20 Most Recent 1998 Kia Sephia - Page 7 Questions & Answers

sounds like the shift cables are corroded or seized, forcing the shift may have bent the linkage. inspect and replace the shift cables and inspect the cable bracket, bend back into shape if required :)

when you accelerate, the engine will rev higher than normal to get the car going. the only thing you can do is make sure the fluid level is correct. too little will cause problems as well as too much. check the fluid with the car running at normal operating temperature. the level should not go higher than the mark on the stick. there should be instructions engraved on the stick along with the type of fluid to use. also, if you haven't changed the fluid in a while, you should do that. other than those simple things, if your trans is slipping, it will have to be serviced. as there is some mechanical failure. here is some good info to read through.

http://www.aa1car.com/transmission.htm

If it's just a hole on steel line get a piece of rubber fuel line and 2 gas line clamps. Cut the line at the hole and clean it off with a piece of emery cloth or sandpaper. Slide the rubber hose and clamps onto one side and then over the other.Place the clamps on either side of the cut and tighten.
If it's plastic line then there is a brass compression fitting you can use. Measure the size of the line and get the fitting to match. Cut the line and clean it off. Slide one nut and the ferrule onto the line and thread it onto the union. Do the other side and tighten but not too tight or you will compress the line. Start the car and check for leaks. Tighten only until the leaking, if any, stops and quit.
Hope this helps.

One way to tell if the fan works is by turning on the AC, when you do this the fan should turn on.
If the fan works when the AC is on you may have a bad temp sensor, relay, fuse or wiring problem.
If the fan doesn't work with the AC then you would replace the whole fan unit as an assembly.
If your car doesn't have AC then you should just take it to a shop.

either there are a few bad teeth on the flywheel or the bendix drive is failing, check the flywheel for missing teeth first if not then replace the starter

the cmp sensor is mounted on the left end of the cylinder head adjacent to the left end of the exhaust camshaft

if you have a auto zone parts store they will run a scan on the car & tell you whats going on this is free
no charge to do this some info
thanks

sounds like your t.p.s. sensor is sticking
there under 30.00 dollars at autozone
that will allow you car to idle down (unless the cable is bad or the throtle is sticking but tps is generaly the cause

Check the speedometer speed sensor, normally mounted on the transmission with a connector to it.

my speedometr does not working. how can i troubleshoot it?

Clutches work on the same principle as your brakes. As they spin with high friction, they heat up. If they heat up too much, they start to smell.

Every time you depress the clutch pedal, you are allowing the clutch to spin and create heat. If you pop the clutch or drive in a stop and go environment and accelerate very hard off the line, you will generate a lot of heat in the clutch. Also, if you were hauling heavy loads or towing a trailer, you can create a lot of stress on the clutch which will cause it to heat up.

I don't know you or your driving style, so it is hard to pinpoint the cause of the smell. It sounds like the clutch is worn to the point where it is starting to slip. There is no solution to make it stop slipping except to replace the clutch. You can nurse the car along for a while, but eventually you will have to replace the clutch. Try to avoid hard acceleration and stop and go driving as much as you can. Also, make sure there is a little bit of play in the clutch pedal at the top of its stroke. There is an adjustment on the actuator rod so that the clutch can be fully engaged. If there is no play in the pedal, that could mean that the clutch is partially engaged. There would not be enough friction on the clutch to turn the transmission input shaft. This, in turn, would cause slip and heat and eventually smell and poor acceleration.

I hope this helps. It may not be the answer you wanted to hear. If you have further questions, let me know.

Clutches work on the same principle as your brakes. As they spin with high friction, they heat up. If they heat up too much, they start to smell.

Every time you depress the clutch pedal, you are allowing the clutch to spin and create heat. If you pop the clutch or drive in a stop and go environment and accelerate very hard off the line, you will generate a lot of heat in the clutch. Also, if you were hauling heavy loads or towing a trailer, you can create a lot of stress on the clutch which will cause it to heat up.

I don't know you or your driving style, so it is hard to pinpoint the cause of the smell. It sounds like the clutch is worn to the point where it is starting to slip. There is no solution to make it stop slipping except to replace the clutch. You can nurse the car along for a while, but eventually you will have to replace the clutch. Try to avoid hard acceleration and stop and go driving as much as you can. Also, make sure there is a little bit of play in the clutch pedal at the top of its stroke. There is an adjustment on the actuator rod so that the clutch can be fully engaged. If there is no play in the pedal, that could mean that the clutch is partially engaged. There would not be enough friction on the clutch to turn the transmission input shaft. This, in turn, would cause slip and heat and eventually smell and poor acceleration.

I hope this helps. It may not be the answer you wanted to hear. If you have further questions, let me know.

you'll have to drain the fuel tank and add fresh fuel and some stabilizer additive to it for the remaining gunky fuel out of the system. good luck!

Most clutches to are hydraulic assisted very much of not identical to you break system.

You have a malfunction in either the clutch piston, master cylinder, or line connecting the two. Usually this is very simple to diagnosis and fix. Closer inspection should lead you to the offending part, replace, fill with fluid and bleed off the air that will be in the line. .

check all your fues with test light look for any blown fuse

I am not familiar with this engine. But, if the alternator, PAS and AC are being driven by the same belt, then its possible that the belt is too slack, have you checked the belt tension ? That would be my first step. Hope that helps

Hey there!
I'm going to post this as an answer, but...I suspect that the problem is the spark! Not that you don't have spark but the spark plu gap may not be set correctly. Note they don't come pre-gapped from the manufacturer. You may want to pull the plugs, ( one at a time as not to miss place the firing order for reinstallation of the leads ). Measure what it was and set them to fac. spec. ( 0.xx? ). A guess but probably 0.42". I am suspecting you will measure it at 0.65" too much!!

If that that turns out for you please let me know. ASH

That or your intake manifold hose could have a split in it or have your mass air flow sensor checked. IT could even be as simple as a good tune up.Hope this helped please rate me! GOOD LUCK

Just because the lights go on and the radio plays does not mean you have full power.
Many things can keep a car from starting, and the cold makes them worse.
Did you try jump starting?
And most importantly did you crank the engine for maore than a minute at a time? That means you have flooded the engine with gas.
To fix this, jump the car while holding the gas pedal to the floor. Do this 4 times at 20-30 seconds each.
Then try and start without holding gas pedal.