to operate in conjunction with the traction control.
Therefore ABS and TC illuminating (but with no HDC) means your TC/ABS is in the lower performing mode, and your diff-lock may be in, but more likely the £12 switch has broken, and needs replacing. It's a bugger of a job, and can be done from underneath the vehicle (did mine this way) the switch is p/no PRC2911, and just unscrews. It's located just behind the diff-lock stud above where the front prop fits.
Your options are thus:
1) Remove the front prop. Work blind and try and change it by feel alone. Helps if you can clean the area off before too, don't want any rubbish falling in the box! Unplug & Undo the switch, IIRC it's a 12mm head, and a stubby spanner is the tool for the job. Remove, swap the lower nut from the old switch to the new one (important for the length) and put back in. Don't do up too tight, or it may shear off (as my friend did 2 days after I did mine! He kept tightening it...) Pop the connections on and the front prop and the fault should go away. You could also just disconnect the switch if you want. IIRC open circuit is no-diff lock anyway, but if that's not correct then make up a link with some spade connectors and link it out then.
2) Remove the centre console, drill the rivets and attack from above. Same tools needed, just you can see what you're doing.
I favoured Option 1. YMMV!

Firstly, remember the TD5 is a common rail engine. It's only fuel pump (unless you have a webasto auxillary heater) is the in-tank high pressure pump. This is accessed through a panel in the boot floor.

No fuses control those lights, and while I'd ignore the service engine, check engine suggests something is wrong and should not be ignored!
You could buy yourself a nanocom or similar and reset your service light and read the fault code to tell if the check engine is an intermittent error or something potentially more serious!

Suggests a problem with the Automatic Gear box ECU, or X/Y selector switch. Can also be water in the connector as it joins the gearbox, or someone's knocked the ECU which is under the passenger seat (RHD).
Sometimes this can be cleared by stopping, turning off the ignition, and starting again and it's fine. It's alerting you that it is in 'Limp Home' mode (3)